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post #91 of 684 Old 08-16-2012, 05:35 PM
86cj74.2L
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I run the rotella T6 synthetic in everything I own or am responsible for but the 04 grand Cherokee with the 4.7l V8.

1986 CJ7 my sign in name
1998 Kawasaki ZX9r
1970 Chevelle 396ss
1994 Dodge Ram cummins diesel
1996 Saturn SL1 (only because it's got 190,000 miles on it)

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post #92 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
Dadamsnv
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Okay, cool. That's good oil.

Cheers!
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post #93 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
Dadamsnv
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Well, the bog came back hardcore for a while. I had a hard time just getting her to get off the line without dying. Then, cruising down, the road, it suddenly and obviously began to run much better, and the bog was gone!!! This is very strange to me

Maybe I will replace my fuel filter, and then try and raise my fuel height in the bowl. Any ideas anybody??

Cheers!
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post #94 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 06:27 AM
vinnyabs
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Sorry to hear about the evil return Dada. I know that let down after you thought you tackled your project only to have it fight back. My question along with you is does the synthetics leak from the rear main seal because they are thinner? I have about 5k on my rebuild and have been putting 10w-30 with Lucas in and run 60psi at start up and 20psi at operating temp. Also keeps that pesky rear main drop to almost nothing.

Earning an engineering degree one CJ7 hiccup at a time
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post #95 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 07:33 AM
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Synthetics are just as "thick" as the natural oil they are replacing BUT they have "hard core" cleaners/scrubbers in their oil. They keep the engine contact surfaces clean. What generally happens is one an engine has wear on it, it builds up crud around seals and thickens. The seal wears down but the crud keeps the leak from happening. Changing to synthetics cleans the crud away, thus allowing oil to leak through the worn seal. Sounds weird, but true.

Take care,

Check out "YJ V6 Conversion" if you want to see a frame up restoration of my 1992 YJ.

Check out "WWII Jeep Photos AND Restoration of..." if you want to see the original JEEP in action...
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post #96 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 07:54 AM
vinnyabs
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So since its a new seal, I shouldn't have an issue right?

Earning an engineering degree one CJ7 hiccup at a time
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post #97 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 07:55 AM
vinnyabs
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By the way sas, love the willy. Did my cj as a throw back

image-1627206478.jpg

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post #98 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 08:03 AM
1SASjeepster
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Vinnyabs,

Your jeep is beautiful!!!

On another note... I have been using synthetic oils for the last twenty years (or there abouts.) I have never had an issue with them. My engines have always been internally super clean and seals didn't leak. The only leak I did incur was on a Chevy V6 rear main seal BUT it was a seal that was "made in Mexico" and I didn't believe it was made to specifications. I knew there was a problem with it by how easy it went in. The replacement was tighter and hadn't leaked yet. You should be OK.

Great jeep and if you are more interested in WWII jeeps, look up "1SASjeepster" threads... there is one dedicated to WWII jeeps usage and restoration with mega photos...

Take care,

Check out "YJ V6 Conversion" if you want to see a frame up restoration of my 1992 YJ.

Check out "WWII Jeep Photos AND Restoration of..." if you want to see the original JEEP in action...
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post #99 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 08:10 AM
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Vinnyabs,

Great Jeep!!! If you are interested in more WWII Jeeps, I have a thread on "WWII jeep restoration and usage" in this forum somewhere. It has more photos than you can imagine, both restoration photos and actual WWII photos. I am sure you will like it. As far as the synthetic oil, I have used synthetics for over twenty years now (or there abouts). I have never had a problem and the internals of my engines have always been fantastic. The only leak I had was a Chevy V6 engine's rear seal BUt it wasn't the oil's fault. I realized the seal went in too easy and should have bought another one. Anyway, the seal leaked. I inspected it and LOL, it was made in Mexico BUT NOT TO U.S. SPECS. Bought one "Made in the USA" and it went in, like it was supposed to, and no more leaks. You should be good to go, barring anything extraordinary.

Take care,

Check out "YJ V6 Conversion" if you want to see a frame up restoration of my 1992 YJ.

Check out "WWII Jeep Photos AND Restoration of..." if you want to see the original JEEP in action...
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post #100 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
Dadamsnv
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Vinny,

That is a beautiful CJ!! I'm thinking I may do the same scheme but in a glossy battleship gray.

In other news, the bog was gone again this morning, but as I rolled up to work, it was on its way back. Interestingly enough, I can tell when its about to get into a bogging phase because the air flow through the carb starts to make a louder, more hollow, restricted sound like Darth Vader.

Anybody have any clues or hints? I don't want to move onto the vacuum advance tuning until I get this sorted out.

Maybe I will have to make a rich lean indicator to see if perhaps there is a richening of the slow circuit in the carb.

Cheers!
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post #101 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, it hit me (only part of it). This whole bog thing started after I switched to manifold vac instead of ported vac.

With that being said, when everything is behaving itself, manifold vac is great. However, when this mysterious bog happens, manifold vac is apparently not great. So I'd venture to say that my bogging issue is most likely a timing issue related to vac advance. I theorize then, that my vac advance can is bad in some way causing it to perform differently. I feel that while having the extra advance at idle is awesome, I have too much advance for my own good. I can turn the overall vac advance down, but at the moment, at PTC, the vac advance would need to increase and not decrease.

What I really need is something in between ported and manifold vac to get a more proper initial advance from vac, because, at the moment, even when the jeep is running great, I can't hammer down on a hard takeoff without some stumbling issues, and I know my accel pump and power valve are at least in the ballpark.

Here is a chart that summarizes how I think this whole thing is working out. Correct me if I'm wrong because I'm still figuring this whole thing out.
Attached Thumbnails
photo (3).JPG  

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post #102 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 04:17 PM
86cj74.2L
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Did you go back to ported to prove your theory?

Drive around just on the mechanical without anything at all hooked to the vac advance canister. See if it goes away.
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post #103 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
Dadamsnv
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I will this evening, right now I'm at work I'll let you know how it goes.

Cheers!
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post #104 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 04:40 PM
86cj74.2L
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I'm at work till 6am tomorrow morning..........
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post #105 of 684 Old 08-17-2012, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
Dadamsnv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
I'm at work till 6am tomorrow morning..........
Bleh!graveyard eh?

Cheers!
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