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Unread 06-30-2013, 02:56 PM   #1
Rjax
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Sealant?

Finished fabrication on my rockers and before I install I thought I might use sealant as a moisture barrier between rockers and the tub. Any suggestions on which sealant to use or maybe other ideas to reduce moisture getting in. Any help is appreciated.

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Unread 06-30-2013, 02:57 PM   #2
82JeepCJ7
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Put a small bead of black RTV about a 1/2" from the edge and let it set up and cure. Then mount your rockers using stainless hardware so it wont rust.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 03:22 PM   #3
gmakra
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I would not recommend silicone it contain acetic acid and can cause rust.
You could use 3M strip caulk but in the end I dont think any method you use will stop the tub from rusting.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 03:43 PM   #4
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Rjax-

I used this stuff on my tub to fill in the seams prior to painting:

http://3mcollision.com/products/seal...dge-08365.html
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Unread 06-30-2013, 08:04 PM   #5
row684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rjax
Finished fabrication on my rockers and before I install I thought I might use sealant as a moisture barrier between rockers and the tub. Any suggestions on which sealant to use or maybe other ideas to reduce moisture getting in. Any help is appreciated.

Rjax
I saw some Seam Sealer at Advanced Auto Parts the other day, don't know much about it though.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 08:52 PM   #6
CSP
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I put herculiner on my tub behind the rockers. No sealant is going to prevent dust/moisture from getting between the tub and rockers and if anything, might keep moisture in longer than without sealant.

The herculiner is bonded to the tub. It's the best preventative measure against rust, IMO.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 09:35 PM   #7
robs7
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Personally I wouldn't put any kind of sealant at all behind them. I would be afraid that the complete opposite would happen and it would trap moisture in. I would use stainless screws though for sure. Just my two cents. Rob
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Unread 06-30-2013, 09:45 PM   #8
lucdog
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When I did these, and after drilling the holes, ( the tub was painted 3 weeks prior) I ran a circle of RTV around the bolt holes on the tub and let is set up for about 4 hours , before installing the rocker guards


image-2886017744.jpg

The RTV was approx 1/4" thick.
I case your wondering. The bottom of the 1/4"x 6" plate has 3 tabs welded to the inner bottom ( back, center, and front, with 1/2" x2" flat stock that bolts to a clip welded on the frame/body mount bracket. The inside of the tub has 3 16 gauge pieces bent in a 90* that use the same bolts as the guards, and are then bolted thru the floor pan. Body panel adhesive was use under both legs of the 90's. and then hurculiner was applied to the interior.
The 1/4" plate was painted on both sides with Industrial black epoxy.
Bill
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Unread 06-30-2013, 10:25 PM   #9
Rjax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
When I did these, and after drilling the holes, ( the tub was painted 3 weeks prior) I ran a circle of RTV around the bolt holes on the tub and let is set up for about 4 hours , before installing the rocker guards


Attachment 641563

The RTV was approx 1/4" thick.
I case your wondering. The bottom of the 1/4"x 6" plate has 3 tabs welded to the inner bottom ( back, center, and front, with 1/2" x2" flat stock that bolts to a clip welded on the frame/body mount bracket. The inside of the tub has 3 16 gauge pieces bent in a 90* that use the same bolts as the guards, and are then bolted thru the floor pan. Body panel adhesive was use under both legs of the 90's. and then hurculiner was applied to the interior.
The 1/4" plate was painted on both sides with Industrial black epoxy.
Bill
I like the idea of using the RTV around bolt holes. Like CSP, I fear sealing completely could lead to holding moisture in. What do you guys think about using por-15 on the tub area behind the rockers? My rockers are fairly easy to remove but time consuming, so I could remove and dry if I get caught in a down pour. So I was thinking the por-15 might atleast slow the process.

Nice rockers by the way lucdog

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Unread 06-30-2013, 10:34 PM   #10
lucdog
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Thanks, I would say there is a 1/16+ gap between the tub and rocker guard.

IIRC the SS bolts were $80 at Fastenal. And the SS fold down step is for Mrs Lucdog .

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 10:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
When I did these, and after drilling the holes, ( the tub was painted 3 weeks prior) I ran a circle of RTV around the bolt holes on the tub and let is set up for about 4 hours , before installing the rocker guards


Attachment 641563

The RTV was approx 1/4" thick.
I case your wondering. The bottom of the 1/4"x 6" plate has 3 tabs welded to the inner bottom ( back, center, and front, with 1/2" x2" flat stock that bolts to a clip welded on the frame/body mount bracket. The inside of the tub has 3 16 gauge pieces bent in a 90* that use the same bolts as the guards, and are then bolted thru the floor pan. Body panel adhesive was use under both legs of the 90's. and then hurculiner was applied to the interior.
The 1/4" plate was painted on both sides with Industrial black epoxy.
Bill

Bill, where did you get the step from. My son is wanting some steps on his '74 and I have some original CJ steps but he's not sure if he wants those big steps.

Thanks,
Jim
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Unread 06-30-2013, 11:02 PM   #12
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They came from a ace called Mutual Wheel ( may be a local shop only). They have them in SS and Galvanized.
I posted a link for Skerr a year or so ago but didnt save it. Sorry. These are used on Boats, OTR trucks, and Fire engines. I think it was a boat web site store I posted for Skerr.

From Ebay.

image-3327398507.jpg

Link.
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/folding-boat-step.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
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1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 11:07 PM   #13
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Thanks,
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Unread 07-01-2013, 12:26 AM   #14
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You are at risk of creating a rust trap by placing one sheet of metal on top of another. Capillary action will draw moisture up in there.

Best solution is to mount them far enough away from the body that you can clean behind them and air can circulate. however this may defeat their operation.

I would go with a wax product as when it is applied in the cavity it will prevent moisture from getting to either steel part. Not fool proof but better than a silicone sealant which is acidic.

Then I would fix it with zinc plated screws. If it is in a wet salty environment in winter and you have stainless and carbon steel in contact you will get corrosion, which yu eill not get with zonc plated. There are ways round this so you can use those very nice stainless fasteners but they entail seperating the two metals. If you used bolts it is possible to buy top hat sections and PTFE washers on the bolts and nuts to seperate them but scews are more difficult. if in a dryish climate without deicing you would probably not notice the corrosion.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 09:27 AM   #15
pagnani
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I went with Poison Spyder for my rocker guards and I saw this item for sale:

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/Jeep-Ro.../13-08-320.htm

I thought I would give them a try instead of caulking or RTV and I must say that I think this is the ticket. I do not see them trapping water or helping rust!

EDIT: Similar item here: http://www.4wheelparts.com/Armor-Pro...t_pn=TUS000184
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