my jeep has about a 1 inch shackle lift and about a 2 inch spring lift. It wanders pretty bad and I had an alignment and they said the castor was about -1. I bought a 6 degree axle shim and when I put it in it is thick enough that the peg that goes from the spring into the spring perch on the axle does not even go through the shim.
Is there anything I can do about this.
would it be a problem to just bolt it all together and just run it like this
No you need the pin to keep the axle from moving front to back. I can only imagine you hitting the brakes and the axles sliding back the spring lol. I believe you should be able to get longer pins at most auto parts stores. They should be cut to fit.
is replacing the pin what most people do?
How is the pin hooked to the spring?
More information about my shim: the skinny end is about 1/4" thick and the thick end is about 3/8" thick. The shim is a rancho aluminum one. It was advertised as a universal shim. It was 2.5" wide and I used it on the front of the CJ so I had to cut about 1/4" off each side to fit between the U bolts. I think if the skinny end of the shim came to a point instead of being 1/4" thick then the thick end could be a little thinner than it is and it could still have the same degree angle and the whole shim would be thinner.
The spring pin is basically a bolt with a round head to fit in the perch.. to positively locate the axle to the spring.
Most factory pins that I've seen have relatively short "heads". I think ideally, you wouldn't want the length of the pin head to be much longer than its diameter. So.. if you had say, a 1/2" pin head diameter, you wouldn't want that head to be much longer than 1/2". If you go too long, there may be some risk of bending the pin head to the point of fatigue and eventual failure.
I think I would stick with factory pins and change shims, shackles, perches...etc. to make it work.
One thing I like with steel shims.. you can weld them to the perches to help keep them in place.
'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..
I just did this yesterday. I used Warrior steel shims because (1) everybody says aluminum isn't up to the job and (2) the steel ones are a lot thinner. (Link to part at 4WD Hardware)
They look like this:
They are maybe 1/4 inch thick at the big end and go down to a very thin edge. They are counterbored so that you can incorporate them into the spring pack and the centering pin will sit straight and fit flush.
What you do is, after you loosen your U-bolts and drop the plate, is put a couple of clamps on the springs to keep them together (or a couple of big crescent wrenches will also work) then just unscrew the nut on the centering pin. Remove the pin, lay the shim on top of your springs, drop the pin through and replace the nut. Now you have the shims firmly attached to the springs and the pin will fit up into the perch.
If your original pin isn't long enough, you can get a longer one as someone mentioned.
"We are all of us in the gutter...
Some of us are looking at the stars."
~ Oscar Wilde via Chrissie Hynde
I ordered the steel shims and installed them. I've only put about ten miles on the jeep since but it certainly is not a huge difference. Before the jeep would periodically zig or zag for no apparent reason and the wheel would not straighten out coming out of a turn. After the install it doesn't zig and zag quite as bad but it doesn't track straight down the road very well. I can keep it in my lane now but I wouldn't try adjusting the radio while driving. Now when I come out of a corner the wheel does begin to straighten a little but not alot.
I installed the shims because I had an alignment and the guy said I had 0 degrees of castor. I installed a 6 degree shim. I thought it would make a huge difference. Does anyone have any other ideas. I realize the jeep is almost 40 years old but I used to have an 82 cj7 that i'm comparing it to. The 82 had some play in the wheel bearings but it wandered less than this one.