Hello guys! I am a newby to the forum, and kind of a newby to Jeep ownership.
My CJ7 has 4 inches of susp. lift and 2 inches of body lift. I am running 35's. The Jeep was already raised like this when I bought it, so I dont know all of the details.
I am trying to tighten up the steering. I just recieved the MORE steering box mount [What a nice looking piece]. I got the one that moves the box forward about an inch as I plan on doing the shackle reversal some day. I also just got a new Borgeson steering shaft. I have not installed either part yet. I also plan to install the beefyer drag link and tie rod [parts are on order].
My question is.....Who has cut the C's off of their front axel [DANA 30] and re-welded them for the correct caster. This seems like the right way to do it, since we could get the optimum pinion angle and caster angle. My wonder is, are the axel tubes fitted inside of the C's, or are they just butt welded together?
I am a fair craftsman, and not affraid of a project, just like to hear from some guys who have done this one.
Can you not just put in the shim/wedges under the springs to set castor and pinion angle? Ive read about this and have seen the parts for this, just have never used them. And yes cutting and repositioning the perches would accomplish the same thing, just curious about the wedges.
The Dana 30 caster angle can be adjusted about 6 different ways. Most times you don't need to adjust the caster independent of the driveline angle.
Here are a few...
1. You can rotate the “Cs” that hold your ball joints.
2. You can cut off and remount spring perches (or mounts)
3. You can use a offset ball joint or offset mount.
4. On some axles you can grind the perch enough to change the angle.
What's your current caster angle? You didn't say.
Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read the article (sticky) on Steering, suspension, and driveline.
USUALLY correcting the pinion angle (or what people think is correcting it) is counter productive to caster. As you roll the pinion up to get your angle, it rolls the assemble down creating more positive caster. I really encourage anyone interested to read the first link I poster, it is an incredibly well written document with basic to advance knowledge presented at a level most will be able to follow. I held an ASE in suspension and alignments (as well as 6 others) for many years and even worked as a tech for a while before I picked up a pen and started running my mouth and have played with cars for 30 years, have a 2600 sft shop and work on them constantly including significant front end work. I can set an alignment pretty darn close with a tape measure and 2 ft level and I learn a lot from this document. I had no clue as compared to what this guy presented. It is a great read on this very subject.
Careful your character's showing
I know and he deserves props for the article, not only the knowledge but the way in which it is written is extremely difficult to accomplish. I have written a number of articles related to the business side of the repair business and I know the level of effort it takes. AND I have never written anything of that length.
Careful your character's showing
I have taken off Dana 44 inner knuckles (C's) twice. You have to grind out the welds. The axle tube extends almost all the way through the C. Once I think I have the weld out, I take two hammers and hit the C on the inside to try to knock it off the end of the tube. The first thing you want to do is get a crack to form where the C was welded to the tube. There is usually still some weld left at this point but once you get a crack (it will be about the width of a hair) you can see where you still need to grind weld. Be careful not to grind into the tube. Once you can see the hairline crack all the way around the tube then you can knock the C off with two hammers. Hit each side of the C at the same time with a hammer and it will come off.
Rotating the knuckle yokes is a lot of time/effort to put into a Dana 30. It would be more worthwhile to do on a better axle. I'd wait for swap time.
Since you said you bought the CJ the way it is, can you check something? What is the bolt center-to-bolt center distance on your shackles? I'm curious as to whether the previous owner installed longer shackles, which would tilt your axle forward and reduce your caster. Lift shackles really don't provide much lift at all and you should have plenty of room for 35s with a 4" spring + a 2" body lift. If you have lift shackles installed, you may want to consider taking them out. The difference they make could be the solution to your problem in itself.