Scout D44 front axle swap - JeepForum.com
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Unread 11-01-2013, 09:51 PM   #1
Spieg8
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1984 CJ8 
 
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Scout D44 front axle swap

Was perusing one of my local bone yards today and stumbled upon an old Scout II Traveler that still had an intact D44 front axle. I know that there would be some modifications needed to make it fit my W/T Scrambler. I'm just trying to figure out what all would need to be done...
I believe that these axles were 58" WMS-WMS which is about 3" wider than my existing D30 (please confirm if anyone knows for sure). Would it be okay (SAFE?) to run the wider front axle with a stock WT rear axle?. I also know the inner "Cs" would need to be rotated to correct caster angle (a hassle but doable).
I'm particularly curious what would be the best way to handle the spring perches (don't really want to outboard the springs if I can avoid it). If I use Jeep factory spring mounts, do I have to shorten the axle?

Also not sure about steering and brakes for this... is it possible to stick Jeep brakes or knuckles on this axle? I've heard that some of the old Scout brake parts are near impossible to find now.
Any info, cautions, or suggestions would be appreciated.

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Unread 11-01-2013, 10:12 PM   #2
CSP
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The only way around outboarding is to narrow the axle or install it off-center.

You can use your CJ outers on that axle. The Scout outer axleshafts are compatible with the CJ outers and you'd have to use them because of the larger axleshaft ujoint size. Scout knuckles have some goofy long steering arms, so it's a good idea to use the CJ parts or you lose a lot of turning radius.

All that you really gain from the Scout D44 is the stronger axleshaft ujoints and larger ring and pinion. They have the same outer axleshaft diameter, tube diameter and tube wall thickness as the CJ Dana 30.
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Unread 11-01-2013, 10:31 PM   #3
Spieg8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
All that you really gain from the Scout D44 is the stronger axleshaft ujoints and larger ring and pinion. They have the same outer axleshaft diameter, tube diameter and tube wall thickness as the CJ Dana 30.
Thanks for the input. I'm kind of torn right now. I was planning to beef up the D30 this winter with some 30 spline alloy shafts and ARB air locker. So the only real advantage left for the D44 would be stronger R&P gears. The cost of narrowing and re-gearing the D44 would probably be more than a set of 30 spline shafts for the D30. I hate decisions!!
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Unread 11-02-2013, 09:41 AM   #4
jeepwhore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spieg8 View Post
Thanks for the input. I'm kind of torn right now. I was planning to beef up the D30 this winter with some 30 spline alloy shafts and ARB air locker. So the only real advantage left for the D44 would be stronger R&P gears. The cost of narrowing and re-gearing the D44 would probably be more than a set of 30 spline shafts for the D30. I hate decisions!!
Depending how hard you are on it, I'd still do the swap. Upgraded shafts make the R&P the next point of failure (especally with a locker) so you'd likely be redoing gears either way if you really abuse it. If you just trail ride and don't go much beyond moderate trails you'll probably be fine with what you got.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 10:16 AM   #5
Grumpy_one
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I went with a chevy front end for those very reasons, didn't want to outboard the springs. Heaver duty outers, thicker wall thickness. How much do they want for the Scout II front end? I got my chevy front end for less than 100.00 without the locking hubs (already had them), came complete otherwise. On my CJ5 the center pin hole for the springs was relocated on the passenger side of the pumpkin. Also had it narrowed, this was/is for a SOA project. I wanted/needed the flat top knuckles for high steer as well. I went through the same decisions, I know how anguishing it can be. Good luck.

Oh, and the wms on the Scout II front is about 59", an inch longer the then rear which is about 58.25" +- .125"
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