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Unread 11-27-2011, 08:14 AM   #16
78FordF150
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By cutting this axle down will you still have to outboard the springs?

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Unread 11-27-2011, 08:23 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78FordF150 View Post
By cutting this axle down will you still have to outboard the springs?
No. That is one of the reasons why I am cutting the long side tube.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 08:44 AM   #18
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The Waggy axle shaft is 3.5" shorter than the GM. If the spring location isn't changed, the axle won't be centered. I don't remember what side sticks out further, but there is approximately a 1" difference, I think its the long side.

Bill
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Unread 11-27-2011, 09:06 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
The Waggy axle shaft is 3.5" shorter than the GM. If the spring location isn't changed, the axle won't be centered. I don't remember what side sticks out further, but there is approximately a 1" difference, I think its the long side.

Bill
It is the long side perch that needs to be moved.

You can't take 3.5in off one side and have the axle centered under the Jeep without moving the perch to compensate for it.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 09:10 AM   #20
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Don't get totally caught up in using the Waggy axle. Moser and Dutchman will both cut down your too long original Chevy axle, the price isn't bad. They give you a beak if you do 2, so you have a spare; I did and have never needed the spare, but I have it. It was only about $125 for 2, years ago.

To keep it centered, not have to outboard and only cut one side, you start with the long side spring perch placement...27.5" over from the cast in perch, then measure over how much to match the 'C' on the other side. Don't over-think it.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 09:54 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John N View Post
Don't get totally caught up in using the Waggy axle. Moser and Dutchman will both cut down your too long original Chevy axle, the price isn't bad. They give you a beak if you do 2, so you have a spare; I did and have never needed the spare, but I have it. It was only about $125 for 2, years ago.

To keep it centered, not have to outboard and only cut one side, you start with the long side spring perch placement...27.5" over from the cast in perch, then measure over how much to match the 'C' on the other side. Don't over-think it.
I see their point it the perch to C measurement that is going to matter. Jig it up on you springs at the pinion angle you need, weld the driver's side perch in place, measure passenger's side perch to the C and then match it on the driver's side. Then measure your axle length and cut to fit. Unless the waggy is exactly that length your driver's side wheel will be too far in or too far out. This is based on using the orginal cast in perch on the Chevy axles.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 10:12 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78FordF150 View Post
It is the long side perch that needs to be moved.

You can't take 3.5in off one side and have the axle centered under the Jeep without moving the perch to compensate for it.
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by John N View Post
Don't get totally caught up in using the Waggy axle. Moser and Dutchman will both cut down your too long original Chevy axle, the price isn't bad. They give you a beak if you do 2, so you have a spare; I did and have never needed the spare, but I have it. It was only about $125 for 2, years ago.

To keep it centered, not have to outboard and only cut one side, you start with the long side spring perch placement...27.5" over from the cast in perch, then measure over how much to match the 'C' on the other side. Don't over-think it.
This would be the best way.

I used a unchanged Waggy shaft in mine. I"ve had Moser cut shafts in the past. The key in doing this,. is the axle shaft diameter needs to be the same (where its resplined) as the orignal spline diameter. most shafts I have seen have a "step" . ( a Dana 44 shaft couldn't be shortened 2". But could be 4" as a example)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar346 View Post
I see their point it the perch to C measurement that is going to matter. Jig it up on you springs at the pinion angle you need, weld the driver's side perch in place, measure passenger's side perch to the C and then match it on the driver's side. Then measure your axle length and cut to fit. Unless the waggy is exactly that length your driver's side wheel will be too far in or too far out. This is based on using the orginal cast in perch on the Chevy axles.
I'll do some more checking on this when I get home tomorrow. The caster of the cast in perch gave me 7 degrees with factory YJ front springs.
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1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
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Unread 11-27-2011, 10:34 AM   #23
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You're meaning A Chevrolet D44 like this one I installed in my CJ?

I'll have to dig up the info on what I did when I installed it a few years ago.



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Unread 11-27-2011, 11:23 AM   #24
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Fullsize truck guys never talk about machining the spring pad for pinion/caster angle changes, they just use tapered wedge shims.

good luck with the project
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Unread 11-27-2011, 03:18 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerRick View Post
You're meaning A Chevrolet D44 like this one I installed in my CJ?

I'll have to dig up the info on what I did when I installed it a few years ago.



RangerRick


Love to have the specs on that and a breif description on what you did and why.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 03:19 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerRick View Post
You're meaning A Chevrolet D44 like this one I installed in my CJ?

I'll have to dig up the info on what I did when I installed it a few years ago.



RangerRick
How much did you cut off, what spindles/hubs/rotors did you use and what WMS to WMS did you end up with?
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Unread 11-28-2011, 06:49 AM   #27
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If I were gonna narrow a Chevy housing to fit a Waggy shaft, I'd just measure the difference between the 2 shafts and narrow the housing accordingly.

You might not need to rotate the "C"s at all. IIRC, both the Waggies and Chevy D44s have a pretty good pinion-to-caster angle from the factory. I want to say the angle between pinion/caster on my Waggy axle was somewhere around 12deg (been more than 10yrs since I narrowed it). Even tipping the housing back for 5deg of positive caster, the pinion still pointed up a good 6-7 degrees.

That would keep you from having to cut/rotate/weld the short side "C".

If you narrow the GM axle to Waggy width, you'll need to outboard the hangers.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 07:25 AM   #28
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A Chevy with 4" cut off of it and left six lug will be 63.5" wide, from wheel mount surface (WMS) to WMS. This is several inches wider than widetrack CJ width. It is close to widetrack FSJ width though.

If you convert it to five lug with Ford rotors/wheelbearing hubs it will be one inch wider due to a different offset of the WMS on the different wheelbearing hubs relative to the centerline between the inner and outer bearings. Converting to eight lug adds two inches overall.

Any 80-91 Wagoneer long side axle shaft is exactly 4" shorter than the Chevy shaft. No need for custom made axleshafts this way.

The '74-79 inners will not work as they are not the same length.

To do this swap you knock 4" off the long side, move the long side spring perch inward by 2" (stock Chevy perch to perch length is 31.5 so 2" centers the axle and is 1/2 of the 4" removed) and install the above mentioned inner axleshaft. It's that simple if its the overall width that you're looking for. There's no need to mess with the caster.

My CJ5 has this setup for the front axle.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 07:27 AM   #29
Area.3.Fiftyone
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Thanks everyone.

Lots of good information here.

My goal is to get a Dana 44 under the front without outboarding the springs and try to get as close as possible to WT Jeep width. The laws in Pa. are very strict about tires sticking out from the wheel wells and I really don't want to add massive flares to cover the tires or run wheels with tons of backspacing.

**** If I have to go through the trouble of outboarding both hangers, cutting the long side tube and axle I might as well just get a HP Dana 44 center section from a Ford and re-tube it. ****

Anyone have any thoughts on this instead of the Chevy axle? I'm thinking that would be a better way to go.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 07:38 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post

My CJ5 has this setup for the front axle.
That sums it up nicely.

Any pics of the CJ5 so that I can see how much wider it ends up being?

Thanks.
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