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Unread 01-07-2012, 09:35 PM   #46
TxJeeper20
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I have read a little on paints and dont want to start a new thread if you guys have some know how. what is the price difference for a metallic paint versus enamel?

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Unread 01-08-2012, 12:24 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxJeeper16 View Post
I have read a little on paints and dont want to start a new thread if you guys have some know how. what is the price difference for a metallic paint versus enamel?
That's like asking the price difference between Chevy and Ford. There are too many variables to give a specific answer.

I do know metallic paints are more difficult to touchup than a solid color.

Can anyone answer my question, above, about undercoats? Thanks.

Matt
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Unread 01-08-2012, 04:30 AM   #48
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Matt you have enough bare metal I would shoot epoxy primer then a 2K primer block the 2K and shoot your top coat.
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Unread 01-08-2012, 06:05 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by gmakra View Post
Matt you have enough bare metal I would shoot epoxy primer then a 2K primer block the 2K and shoot your top coat.
Thanks, I was afraid of that. I was hoping to get by with two steps, like I did on the doors, but I didn't have any exposed metal on those.

Any recommendation on the primer? There's so many friggen choices with this stuff, it's a little mind-boggling.

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Unread 01-08-2012, 10:55 PM   #50
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Where are you buying paint? Do you have access to Nason? I used Nason 2k sandable primer (made by DuPont) on my '70 and 5 years later I am still rust free. Purchased it at Oreilly Auto Parts. It is super resistant to fuel and oil and has taken a ton of trail abuse. There are spots where my paint has been scratched, but the primer held up. I even stuffed my rear tire into the fender one time and creased the rear quarter at a 90deg angle and the primer bent around the crease without cracking. Sands super easy. VERY reasonbly priced, too.

Just my $.02, but after messing around with painting a couple vehicles now, I have adopted a process where fillers/glaze never touch bare metal. Once I have made my metal repair, I sand everything down to 300 grit, shoot a coat of Nason 2k primer, THEN apply my fillers. My theory is that it adds a layer between the filler (porous, traps H20) and the metal. It is working out well on the projects I've done in this manner. YMMV.
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Unread 01-09-2012, 03:51 AM   #51
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Matt any epoxy primer will do. I do like Evercoat URO Fill for the 2K primer it sprays nice and sands very nice. Just watch your recoat window the epoxy primer will have it listed in thier instructions (usually about 4 hours)
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Unread 01-09-2012, 05:00 AM   #52
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Jay,

Thanks for the input. I'm buying Sherwin Williams products, since that's the closest auto paint supply to me. I used their Dimension series sealer and their Ultra One single stage paint on my half doors and I was happy with the result. Of course, I should be at $100/quart for the paint!!

Gmakra, I figured there can't be much difference in epoxy primers, so I'll get whatever they have at Sherwin Williams. I'd like to try the Evercoat primer, however, because I've been using the Evercoat Metal Glaze and have been very impressed with it.

Well, I'm off to town this morning to gather supplies. It's a 3-hour round trip from the boonies where I live. With any luck, I'll get back in time to set up my paint booth this afternoon, and be spraying tomorrow!!

Matt
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Unread 01-09-2012, 08:48 AM   #53
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I spoke with the manager of my local Sherwin Williams Auto Paint store about the undercoating question.

He said, if it were his, he'd use their best epoxy primer over everything, skip the sealer, and spray their best quality, Genisis brand, paint over the epoxy. To him, the sealer was "overkill" and he'd rather put the money into the best quality final coat.

Decisions.....

Matt
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Unread 01-09-2012, 08:56 AM   #54
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OMG $100/qt is insane for a white color. You could definitely shop that price around in other brands. You do know it's going to take about 7 qts to do the body inside and out, yes?

Don't use any brand other than Evercoat for filler, though.

The reason you spray primer over epoxy is so that you can provide a sandable surface. You are going to have minor imperfections in the feather edge of your filler that will show through the epoxy, but epoxy isn't sandable. You need some type of surfacer between the epoxy and the topcoat.
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Unread 01-09-2012, 08:58 AM   #55
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Matt,
I am kinda in the same boat with my painting project. I am going with SW products as well and have bare metal spots that in need to cover. I will call my local SW to see what they say and we can compare notes.
I would also say that you should get your parts out of the elements to cut down on the risk of rust forming. Other than that, I can't wait to see the final product

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Originally Posted by Matt1881CJ7 View Post
I spoke with the manager of my local Sherwin Williams Auto Paint store about the undercoating question.

He said, if it were his, he'd use their best epoxy primer over everything, skip the sealer, and spray their best quality, Genisis brand, paint over the epoxy. To him, the sealer was "overkill" and he'd rather put the money into the best quality final coat.

Decisions.....

Matt
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Unread 01-09-2012, 09:03 AM   #56
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SJM85CJ7,

Great. I'll hang for a few, if you plan on making that call soon?

BTW, I just set the body parts outdoors for the picture, then promptly but them back inside. Trust me, after all that work sanding off the rot, I'm taking every precaution to keep it dry before paint.

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Unread 01-09-2012, 09:08 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayhawkclint View Post
OMG $100/qt is insane for a white color. You could definitely shop that price around in other brands. You do know it's going to take about 7 qts to do the body inside and out, yes?

Don't use any brand other than Evercoat for filler, though.

The reason you spray primer over epoxy is so that you can provide a sandable surface. You are going to have minor imperfections in the feather edge of your filler that will show through the epoxy, but epoxy isn't sandable. You need some type of surfacer between the epoxy and the topcoat.
I guess it's a matter of perspective, and wallet size, on the cost of the paint. Everything I'm reading is the quality makes a huge difference in looks, and more importantly, durability. The Genesis brand is SW's fleet paint, and is suppose to be almost bullet-proof.

As for quantity of paint, I'm getting mixed reports on that. Most guys seem to be using 3-4 quarts for the entire tub. I'm going to buy a gallon, to start out with, and see how far that gets me.

Matt
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Unread 01-09-2012, 09:13 AM   #58
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Matt....are you going to line the tub?
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Unread 01-09-2012, 09:18 AM   #59
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Matt....are you going to line the tub?
That's another one I'm torn on.

I don't care for the heavy texture of most of the liners, and I'm concerned it will make future repairs, if needed, more difficult. That, and I don't want to stray too far from original.

Is yours lined? If so, with what, and how do you like it?

Matt
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Unread 01-09-2012, 09:22 AM   #60
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I think it looks really clean when it's done. My tub is rust free, and I just put a new carpet kit in it.......but it's always in the back of my mind.....
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