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Old 11-22-2009, 02:12 AM   #1
mcurcio1989
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should i put the sway bar on?

So i picked up and installed a set of wide track axles for the cj (it had narrow track) of course along with that came a couple extra goodies. In summary. The axles have 48k on them, came with sway bar and steering dampener, also has discs up front (i had drums), and has the smaller drums in the back. I am very pleased with them instal was not to bad. This vehicle is my dd and sees moderate wheeling every once and a while.

I have a few questions for you guys. I got the axles put in exactly as they would have been before. So no sway bar or steering dampener.

The steering dampener shock was shot. I do have all the brackets tho so would that make a worthwhile difference? ie. should i get a new shock for it and put it in?

How about the sway bar? how much of a difference will i notice if i put that on?

Should i swap out the 5 bolt stock lockout hubs on the front for my 6 bolt warn lockout hubs? I have heard the six bolt setup is superior.

How about brakes in the back. Would there be any point in me swapping my larger drums in to the rear. I was going to do it but i couldn't pull the hub it was just to stuck. the brakes on the new axles don't have the parking brake and also are a lot less clean then my old ones.

thanks

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I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:54 AM   #2
Mike Romain
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The anti sway bar is a nice safety feature to have for road driving. It really helps with the roll factor in corners.

If the new axles are a matched set, then the braking power front/rear split should be right. You will need to rebuild the back brakes by the sounds of things, that emergency or parking brake has saved my butt more than once over the years when lines have let go or the master has failed.

You will also need a disk/drum brake master cylinder. The standard drum/drum one won't work as is. There are valves that can maybe be changed inside it to maybe make it work. The Master has a backpressure valve in it that is different for drums and disks.
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Old 11-22-2009, 08:14 AM   #3
GPER
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If you are going to change the master cylinder anyway, I would do the YJ power brake swap. I used the a 90 YJ booster and master cylinder and it is night and day difference.

As far as the sway bar, we all have our opinions about it. It boils down to the suspension you run, then the extra of the sway bar if you want.
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Old 11-22-2009, 08:33 AM   #4
mcurcio1989
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Hey mike, remember that 50 post thread about "weird brake problem"? That was me so i have the yj mc and booster functioning correctly i took out the in line rv for the front circuit so i should be good to go as far as fluid stuff goes. I put in new wheel cylinders in the back. The shoes look almost brand new and the rest of the stuff inside isn't to bad. Its just missing the arm that the parking brake cable connects to in there.

So how much roll do you think it would cut down. That wuld be really nice cause the roll is annoying. I just had this feeling i was gonna spend forever putting it in and then it will hardly do anything.
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I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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Old 11-22-2009, 08:57 AM   #5
mcktiger
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i feel the swaybar was one of the better mods for me. but as was stated earlier dependes on your lift.mine has a 4" lift and feels like your in a boat when quick disc. are not connected. just more secure feel to it.
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:10 AM   #6
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcurcio1989 View Post
So how much roll do you think it would cut down. That wuld be really nice cause the roll is annoying. I just had this feeling i was gonna spend forever putting it in and then it will hardly do anything.
It cuts down a Lot of roll, that is why folks get quick disconnects for them, so you have the free wheel travel when off road.
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:11 AM   #7
mcurcio1989
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Yeah I am not sure how much lift mine has. I believe it has around 2" but i am not sure. I have compared it to pictures of stock cj's and it Definately seems to sit higher. Regardless tho it definately has a good deal of sway on the turns so i will definitely be putting that in asap.

Btw what is your guys opinions on good shocks for the cj? Itsx weird because a couple weeks ago i blew a shock (it drained out) I have not noticed any change in how it drives. Obviously i need to replace that tho. How come it doesn't seem to make a difference tho? It doesn't have the bounces going or anything. . .
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:15 PM   #8
mcurcio1989
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So i got all the brake lines hooked up. Had to rent the tool to flange the lines in a couple places. So i took it out for a cruise. As of now their are two issues. The steering is very tight. Like it needs some lubrication or something. It does not straighten itself out or anything. When the axle was off the vehicle i could tell the joints weren't moving very freely but hoped they would loosen up once i drove it a little bit. I am not sure there going to what can i do to loosen that up?

Next issue is that the rotors have a little deeper rust than i initially thought. I am thinking about replacing those. While i am in there i kind of want to put my warn hubs of off my old axle. Will the 76 dana 30 axle hubs with drum brakes fit this 84 dana 30? I would like to have the 6 bolt hubs on there and have my warn hubs instead of the crappy stock ones.
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I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:42 PM   #9
Mike Romain
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Someone just did something like that very recently on this forum and if I remember right, the hub fit on the spindle. It, the thread was within a week or so I think, but am not sure.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:57 PM   #10
mcurcio1989
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yeah i read that the spindle should fit i just was not sure about the compatibility of the hub from the drum and the hub from the disc. I have never had those apart so i just don't know. Thanks, i will look for that thread

What about that tight steering stuff? any ideas on that? that's my biggest concern at the moment because it gets kinda weird when it doesn't straighten itself out.
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I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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Old 11-22-2009, 08:02 PM   #11
Mike Romain
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That's what I meant, the hub will fit on the spindle if I remember right.
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Old 11-22-2009, 08:06 PM   #12
Mike Romain
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Steering. it was sitting and is unknown for use. I would jack up the front and turn the tires to the side and see how hard the axle is to hand spin. A seized up axle u-joint can cause your symptoms.
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Old 11-22-2009, 10:15 PM   #13
mcurcio1989
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yeah i think you are right about that seized up axle u joint. When its jacked up with the, hubs unlocked, in 2wd, and straight (nothing restricting the axles from turning) the axles spin very easily. However when i turn the wheel all the way its nearly impossible to turn them.

So how tricky are those to replace. my other ones are fine so could i swap those in. I think i am going to swap the hub and probably replace rotors so ill just about be there. I have no clue how to replace those they look pressed in but it seems like it would be easier to swap my old ones in.

This may be a bad idea but could i put it in 4wd on some dirt and turn as much as possible. It seems like that would either free these up or just break something. not ure what thats something would be.
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I have a dana 30 front axle and amc 20 rear if anyone is looking. Both are 3.54, drums, narrowtrack.
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:07 PM   #14
VACJ7
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I just replaced the axle u-joints on my D30 and it was pretty easy. Hardest part was removing the rusted c-clips. The rest of the job was like replacing driveshaft u-joints.
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:15 AM   #15
W7NB
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I finally ditched the sway bar. Yes it helps with body roll and a little with wander, but for some reason every time I wanted to reconnect the bar I couldn't find a mud free or dry place to do it, so I'd run on the pavement with it disconnected. Got used to being without it and I have never gone back.
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