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Unread 05-09-2013, 01:05 PM   #31
Turtle71
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Ok. Had a little bit of time to try some things. Given the symptoms it has showed so far, I decided to skip right to checking the water pump. I pulled the top hose off the radiator and cranked the engine and let it warm up. Within 5 minuted or less the temp gauge got almost to the end of the green line towards the H. The most coolant flow I saw was maybe a trickle, if that.

This definitely means the water pump is bad right? I just want to cover all my bases and not miss anything. If I will be changing the water pump, I will probably pull the radiator to do a flow check as well.

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Unread 05-09-2013, 01:10 PM   #32
Matt1981CJ7
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Yes, assuming there's no blockage, and the thermostat has been tested good, and is installed correctly.

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Unread 05-09-2013, 01:27 PM   #33
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle71 View Post
Ok. Had a little bit of time to try some things. Given the symptoms it has showed so far, I decided to skip right to checking the water pump. I pulled the top hose off the radiator and cranked the engine and let it warm up. Within 5 minuted or less the temp gauge got almost to the end of the green line towards the H. The most coolant flow I saw was maybe a trickle, if that.

This definitely means the water pump is bad right? I just want to cover all my bases and not miss anything. If I will be changing the water pump, I will probably pull the radiator to do a flow check as well.
99% the last test to know for sure would be to pull the tstat out and see if you got flow at the TSTAT housing. I will almost bet my life you wont. So if you get no flow out of the thermostat housing with the thermostat out yes its your water pump.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 07:04 PM   #34
Turtle71
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I decided to go ahead and check the temp sending unit. I am wondering if it is actually getting too hot in under 2 minutes like the gauge reads. If it is not, then maybe thats why I am not seeing any flow from the top hose. So I cranked it and let it warm up. Gauge went right up next to the H within 2 minutes...and this is what I got. Crappy iPhone pics below.

Lead to ground

Lead to sender post

Meter reading .1 ?
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Unread 05-09-2013, 07:11 PM   #35
Turtle71
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I am new to testing electrical stuff, but followed the directions on the John Strenk page. Also listed on the page are readings you might see for various temps.
C (cold)........................ 130 degrees--73 ohms
Beginning of band........ 171 degrees--36 ohms
Top of band.................. 242 degrees--13 ohms
H (hot).......................... 270 degrees---9 ohms

So how am I supposed to look at the ".1" I got on my meter???
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Unread 05-09-2013, 08:45 PM   #36
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Try putting your meter to 200 Ohm (instead of 200k Ohm) and try again. With the setting as you have it, you are reading 1000's of Ohms, rounded to the nearest hundred. So your 0.1 represents anywhere between 50 and 149 Ohm. But it's also at the very bottom of the measurable range for that setting, so I wouldn't trust it.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 09:01 PM   #37
Turtle71
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Ah ok. Wasnt sure what to set the dial to, so I was going by the directions that came with it. Will try again tomorrow. Thanks.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 10:05 AM   #38
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Ok. I just checked it again with the meter switched to 200 instead of 200k. Cranked and ran the motor for around 3 minutes which allowed the gauge to peg out to the H. Here is what it read on the meter.



So if I am reading things right, this means that my engine temp reading of 59.4 ohms is between "cold @ 73 ohms" and "beginning of band @ 36 ohms" which is listed on the page by John Strenk.
http://home.roadrunner.com/~john.str...eQuickTest.htm
Room Temp�����70 degrees�200 to 400 ohms
C (cold)........................ 130 degrees--73 ohms
Beginning of band........ 171 degrees--36 ohms
Top of band.................. 242 degrees--13 ohms
H (hot).......................... 270 degrees---9 ohms

So it would seem that it is not overheating like the gauge says after all. (Unless the gauge is bad, but I tested that already.) And since it wasnt getting up near 195, thats why I wasnt seeing any flow since the stat was closed. So now what? Is my gauge bad? Is my temp sending unit bad? What do you guys think?
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Unread 05-10-2013, 10:22 AM   #39
Matt1981CJ7
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I'd test for flow without the t-stat to confirm the pump is working, as Siva said. If so, I think you can conclude the gauge is going bad.

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Unread 05-10-2013, 10:37 AM   #40
Siva283
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To me it still looks like the pump. Pop the tstat aoit and start it up. Water should immediatly start pouring out where the tstat was. If it does bad gauge. If it doesn't bad pump.

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Unread 05-10-2013, 10:47 AM   #41
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Well, if your gauge is reading "H" while the sender is at 60 Ohms, then either the gauge is bad, or the wiring between the sender and the gauge is bad/damaged. 1st thing to check is how well your speedometer is grounded. The Temp gauge grounds through the speedo housing. See the "Good Grief, Grounds" section of Mr. Strenk's troubleshooting page for more details.
http://home.roadrunner.com/~john.str...for_cj_gau.htm

As for the sending unit, you really need to know the actual coolant temp to make any definite determination. However, based on the ~3 min running time, I'd say it's probably pretty close.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 02:26 PM   #42
Turtle71
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I think we finally got it. I did some more testing using the John Strenk page.

It states: "As long as we are under there you can check the Temp gauge. Only one test. From "A" to "S" on the Temp meter. It should read 12-21 ohms. Same as the Fuel meter from "S" to "A" ."
My temp gauge read 30ohms so something is off.

THEN I also pulled off the thermostat and housing and cranked it up. Coolant blew out everywhere!!!

YAY! Its not the water pump! And the radiator might be ok too!

I then went ahead and threw the new 195 degree stat in a pot of water and it opens as it should. Now I need to buy a third t stat gasket and sealant and figure out what to do about the gauges.

I wanted to give a big and to all you guys including John Strenk for all your help and ideas!

Anyone have any luck with the new "in cluster" gauges or have any other suggestions?
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-te...-8126919k.html
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Unread 05-10-2013, 02:45 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turtle71 View Post
I noticed recently, that my temp gauge is creeping closer to the H than it ever has. That being said, this is probably the warmest weather I have driven it in since getting it on the road. Still feeling uncomfortable with the gauge reading I decided to change the thermostat. Ran it without radiator cap to burp it and did not see any "flow" when looking in the radiator. Temp gauge went really close to the H again so I decided to shut it off. Should I be seeing movement of the coolant?
IF your run'n a 'fan-clutch', check it for side to side slop and leaks.
When was the last time you had that radiator rodded out?
Are you using a shroud? You really should.
What fan are you run'n. OEM is the best.
LG
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Unread 05-10-2013, 03:14 PM   #44
SLO_Ken
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Originally Posted by Turtle71 View Post
Anyone have any luck with the new "in cluster" gauges or have any other suggestions?
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-te...-8126919k.html
I've got the Crown fuel and temp gauges in mine. The temp gauge seems to work just fine. The fuel gauge required some adjustment to read correctly. Those adjustments can be found here
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Unread 05-10-2013, 04:34 PM   #45
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The same situation with my Jeep when I first got it. The fuel gauge did not work, and the temp gauge would peg "hot" after a couple minutes of running.
So, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and flushed the rad a couple times. Still showed it was overheating, so I starting thinking of a cracked block? or some major mechanical problem....

It was about that time I discovered this website, and noticed the John Strenk website for CJ gauges. On a whim, I tested the temp sender, and it showed it was NOT overheating. Doh! Replaced the fuel and temp gauge, and whamo.... working fuel gauge, and temp gauge showing correct temp.
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