Going to Ford wheelbearing hubs does add 1" total to the WMS width. The reason is the wheel mounting surface relative to the inner bearing isn't the same between Chevy/Jeep six lug wheelbearing hubs and Ford wheelbearing hubs. Been there, done that.
Not sure why anyone would let steering be the reason to keep the 30 outers. They are the same as Scout D44 outers. With real D44 outers like you find on fullsize Jeep/Ford/Chevy you get a stronger internal hub, cheaper brake parts, and a larger diameter/stronger stub axle. Drag links/tie-rods are easy to make and pitman arms can be swapped if necessary.
What problem are you talking about No BS in regard to Chevy/FSJ knuckles? What do you think that people who swap in Chevy or FSJ Dana 44s do? Never had any problems with any of the Chevy/FSJ D44 swaps that I've done.
I am in the process of doing this converion too DT5150 do you have any pics od your steering set up? I would like to see how you went about using the d30 steering? well any help would be greatly apprecaited thanks
basically just removed the scout outers, pulled everything i needed off the d30 and installed it on the scout 44. this is the only pic i have..
SOLD! 83 CJ-7. TBI Small Block Chevy 350/TH350/D300, Scout II Dana 44 front, CJ Dana 44 rear. 4" BDS Lift with 35's. Currently Jeepless.
This is my crossover steering setup on a scout D44 axle. You can see that the drag link is almost horizontal. I went to a lot of effort to keep the leaf spring mounts very close to the axle tubes. This makes it easier for the tie rod and drag link to go over the springs without hitting them. The last picture is how I mounted the drag link to the pitman arm with a special aircraft grade steel bolt I got from Speedway Motors. That bolt has a 5/8" bolt on one side and a tie rod taper on the other side.
The problems are when you stay SUA and do not go high steer. The 44 knuckles have a longer steering arm on them, and only one hole each, putting the tie rod further forward, and making it necessary to mount the drag link to the tie rod, not the knuckle. Compound that with the need to run a Waggy pitman arm, which is also longer than the stock one, and the tie rod/drag link start to get way out of wack (drag link is actually behind the tie rod. In my case, with a 2.5" lift, the suspension could not move because the drag link joint on the pitman arm was resting on the tie rod. Now, with a 6" lift, there would be clearance between the two but I've never seen it done. But, with stretching the front 2" and moving the box forward 1.25", my guess is that the tie rod would be somewhere around 2-3" in front of the pitman arm. Not to sure how that would affect steering geometry for the road.
1977 Cj5, 258, T-18, 2.46:1 Dana 20, 2.5" BDS lift, OBA, 38.5's. Chevy 60 frt, 14b Rear, Full hydro, 102"wb, full DOM cage.
wow, lots of great info in here - glad I posted this up now. I appreciate everyones feedback......
Soo with this being said, if a person had to choose, which would be the easier of the swap? I don't have to stretch the front, but my steering will be 1.25" further ahead then stock (regardless to of what I do with the axle)
Waggy 44s or Scout 44s - its sounding like the Waggy may be easier to do. Again the two sets of axles I am look at are about the same, though the scout ones are about $150 more (due to the front ARB I assume).
Well the waggy has a locker - just not selectable, which is no biggie to me. Another plus is the waggy's are a few hours closer - another plus. If the waggy's are a little easier to swap in I would prefer that, in fact I was almost set on getting them awhile back, and then these scout 44s popped up (that's what started my original question - lol).