For the cost of the smaller set 34.95 you could BUY and OWN an inexpensive soldering iron,crimping plier, flux, more connectors than come with the set and youll ever need, a couple rolls of electrical tape, heat shrink tubing and have money left over.
As far as the quality of the connector set you referenced in your link I have no idea. And according to the directions given you better be experienced with applying heat and connections besides the fact that they say" you must seperate the individual wires to make to proper connection" what a PITA.
Soldering and connecting wires is a simple, quick task an can be learned very quickly an easily by anyone.
Freightliner factory warranty requires using something like that. Use the uninsulated crimp connectors to join the wires, then put those over the splice and then they want you to use another heat shrink over that (overkill?). The uninsulated crimp connector has a small hole in the side, allowing the solder to melt into the wires inside. Also recommended to not touch the bare wires after stripping them, so the oils/dirt on your hands do not cause contamination of the splice.
I'd definitely use those that you found, unless you are going to use a solder iron and solder then heatshrink. Either way, as long as the solder holds the splice secure, it is a better splice than plain crimp connectors like many seem to like to use...
1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy
I don't really like those. My little butane torch (something like the one they show) always wants to overheat the plastic causing it to split so I gave up on them quickly.
I like to solder the connections put together like shown or use a plain crimp connector, then solder that and then slide the waterproof heatshrink over that joint. They make a waterproof heatshrink with glue in it for automotive use vs the plain stuff for electronic use. If all I have is the electronic heatshrink, then I use dielectric grease inside it before shrinking.
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
I have those to and don't like them.
I prefer soldering .. Old wire is sometimes corroded and the tin does not stick so good then. when you use these thing you'r not sure you have a solid connection.
When soldering and the tin does not stick you can clean up the wire with sandpaper, solder and inspect the connection again.