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Unread 05-11-2014, 12:35 PM   #1
Kastraelie
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1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Biloxi, Mississippi
Posts: 525
Skid plate help? Fab/Ideas?

Before I start wildly chopping welding and cussing I wanted to get as many opinions from y'all experts as possible!

I am not a fabricator by any means, which should be apparent by my current solution:



Now, I have learned a bunch during my frame-off and I can't be completely blamed for this error in engineering...well actually I can and probably deserve it...but I want to get it fixed now!

As y'all can see, I have a TH350 mated to a NP208. I am not sure about the adapter, it looks like cast iron, and it doesn't bolt to the cross member--it just sits on two rubber bushings which I haven't been able to identify (or anyone at a parts store) thus far.

I'm thinking that perhaps a stock skid plate might be compatible...I would just have to find some alternative rubber bushings that sit flat instead of "grab" the crossmember. They would have to be good...my motor shakes like crazy at low RPM with it's current cam. Any other ideas?

My current idea is just to "fab" up some new angle iron that remove some of the drop, but I don't like this idea because if the skid hits anything then it will just make the bolts tear the frame up.

Are there any fabricators out there reading this that can help solve my problem with something custom?

Thanks!


P.S. This is a picture of my current cross member out of the Jeep: http://i.imgur.com/eZ65ZcX.jpg

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Unread 05-11-2014, 12:58 PM   #2
hutch1200
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I think I understand your dilemma correctly. This is off the wall, so I take NO responsibility for it. But, my buddy has a built 360 & TH400 and he used....hockey pucks and a drill press. He fabbed up brackets to hold the trans/TC in any place he could get a bolt into. People laughed, it isn't pretty, but it worked for him, & they never loosened up. Good luck, & I hope somebody comes up w/a better idea!
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Unread 05-11-2014, 01:10 PM   #3
Mike Romain
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Lol, our safety inspection book up here specifically says No hockey pucks allowed...

I would dry fit the stock plate to see if the bolts will fit onto it and if so I might use it.. You need to be aware that changing the height of the skid plate changes the angles on the rear u-joints. If you are set properly now, you may have to add or change axle perch shims. Unless you have a CV joint the u-joints have to run parallel. If you have a CV, the diff still has to point directly at the t-case.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 05-11-2014, 01:16 PM   #4
Kastraelie
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1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Biloxi, Mississippi
Posts: 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by hutch1200 View Post
I think I understand your dilemma correctly. This is off the wall, so I take NO responsibility for it. But, my buddy has a built 360 & TH400 and he used....hockey pucks and a drill press. He fabbed up brackets to hold the trans/TC in any place he could get a bolt into. People laughed, it isn't pretty, but it worked for him, & they never loosened up. Good luck, & I hope somebody comes up w/a better idea!
Yeah I'm leaning that direction xD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Lol, our safety inspection book up here specifically says No hockey pucks allowed...

I would dry fit the stock plate to see if the bolts will fit onto it and if so I might use it.. You need to be aware that changing the height of the skid plate changes the angles on the rear u-joints. If you are set properly now, you may have to add or change axle perch shims. Unless you have a CV joint the u-joints have to run parallel. If you have a CV, the diff still has to point directly at the t-case.
Thank you very much for the heads up! I am prepared for the enormous headache this is going to be. I probably will have to adjust the engine mounts to keep a nice slope on everything as well. I have a custom CV shaft now, which I will probably have to throw out...the rear diff I am going to reclock.

I figured I would start with the skid plate then fix everything inbetween.
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