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Unread 05-22-2010, 12:44 PM   #1
kickingprop
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Servicing Hubs guide with lots of pics

Well this is mainly just because I havent yet done this on my jeep and figured it was time now that I had to replace a caliper anyway. I've got a couple questions I'll get to at the end before i make my parts run.

This started because I was trying to bleed my brakes and sheared off the bleeder valve, then the MAW's kicked in when I realized I hadnt serviced the Hubs since I bought this thing! First removed the caliper to replace and brake pads which were still in good condition so I set them in the new caliper for the time being. You can see where the sheared off bleeder is





After that I started taking out the pieces carefully, cleaning with brake cleaner in between (do this in a well venitilated area!), and arranging them in order they came out just in case I get amnesia between now and when I put this back together. The PO (or PO's mechanic) used the screwdriver trick to get the hub nut off so that'll be getting replaced.





All in all the hub seemed to be in good condition so I'm going to leave the spindle bearings alone for now and call them good.

I laid everything out in order and cleaned it up some for re-assembly. I noticed the outer bearing wasnt a Timken (Koyo Hi-Cap?) so those will be getting replcaed to put my mind at ease.

Everything laid out in order. Not everyone needs to do this but I find it helpful


So my questions are. What is the name of the special tool you need to remove the bearing races from the hub? I dont have this tool but am hoping I can buy/rent it at AutoZone or the sears down the street.

I'll post re-assembly pics as I get back to it this afternoon/tomorrow.

And a big thanks to everyone who has done similar write-ups that I've used to get through this in an efficient and safe manner! (This means you JeepHammer!)

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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

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Unread 05-22-2010, 01:16 PM   #2
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kickingprop View Post


So my questions are. What is the name of the special tool you need to remove the bearing races from the hub?
The locking washer in the photo above was folded over the inner nut. That should actually be folded out over the outer nut.

To remove the races from the hub you need a hammer and a punch, they should just tap out. You'll see two reliefs in the inner hub granting you access to the back shoulder of the race. Just switch back and forth while tapping to get them out. They should not be overly tight. Obviously use care when installing the new ones.
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Unread 05-22-2010, 01:27 PM   #3
Hybrid Jeep
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What tool / method do you use to fold the locking washer over the outer nut?
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Unread 05-22-2010, 01:32 PM   #4
kickingprop
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thanks mike thats just what I needed to know!
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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

Quote:
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
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Unread 05-22-2010, 01:58 PM   #5
kickingprop
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OK went and picked up new wheel bearings, the 3 major auto stores near me ALL consider the spindle nuts and retainers, etc "non-stock" items which means I'll have to specialty oreder them

Also, any suggestions on how to remove this seal holding in the inner wheel bearing? It's the only thing standing between me and getting that second bearing and race out!

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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

Quote:
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
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Unread 05-22-2010, 02:39 PM   #6
kickingprop
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OK got that sorted out, come to find out not only did I not have Timkens in my hubs, the PO or PO Mechanic changed the bearings out for two different offname brands (NTN and Koyo?) but left old Timken races to mate them up against... I really cant believe I have been driving this thing around like this for the last 3 years....

I need to find the seals behind the inner hub bearings and then I can start re-assembly
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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

Quote:
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
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Unread 05-22-2010, 02:52 PM   #7
Redmanchew
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Kick,
call 4wd, they have a kit for the 2 nuts and washers and they also have the inner seal. Thats all i needed at the time so i bought 4 sets of nuts and washers and 6 seals. THis should keep me in front end bearing backing for a while.
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To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 05-22-2010, 03:14 PM   #8
kickingprop
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I hate being that guy, but I'm looking on 4WD and Quadratec and not finding the seal or the spindle nut... I found the washers though no problem... Could you give me a p/n or anything for that seal and spindle nut?
__________________
1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

Quote:
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
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Unread 05-22-2010, 05:11 PM   #9
76 CJ5
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Here is the nut/washer kit I went with
Spindle Washer and Nut Kit by Omix-Ada and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware-RH3

you will also need this special socket so you dont ruin the new nuts by installing them with the "chisel" method
Spindle Nut Socket by Crown Automotive and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware-RH3

here is the wheel bearing/ hub seal you need for the disc
Front Wheel Bearing Seal by Omix-Ada and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware-RH3
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Unread 05-22-2010, 09:42 PM   #10
kickingprop
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already got the spindle nut socket and seals just needed the spindle nuts and washers! Thanks for the link!!
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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

Quote:
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
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Unread 05-22-2010, 09:58 PM   #11
DCHCJ7
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Great writeup
To remove the bearing races all I have ever uses over the years is a punch and hammer. Most actually have a spot to set the punch. To put them in either a block of wood, Large socket or an actual bearing race driver.

