shop hoist support - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
shadoow
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shop hoist support

I'm planning on pulling my engine this fall/winter and will need to use my chain hoist to get it loaded in my truck. My shop is a metal building with steel framework. There are 2 'beams' that run the length of the shop that are located towards the enter of the roof (see pics). The beams are shaped like a 'C' channel with rolled edges. I would hang my chain hoist such that both 'beams' would support the weight on the chain hoist. First thing I'd like to find out is whether these will support the wt. of a 258 (5-600 #) - i.e. has anyone pulled an engine (or lifted a similar load) with a chain hoist mounted in a similar fashion?
Other question is how to best mount the hoist to these beams. I was gonna use a strap wound around both beams, but there's essentially no room between the top of the beams and the roof panels.
I appreciate any insights

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post #2 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 04:29 PM
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You'd probably be fine either way, But those angled rafters would be a lot safer place to hoist from than the horizontal purlins. And you could easily get a chain or strap around them.

Matt
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post #3 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 04:56 PM
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I'd use the main roof rafter if possible. If getting under it is an issue, a section of steel beam that fits between the two center purlins cut with a matching angle on both ends with a plate welded to each end, bolt through the purlins use a good sized backer plate.
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post #4 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 05:34 PM
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Nope, no way would I'd hang a hoist on those beams. The #1 reason why I wouldn't do it is I hate ladders, I absolutely won't get on one unless there is no other way to get the job done. Ask me why?











I used to be one of those guys that was pretty fearless, thinking nothing will happen to me. Anyway it did, and it cost me a year off work and pretty much almost wiped me out financially. I'd also love to have the movement back in my now fused ankle, as I really can't run, negotiate uneven terrain well, or jump and play basketball with my kid anymore.

#2 your fixed to one location without a Gantry. It's easier to move the engine around on a Gantry or engine hoist/crane/cherry picker than to move the Jeep out of the way. I'd just go to Craigslist in your area and look for a engine hoist, I picked up a 1000 lbs engine hoist for $90. Just pulled my engine with a few days ago.

Sorry, I guess I didn't comprehend your post, I was having ladder fall flashbacks when I posted the above!

You're only wanting to lift the engine into the bed of your truck? I lifted mine easily into the back of my pickup F250 SD with the cherry picker. I easily cleared the bed by a good 18-10" and had plenty of room to set it on the pallet in the frame I built to hold the engine upright. Please be careful putting your hoist up, ladders suck!

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post #5 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 06:10 PM
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You could use the horizontal purlins within a couple of feet of the steel rafters. I would drill a hole in two of them that are parallel with each other and use a 2" shaft to span the two purlins. Hold the shaft in place with shaft collars.

I did something similar in my basement with a piece of shaft slid into two joist that were very close to the support beam. I could easily lift the entire engine, trans and transfer case with ease using a 2 ton hoist from HF. Even moving the body onto the frame was easy with the hoist.



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post #6 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
You could use the horizontal purlins within a couple of feet of the steel rafters. I would drill a hole in two of them that are parallel with each other and use a 2" shaft to span the two purlins. Hold the shaft in place with shaft collars.

I did something similar in my basement with a piece of shaft slid into two joist that were very close to the support beam. I could easily lift the entire engine, trans and transfer case with ease using a 2 ton hoist from HF. Even moving the body onto the frame was easy with the hoist.
That's a nice basement workshop!

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post #7 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 07:07 PM
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post #8 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
shadoow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
You'd probably be fine either way, But those angled rafters would be a lot safer place to hoist from than the horizontal purlins. And you could easily get a chain or strap around them.

Matt
I hear ya Matt, but unfortunately I can't get my dually positioned under those...

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I'd use the main roof rafter if possible. If getting under it is an issue, a section of steel beam that fits between the two center purlins cut with a matching angle on both ends with a plate welded to each end, bolt through the purlins use a good sized backer plate.
yea, can't use the main rafters (see above). Thanks for the suggestion on an alternate idea pb

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Nope, no way would I'd hang a hoist on those beams. The #1 reason why I wouldn't do it is I hate ladders, I absolutely won't get on one unless there is no other way to get the job done. Ask me why?

