You might sit a bit shorter in the front with the spring under springs in the rear. IMO the front makes most of the different with the articulation thats needed. So why not just wait till you can afford to do both at the same time then do the whole project at once so the jeeps isnt down for the count and under the knife twice?
You won't need new spring plates but replacing the U-bolts is always a good idea. All I need to get my steering corrected when I did my SOA was a dropped pittman arm. My drag link is parallel to my tie rod and does not hit the passenger side spring when its flexed out. If you did go with some higher arched springs than stock, then high steer would be the proper way to correct the steering. The thing I love about a SOA is all the ground clearance you get with none of the knuckle dragging spring plates and U-bolts of a SUA set up. Plus the flex and ride a whole lot better.
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!
I have done both many time and here is my 2 cents.
Unless going 36's or bigger I dont think SOA is worth it. If you want to really wheel hard you need a low COG. To get a low COG on a CJ you need to cut (TJ flares or similar). Then you can run 1" lift spring or 1.5" RE SOA spring (so your springs dont go negative) and 37's or bigger. Under 36" tires there are plenty of companies that make lift kits SUA that ride really well.
If you are just street driving then by all means lift your jeep 7 inches SOA. Offroad it will be unstable and unsafe.
Low COG is good but I wheel with a buddy thats got a yota on 36's with only trimming done and axle upgrades and it doesnt compare articulation wise to my cj in that pic. On some really steep side hills I get some body roll but it takes a good amount more then that to flop. Overall I feel very stable wheeling with it setup like that. I would NEVER trade my setup now to go back to spring under. Again all my opinion tho. No right or wrong. I bet I would have flopped being spring under here.
You have 36's. Right? Like I said 36's and bigger go SOA. Under 36's go SUA. I also think its pointless to do SOA in a stock axle. They are too small especially for 36's. Also if you look in your picture your spring is bending majorly negative. Stock spring will not last long going that negative. Thats why most people go with RE 1.5in SOA springs. They dont go negative. For comparison I have seen people with 5 inches of lift on a CJ or YJ running 40's. Less lift === lower COG === More stable.
wheres a good place to get springs with little to know arch in them. i want flat springs, i can weld and im mechanically inclined pretty well. im goin from a 4 inch SUA to roughll a 5.5 inch lift SOA. so all ill need is springs, dropped pitmann arm( if mine already isnt big enough), u-blots, change my shock mount location, and will i need to throw on an SYE? or could i go for a while till i can afford it?
stock YJ springs will sit level for a while but they will start to sag. I have old man emu springs in the rear of mine and they sit perfectly flat. And the fronts are rubicon express. They designed there springs to work both ways. If you arent going to stretch it, id recommend the yj SOA springs front and rear from rubicon express. I think they are back in business again. Your going to have to get a different front spring hanger and shackle tho because the yj fronts are .5" wider then the cj. M.O.R.E (Mountain offroad) has a nice reverse shackle kit that does this for you. Also has an outboarding kit if you want to go with waggy axle, scout or full size axles for an upgrade.
It was better for me to slowly build my SoA rather than dumping it into a SuA all at once. I love how it rides now. It's much smoother. Also as stated before, it all depends on how you're going to use your jeep. Mine is mainly for trails and driving around my small hometown. Little if any highway speeds. However, she will do 70 no problem.
i'm in OP, so you can help me do my SOA!
They Cant Stop Me, Even If They Stopped Me.
Car History from 1st to Present:
-1997 Mustang V6 (Sold); -1999 Chevrolet Blazer (Sold); -2001 Chevrolet Silverado Z71 (Sold); -1999 Chevrolet Z28 Camaro; 1982 Jeep CJ-7
Not to throw a wrench into your conventional logic debate.... But here's what I've done and been very happy with the outcome:
I have the best of both worlds on my 85 CJ-7, SOA with cross-over hi-steer and flat pitman arm conversion up front on 2 1/2" lift rear CJ heavy duty military wrap springs and quick-discos for the swaybar offering mad flex and stability. I have a #9000 winch up front with V8 engine under the hood and she sits totally level. The rear is SUA with 4 1/2" lift extra long seven leaf packs and extended length shocks in the rear. I kept the rear SUA to combat axle wrap and squat. My CJ is very stable on side hills or off camber situations and quick street maneuvers while still flexing almost as good as a coil spring conversion, especially up front. I didn't want to limit my flex by using an anti-wrap bar in the rear since this is a side-effect of the extra "link". With 450 horses, SOA axle wrap and squat in the rear would have been a major problem unless I ran dump-truck springs with no flex. All this was virtually eliminated by keeping SUA out back and the ride quality is amazing.
Do you have a build thread, and would you recommend this conversion with a YJ?
Been seriously considering going all SOA, but doing it properly, so I don't want to drop 2k if there would have been a better way to lift her. You got my attention when you said soa will eliminate the ability to really flex in the rear. I never considered that being the case after an anti wrap bar.
and if you don't mind me asking, what was your final cost?