Running On Empty...
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
'gmakra' is correct,
But failed to mention you will need FILTER changes much more often for a while until the 'Crud' is cut loose and collects in the filters...
Plugged filters are never a good thing.
You will have to change the FILTER about every 500 miles for the first couple thousand miles, then about every 1,000 miles after that for about 6 months...
You should start seeing substantial cleaning in after about the first month, and it will lessen after that.
Drive the vehicle as much as you can for the first couple of months.
The heat/cool/circulation cycles will do a lot of cleaning, so keep up on those oil/filter changes!
I usually change filters every 500 miles, and change the oil at the first 500 mile mark,
Then change oil every 1,000 miles for the first 3,000 miles after that,
Then switch to a 3,000 mile oil change interval after the first 3,500 miles.
Most of the heavy sludge will be removed by then, and you will be dealing with the lighter, 'snottier' sludge after that.
Once you have about 6 months of this, your engine will be as clean as it's going to get...
'Diesel' detergents/oil will keep more of the crap in suspension, So it comes out with the oil instead of collecting on the components,
So getting it out of the engine is a good idea... That's the reason for the frequent oil changes.
Do you know how to tell when you filter is plugged up and the pump/filter hits the bypass?
You have a MECHANICAL oil pressure gauge that is sensitive enough... And this is a big *IF*...
You will see a point where the oil pressure starts to fluctuate.
This is when the oil bypass valve starts to open and close as the filter is getting plugged up.
The gauge will only do this for a short time, usually a day or so,
Then the filter will plug up to the point the bypass valve stays open all the time and the gauge won't fluctuate anymore since all the oil is bypassing the filter...
The only other way to tell is by pressure testing the filter, which the average guy can't do in a home shop or home garage.
If you suspect your filter is plugged, then by all means change it. They are cheap and easy to change!
Want to know how much crap your filter nabbed?
Weigh EACH filter that has been saturated in CLEAN oil and drained a few minutes.
Each filter will be a few grams different, so you have to weigh each one after it's sit an hour or so saturating in CLEAN oil,
Then drain it for a TIMED draining period.
This will be CLEAN oil, so you can reuse it, no real waste, but can cause a mess...
This will give you a base line for comparison for future weight.
When I did this for oil/filter testing, I wrote the date and weight in grams on the filter with a 'Sharpie' so I didn't get filters mixed up...
Then drain used filters for the same amount of time as when you drained the 'Clean' oil out of them before weighing, then weigh the filter again.
The added weight is the crap the filter cleaned out of the oil and still stuck inside.
If you are REALLY interested, you can buy a filter cutter for a few bucks and cut them apart and have a look.
I warn you, this is a MESSY OPERATION!
There is nothing quite like the sludge that comes out of an oil filter element, it's really nasty!
If you have access to an oil testing lab locally that isn't too expensive, then having the USED oil tested for 'Particulate Saturation Point' is another way to tell when the oil needs changed.
This is a pain in the butt, and usually takes a couple of weeks to find out if you actually need to change the oil or not.
Usually for fleet vehicles when you are determining optimum oil change intervals (averages) instead of just one vehicle, but it's an option if you are really OCD about things...
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