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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Shock/Spring Question
What makes for a rougher ride, stiff shocks or worn out springs?
I replaced my shocks in the CJ with Pro Comp ES 3000s about 200 miles ago. I don't really drive the jeep that much, so that was about 3 months ago. However, it still has what I assume to be the original springs. It does not take bumps very well. It is very jarring. No sustained bouncing, just very rough on bumps. Is it just too stiff shocks or is it the old springs?
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Orange 82 CJ-7 I-6, T-5, HEI, Weber 38 Eagle Alloys, 31X10.50s |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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I don't know enough about springs and shocks to help you, but here is one thread about new springs.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/new-lift-too-stiff-210444/ John |
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#3 |
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Web Wheeler
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ES3000's are comparable to Rancho RS5000's...too much valving for a light vehicle IMHO having owned both.
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'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers. '83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff. http://www.jeepskate.net |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Hmmmmmmmm.........Remove the shocks and test drive? Better? Same? Process of elimination.
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#5 |
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Registered User
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That would work if I had a spare set of shocks lying around.
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Orange 82 CJ-7 I-6, T-5, HEI, Weber 38 Eagle Alloys, 31X10.50s |
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#6 |
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Web Wheeler
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No, like jeepdaddy2000 suggested remove your shocks. See how it rides without them. It won't hurt anything.
True Story: A friend of mine purchased a 2000 1/2 ton Chevy 4x4 truck. It had 12 shocks (3 each corner). Man you talk about a rough ride!!!! He loved the look of all that stuff, so I suggested he drill a small hole in the bottom of all the (nonstock) shocks and empty out the oil and gas charge. It goes down the road like a Caddy now, or close to it. Oh, back to subject... worn out spring will flex easier then new, so the ride would be softer. You do have to remember it's a Jeep with four left springs which naturally ride stuffer then a coil spring suspension. Even the so called soft ride suspension kits are rough. You can try a couple of things, yes a littler shock may help, or remove the bottom left in the spring packs. That will allow the spring to flex more.
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80' CJ7, 360 Howell Injected, 3" single exhaust, NP435 4spd, Dana 300 AA clocking ring, Currie twin stick, Tera-Low 4 -1 kit, Dana 44 front, cut 10" wider to 63", 4.10 gears, ARB, Yukon axles and Super H/D u-joints, Currie Dana 44 rear, cut wider to 60 1/2", 4.10 gears, ARB 35 spline, Currie 35 spline axle shafts, 2 1/2" x 11" Ford drum brakes, CJ-SOA conversion, Tom Woods F & R drive shafts, Warn 9500i winch, 6 point cage, Homemade F&R bumpers and tire carrier, 1" body, Pro Comp supension Kit, 12.5x35x15 BFG's, 15x10 OMF beadlocks, Body armor, OBA. |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Thanks. I don't expect a Caddy like ride, but these things are pretty harsh.
I wonder if they would be smoother on my WJ, since it is heavier. I may just scrap these shocks. Any suggestions on a sturdy, smoother riding shock that will be rarely used off road?
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Orange 82 CJ-7 I-6, T-5, HEI, Weber 38 Eagle Alloys, 31X10.50s |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Sorry jeepdaddy.
I guess I am an idiot. The whole concept of shocks not doing actually supporting the CJ completely escaped me.
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Orange 82 CJ-7 I-6, T-5, HEI, Weber 38 Eagle Alloys, 31X10.50s |
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#9 |
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Web Wheeler
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There's a few ways we can do this. A reverse shackle kit and a YJ spring conversion.
The shackle kit moves the pivot point to the rear of the spring allowing it to roll over bumps rather the bounch. The YJ springs are longer and wider also allowing more flex, a smoother ride. Shocks, go to Pep Boys or what ever decent parts store is near you and get some cheapy shocks. The cheaper you go the smoother the ride (less firm).
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80' CJ7, 360 Howell Injected, 3" single exhaust, NP435 4spd, Dana 300 AA clocking ring, Currie twin stick, Tera-Low 4 -1 kit, Dana 44 front, cut 10" wider to 63", 4.10 gears, ARB, Yukon axles and Super H/D u-joints, Currie Dana 44 rear, cut wider to 60 1/2", 4.10 gears, ARB 35 spline, Currie 35 spline axle shafts, 2 1/2" x 11" Ford drum brakes, CJ-SOA conversion, Tom Woods F & R drive shafts, Warn 9500i winch, 6 point cage, Homemade F&R bumpers and tire carrier, 1" body, Pro Comp supension Kit, 12.5x35x15 BFG's, 15x10 OMF beadlocks, Body armor, OBA. |
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#10 | |
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Registered User
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SkyJacker shocks are some of the softest valved. Rancho 9000's can be valved any way you want. Edelbrock performer IAS are very good once you add some accessories to increase the weight a little. I know this is going to sound odd but I swapped over to heavy steel wheels several years ago. My first wheels were M/T Aluminum wheels. I kept thinking I wasn't getting the droop I should have and swapped to the heavy wheels to add some wieght, it worked like a champ but an interesting side affect was the jeep felt much less bouncy on the road. I wasn't expecting that and don't really know the reason.
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BlueJeep BLUE JEEP CLUB MEMBER #156 84' Caribean Blue Laredo w/ black leather interior Frame off restore 6 years ago 7 inch lift w/ 34" TRXUS MT DANA 44 front Solid axle converted Model 20 rear AMC 360 / T-400 / Model 300 transfer case SOLD but never forgotten Quote:
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