Shackles don't seem right? - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Shackles don't seem right?

FS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options! SPARTAN LOCKERS are on sale BIG TIME at ROCKRIDGE 4WD!Yukon Ultimate 35 axle kit for c/clip axles with Yukon Zip

Reply
Unread 06-25-2014, 05:01 PM   #1
davegt
Registered User
1983 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: canada
Posts: 367
Shackles don't seem right?

I had a bds 2.5 lift installed with .5 inch lift shackles from MORE . Rides great, besides the new vibration from the drive shaft ...ugh! The shackles don't seem right and read a few different opinions on the proper torque on them. They also seem pretty straight up and down.
Should they be torqued to 105 and would this be on all the bolts?
img_20140625_201706.jpg



img_20140625_201737.jpg

davegt is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-25-2014, 05:47 PM   #2
firegod33
Registered User
1977 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Lake Havasu, AZ
Posts: 520
Looks like the shackles are for the 2.5" wide springs, not the 2".
__________________
Earth first... We'll Jeep the other planets later.
firegod33 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-25-2014, 05:52 PM   #3
Manhattan
Registered User
1981 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 482
Looks like you have two problems...
1. They do appear to be too wide for those springs - 2.5" vs. 2"
2. Torque should be nowhere near 105 ft/lbs. Shoot for 25 ft/lbs. You can see they've been pulled in - 105 ft/lbs will do that.

It looks like you may have 2.5" spring hangers and 2" springs. There are shackles available that are 2" on one end and 2.5" on the other. Typically, that's to let you use 2.5" springs with 2" hangers... I suppose you could flip them and use them with your hanger/spring set up. You should do some measuring first though.
__________________
1981 CJ8, Chevy 5.7, SM465, D300, RE 4.5, 35" BFG MTs, 20/30 4.56, Detroits, Warn 9500ti
Manhattan is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-25-2014, 06:11 PM   #4
zillla
Registered User
1975 CJ5 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 673
I'd call MORE. I have pretty much the same shackles on my 75, proper width and no probs. I also have a 2-1/2" BDS lift. It is good practice to have the alignment checked after doing any spring shackle front end work..
__________________
Pull my finger
zillla is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-25-2014, 09:18 PM   #5
Unretarded
Member
 
Unretarded's Avatar
1963 CJ5 
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Ventura, Ca
Posts: 363
Just did some shackle mount repair on mine and was looking up the Rancho springs which are a 2.5 inch lift also .75 shackle lift on mine........

Rancho called for 1/2 inch transmission/transfer case drop spacer that installs on the shield lowering both units 1/2 for drive line issues, also recomended a longer rear shaft.....

Might want to ask them about that also......hopefully they are helpful.
Unretarded is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-25-2014, 09:46 PM   #6
only in a jeep cj
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Mobile, Alabama
Posts: 4,119
Those look like the right shackles. I think people are seeing the double wrap springs and getting confused.

Remove the shackles, hammer the bent plates back to flat. shorten the center sleeve just a bit to allow the proper preload on the bushings when everything is tightened back up. Maybe 1/8" to 3/16 guessing by what I'm seeing in the pics.

The deal is with aftermarket shackles, they bump up to a 1/2" bolt only instead of the 3/8" bolt and sleeve combo. The sleeves allow not only the proper preload on the bushings, but allow the bolts to be fully tightened so they dont rotate and oval out the side plates. Your bolts are grease-able and have no sleeve other than the one center one.
__________________
Ed

1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep project in the works
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
only in a jeep cj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-26-2014, 01:16 AM   #7
BagusJeep
Web Wheeler
 
BagusJeep's Avatar
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bali, Indonesia
Posts: 4,391
If you have any play from side to side between the bushing and the inside of the hanger you will have handling problems, it will dive left and right and the sideways stress will eventiually crack a spring. I have had this issue with Puthijeep and it may be that it has 2.5" hangers and 2" springs. A few washers either side over the sleeve (more than one so they can slip) and it tightened up fine, with the washers stiill able to rotate but no appreciable play. It made such a difference I thought I had a new Jeep.
__________________
BagusJeep lives in Bali, the Land of Temples.
With a Jeep every prayer counts.

1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
BagusJeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-26-2014, 10:21 AM   #8
Renegade82
Web Wheeler
 
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,391
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manhattan View Post
Torque should be nowhere near 105 ft/lbs. Shoot for 25 ft/lbs. You can see they've been pulled in - 105 ft/lbs will do that.
^^ what he said^^ Thats why they give you nylok nuts instead of a lock washer and regular nuts. It's also why sleeves are a good idea.
__________________
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
Renegade82 is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-26-2014, 12:02 PM   #9
davegt
Registered User
1983 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: canada
Posts: 367
Thanks for the replies. They are the right shackles for the front 2 inch. Over.. I will re torque them and see how that works.
davegt is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-26-2014, 12:22 PM   #10
Tollster
Registered User
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Benton, PA
Posts: 241
I did pretty much the same lift on my CJ-5, but caster the rear axle 2.5 degree's or 3, I forget, I had to go to a machine shop and they machined two wedges so I could roll the pinion. I did it from the get go when I put the lift in, and didn't have any vibes.

just an idea, I know they pinion to drive shaft angle was steep, and tried to match both of them the best I could, I replaced too many Universals on my other two 5's.

I think I used an angle finder, that was 20 years ago and still have the same joints, and yes I still check and grease them like I used too, old habits are hard to break, and I recall the let downs ohhh too well.
Tollster is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-26-2014, 03:40 PM   #11
davegt
Registered User
1983 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: canada
Posts: 367
So i loosened up the bolts a bit and re torqued them. They are not so straight up and down anymore. Think they were torqued while the Jeep was still up on the ramp? Thanks for the advice on the vibration too. Not sure of I'm going to go with Shims or a T case drop?
davegt is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-27-2014, 06:16 AM   #12
munypit
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Farmerville, Louisiana
Posts: 30
My shackles look the same, 4 inch BDS lift with 1/2 inch shackles, I have been thinking about shortening the center spacer about 1/4 to help with the look.
munypit is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-27-2014, 06:19 AM   #13
munypit
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Farmerville, Louisiana
Posts: 30
Also can't help but notice the red grease on the greaseble pins. Manufactures recomendation is for a moly based grease. which most brands is black. I don't know if this well cause an issue in the future.
munypit is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-27-2014, 10:06 AM   #14
hotrod351
Registered User
1955 M-38 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: arizona
Posts: 441
agree, 105 torque is way to much. and they do look to wide, but they arent giving you any problems then leave them. you could always put washers in between them.
hotrod351 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-27-2014, 10:42 AM   #15
dirtdudeaz
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Lake Stevens, Washington
Posts: 337
The 105 or 100 ftlbs is where the spring mounts to the frame. Shackles are waaaaay less than that. Follow the torque sequence too. When I did mine (although it was a whole lift kit), I remember the Jeep having to be jacked up at one point, then back down for another.

My buddy's did the same as far as buldging out in the center after torquing, and he had used the rear bushings in the front and vice versa. May want to call MORE like another poster mentioned and make sure they gave you the right length bushings for everything.
dirtdudeaz is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.