Single or 2-stage Paint. Pros and Cons? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 131 Old 11-25-2011, 07:05 AM
Area.3.Fiftyone
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Originally Posted by TxJeeper16 View Post
I am wanting to paint my Cj And dpont have a garage but do have a shed < can i set up some plastic hanging from the shed and coat the floor and paint it in the car port part of the shed

thats if i cant find a place to paint it in lol
Go for it.

Lots of people paint their stuff outside in makeshift "booths".

Wait for a nice day, wet the floor and start shooting.




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post #32 of 131 Old 11-25-2011, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Gentleman,

I kept the gun clean, and I ran the paint thru a strainer. I used the 1.4 tip. Both the gun and the paint instructions recommended 40-45 PSI. Apparently my mistake was not having the regulator at the gun.

I think the tiny flecks will be easy enough to sand down without taking another road-trip for a nibs file. There's only about 10-12 of them and they are smaller than a grain of sand. I'll just sand them and spray again.

Hopefully, the regulator at the gun will allow me to get a fleck-free coat down.

Matt
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post #33 of 131 Old 11-25-2011, 08:42 AM
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Thanks man I got this one saved as a favorite in a folder so when I am home I will tackle this just dreading cleaning off the dust in the awning lol

I was gunna pay for the paint but after getting a 350tbi and ax-15 swap Iam not really wanting to sink more money into labor and not be able to say "hey I did this" , but a paint job is the thing everyone sees including me so I want to have some part in the resto-mod proccess lol
as for the Renegade stripes, prolly letting a pro do that

Thanks you guys for the tips

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post #34 of 131 Old 11-25-2011, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1881CJ7 View Post
I kept the gun clean, and I ran the paint thru a strainer. I used the 1.4 tip. Both the gun and the paint instructions recommended 40-45 PSI. Apparently my mistake was not having the regulator at the gun.
That seems high to me for a HVLP gun. But if that is what they put in their directions then I guess I would follow it. Is that with trigger pulled? Mine requires 26 psi with the trigger pulled which puts the pressure at the cap around 8-10 PSI.

Paul

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post #35 of 131 Old 11-25-2011, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a close-up of the orange-peel.

The photo makes it look a lot worse than it looks in person. You have to get just the right angle on the reflection to even notice it. On the bright side, there are no drips, runs, or sags.

I'm learning there's a fine line between getting enough paint on to flow smooth, but not so much that it runs or sags. It's an art for sure. I'm glad I started on the half doors to work out the kinks.

Matt
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post #36 of 131 Old 11-25-2011, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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When I pulled the inside panels off, I broke about half of the plastic push pins. Luckily, I found the correct size at my local hardware store and was able to replace all of them, today.

Another question for you paint gurus: I've heard that you shouldn't wax new paint for at least 2 months while it cures. If so, does that also apply to buffing compound? Thanks.

Matt
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post #37 of 131 Old 11-25-2011, 05:09 PM
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I realize that you already painted the doors, but if you decide to add another coat, you can mix clear coat in with the paint, you'd have to check with the manufacturer for the ratio, but it will give you the same glossy finish as a 2 stage without having to spray clear on its own. FYI though most single stage paints can be top coated with clear anyways. The doors came out great!!
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post #38 of 131 Old 11-25-2011, 05:51 PM
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I usually wait a couple of days before color sanding and buffing to ensure the paint is fully cured.

You are correct on waiting to wax, but 2 months seems a little excessive IMO.

Not true about most single stage being compatible with clear coat and not recommended. You could end up doing them all over again if the nice white paint you just layed down ends up bubbling right off in front of your eyes.

Unless the manufacture says it's ok, don't do it.

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post #39 of 131 Old 11-25-2011, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Stan,

The clear coat seems to negate one of the benefits of a single stage paint, namely ease of touchup, so I'm ruling that out.

The paint directions say to wait 24 hours before sanding/buffing. I'm going to test an area in the morning, that'll be about 30 hrs.

I can't wait to put them back together and hang them on the CJ!!

Matt
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post #40 of 131 Old 11-26-2011, 09:00 AM
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Hey Matt, after viewing your orange peel pictures on my laptop it looks like you sprayed them too dry.

I was going to comment on the air pressure you used, but someone already beat me too it.

With an HVLP gun, you need very little pressure at the tip for the paint to flow well. I would start with something a little coarser than I originally recommended like 400-600. Then spray another coat or two over them after setting the gun up on a test panel before shooting the doors.

If you get it right, the paint will flow a lot better and very little if any sanding/buffing will be necessary.

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post #41 of 131 Old 11-26-2011, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Stan,

I wish I would have read your post this morning before I tackled the wet sanding. It would have saved me a couple of sore arms, right now.

Instead, I started wet-sanding with 1000 grit, finished with 2000. Then I buffed it with compound. I got probably 99% of the finish smooth as glass, but it's nearly impossible to get some of the tight inside corners, like around the hinges.

But I stayed after it, and finally achieved a finish I was satisfied with.
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post #42 of 131 Old 11-26-2011, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Then I reinstalled the handles, inside panel and trim.

All that's left is for the new door seals to come from from Quadratec, and this project is DONE!



Matt
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post #43 of 131 Old 01-07-2012, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Hey all,

I dredged up this thread to ask another painting question.

Below are a few shots of my CJ all prepped and ready for paint. As you can see, I've got paint, primer, glaze, and exposed metal spots all to cover up.

My question is, what is the proper undercoat process. Would a good 2K acrylic urethane sealer suffice, or do I need to epoxy primer first, then sealer, then color coat?

Thanks,

Matt
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post #44 of 131 Old 01-07-2012, 04:20 PM
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Wow bro.......
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post #45 of 131 Old 01-07-2012, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Wow bro.......
Tell me about it. I hope I remember how it all goes back together.

Where's Stan the Paint Man when I need him....

Matt
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