Sorry, I guess I didn't comprehend your post, I was having ladder fall flashbacks when I posted the above!

You're only wanting to lift the engine into the bed of your truck? I lifted mine easily into the back of my pickup F250 SD with the cherry picker. I easily cleared the bed by a good 18-10" and had plenty of room to set it on the pallet in the frame I built to hold the engine upright. Please be careful putting your hoist up, ladders suck!
Ouch!!! Painful to see those pics. I do have a harbor freight engine hoist, but doesn't seem like i'll have enough clearance from doing kind of a dry run with the hoist. I'll re-check to verify though
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post #9 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
You could use the horizontal purlins within a couple of feet of the steel rafters. I would drill a hole in two of them that are parallel with each other and use a 2" shaft to span the two purlins. Hold the shaft in place with shaft collars.

I did something similar in my basement with a piece of shaft slid into two joist that were very close to the support beam. I could easily lift the entire engine, trans and transfer case with ease using a 2 ton hoist from HF. Even moving the body onto the frame was easy with the hoist.
Unfortunately, the hoist has to be more toward the center between the rafters (which are approx. 15' apart) to line up with where the truck bed would be. I don't have much wiggle room with the dually...
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post #10 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 07:49 PM
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I would not make any assumptions about the structural excess those purlins and rafters may or may not have. The members were not designed with this additional variable point load. We can not tell via pictures the distances these are spanning or their size to even roughly ballpark a load. Therefore the best any of us can do is guess. Relying on a failed guess could be costly!
As was said, I'd go the gantry crane or hoist direction, unless you can talk to the designer of the building.

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post #11 of 19 Old 09-17-2017, 08:26 PM
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Valid point on the working loads. Check here for span table and 'dead' loads:
http://www.flexospan.com/products_cees1.htm

Having them tied together as mentioned will act as 'bridging' and reduce any tendency to fold

Being in Ft worth, your building codes may have lower loads minimums and allow thinner purlins than I'm used to in Michigan.
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post #12 of 19 Old 09-18-2017, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puppybreath View Post
Valid point on the working loads. Check here for span table and 'dead' loads:
http://www.flexospan.com/products_cees1.htm

Having them tied together as mentioned will act as 'bridging' and reduce any tendency to fold.

That's your best bet on determining whether the purlins can take the weight you intend to lift.
Since most roof systems using purlins or trusses are built for compression loads (load from top) as opposed to tension loads (load from bottom). Anything else is just a guess.

I think I would have asked the builders of my shop that my intentions were to lift with a hoist and let them put the appropriate structural members in place beforehand. I think they would have just doubled-up on the purlins in that area. You still might be able to do that. Purchase two extra CEE channel purlins of the same size and slide them into place and create an 'I" beam so to speak.

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post #13 of 19 Old 09-18-2017, 07:25 AM
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If your roof was designed for the snow loads we get here in Colorado, I'd say go for it. But I doubt it was in Texas.

Surely you could borrow, or rent, a cherry picker from someone. No?

Or, do you have a tractor with a loader? That's what I used to load and unload mine.

Matt
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post #14 of 19 Old 09-18-2017, 12:20 PM
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Personally, I would not try to lift anything of substantial weight from the roof beams. That puts a lot of load onto a very small area. And you've got leverage issues between the supports.

Get/Rent a cherry picker. If you were closer, you could borrow mine as it's been sitting un-used for the past 12 years.

Next best would be to get a movable gantry. Harbor Freight sells them at a reasonable price, if you plan on making it an addition to your tool arsenal.

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post #15 of 19 Old 09-18-2017, 01:08 PM
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I worked in a factory that they added hoists supported by roof members that were not originally designed for that use. Most roof structures are designed with a limited static load rating, that is changed depending on the area they will be used in. Structures in northern area have a greater roof load rating to accommodate winter snow load. The result was that the hoists put stress and movement into the roof structure, the result was multiple leaks throughout the factory. Best Idea would be to use the vertical members to support tracks that run the length of the building, then run another beam between them to support the hoist. This way the load is only on the vertical supports and you will allow you to use the hoist anywhere in the shop.
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