For the seal as you are replacing it anyway, all i have ever used is a big screwdriver, and a hammer. Have done it this way for over 20 years never an issue yet, does not mean it is right just means it works.
You can use one of the fancy seal pullers, only time i ever used one it broke, so never again.
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Unread 05-22-2010, 10:05 PM   #12
Coiz
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Originally Posted by kickingprop View Post
Also, any suggestions on how to remove this seal holding in the inner wheel bearing? It's the only thing standing between me and getting that second bearing and race out!
Put the hub back on the spindle as it is pictured and install one of the washers and thread on a nut. Then simply grab the hub and rotor assembly and pull it toward you with a decent jerk. It will pop right off and the inner bearing and seal will be left on the spindle.
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Unread 05-22-2010, 10:39 PM   #13
JeepHammer
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TAPPING out the races is good advise!
Most people use a screw driver and rare back with the hammer, **** the race sideways in the bore,
Then complain how hard it was to get out....

Then the complain the hole is over sized for the new race!
------------------------------------

Tap... Tap... Tap..., Coax out that race,
Doesn't take long with a flat nosed punch (NOT screwdriver!)...
Move from side to side keeping it square in the bore and walk it out and there shouldn't be any problems what so ever.

When you put the new race in,
It's best if you use a driver tool, but you *Can* put them in with a brass drift...

Driver tools are made so you CAN NOT contact the bearing face to screw it up...
You can rent the kit from the discount chain stores for little or nothing, and they REALLY make driving races and seals easy!

If you don't have one handy,
Then use a brass 'Drift' (heavy brass rod) and work around the race with LIGHT TAPS to get the race to work in a little at a time,
And keep it square!

Brass can't scratch the race if you slip off.
If you use a steel punch and you slip off the rim of the race or hit the race too hard and distort the rim,
IT'S JUNK! You killed it right then and there...

Brass drifts are cheap and everyone should have a couple of they are going to do transmission, differential or anything with insert bearings or gears that (stubbornly) go on shafts...

A little grease on the back side of the race makes it go in SO MUCH NICER!
Driving them dry will have them hanging up on EVERYTHING!

You just want to make sure the hole/race/grease stays CLEAN!
If ANYTHING gets trapped behind that race, it won't seat properly and you will get some REALLY odd wear on the bearings/race...

Nothing will replace the 'Sterilized Torque Wrench' approach...
Clean everything well, keep it clean on a clean work surface and you just CAN'T go wrong that way!
--------------------------------

I usually don't bother greasing the bearings until the races are in and inspected/cleaned off...
Then I give them a thin coat of grease on the bearing surface to make sure they don't 'Dry Start'...

Pack the roller bearings (usually by hand or with vacuum packer) and install bearings.

Remember, pack as much grease in that hub as you can get in there!
Where grease is, moisture can't be!
With grease in there, you can't 'Suck' water in when a warm hub meets a cold water hole!

I go as far as to drill a small hole in my spindle, pump the spindle void full of grease once the axle is in,
Then I put grease zerks on the hubs so I can pump them full of grease to keep the moisture out.
Works pretty well for me!

If you don't drill your hubs, use a grease needle so you can get past the bearings and pump the hub full.
Grease needles are cheap and they work GREAT.
---------------------------------------------

For bending the outer washer over the outside locking nut,
I use a pry bar with a 'Crooked' end,
But if you use a piece of leather between shaft of a heavy screwdriver and the hub you can use a heavy screw driver.
DON'T DING UP THE LOCKOUT SURFACE BY PRYING AGAINST IT!
Old leather shoe tongue or belt will give you something to buffer the load against the hub while you are prying on the washer.

REMEMBER!
You don't have to get carried away with that bend!
You are only locking one of the 'Flats' on the nut down,
You don't have to bend it a full 90 over the nut,
Just enough to keep it from backing off during operation.
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Unread 05-28-2010, 06:08 PM   #14
kickingprop
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So I finally got all the parts I needed and began re-assembly. Thanks to 76CJ5 for the link to the spindle nut/washer kit!

Got everything organized and grabbed about 5 pairs of nitrile gloves from the lab at work for all the grease work. It was about 105F this afternoon so I set up a little workstation in the living room for installing the races and packing the bearings.

New bearings, seals, and nuts/washers, and a new package of disc brake wheel bearing grease. I tried to show the part #'s of the individual and the complete kit for anyone that wants to order them from 4WD in the future



Race and seal driver kit free rental from O'Reilly's



Inner bearing race installed and greased lightly



Bearing packed and installed with new seal



Driving the outer bearing race in on my makeshift worktable in the living room



Inner spindle nut was torqued to 50ft/lbs then backed off about 1/4 turn until spinning freely with no end play



Outer nut installed and torqued to 65ft/lbs and washer bent over flat surface to prevent nut loosening.



New caliper installed just waiting on a buddy to come over and help me bleed it



Also... I noticed that the concrete sealant in the garage at this house I'm renting isnt too fond of the cheap O'Reillys brake cleaner... Look at how its peeling up!!



I still need to do the other side but I dont imagine it taking NEARLY as long as the first one did being this is my first time with this and I'm paranoid of screwing anything up! If anyone sees anything I screwed up on please point it out before I try and take this thing for a drive!
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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

Quote:
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
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Unread 05-28-2010, 06:17 PM   #15
VACJ7
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Looks good! Nice job. I just went through this myself but since I had it torn down I went ahead and pulled the spindle to service/replace the spindle bearings at the same time. Other side will definitely go faster!
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