This will be a very slow thread! Since Clay and I are building his 5 I am not really building my Jeep at this time, but there are a few things that I am doing along the way. I can't put them in Clay's thread, so here is mine.
Her name is Lizzie. She's a 1985 CJ7 I got from a guy up in Hawkinsville, Georgia. She had sat in the woods for 5 years until I saw her and talked the guy into selling her to me. I got her for $1750. So far Lizzie has received a bench seat (from a Commando), MC2100, some gaskets, 2.5" RC suspension lift, ProComp 9000 shocks, and all poly suspension bushings. She is Nuttered and runs well. I am redoing the spare tire carrier and she just got some new wipers and dimmer switch.
Today I was replacing a wheel cylinder when AJ and his son JR pulled up. They helped me bleed the brakes and we discovered my Master Cylinder was bad. So we started to rebuild it. Used to be you could do that for about $3, buying a seal kit, but we discovered you can't find the seal kit anymore. So bought a reman master from Auto Zone for $18 plus the core.
Here are some pics of AJ working on the old master before we learned that we couldn't rebuild it, and some more pics of bench bleeding the new reman unit.
This is JR. He's as good a mechanic as his dad, AJ. Sitting next to JR is the old master cylinder disassembled.
To disassemble the master you have to remove the snap ring where the piston rod goes into the body. Then you carefully pull everything out. There are two plungers. The second one will be inside the body of the master. We used air pressure to force it out.
AJ buffing the lip so the lid will make a good seal.
Cleaned up and ready for the lid.
AJ used this tool to clean the bore of the master. The metal rod has a slot in the end. He used some sandpaper.
Wind it up on the rod.
Insert it into the bore and slowly spin the rod, cleaning the bore.
This is when we discovered we couldn't find a seal kit and opted for a reman. So we changed gears.
Here is the new reman master. I stuck it in my vise to prepare it for bench bleeding. I want to polish the lip so the lid will seal well. I used a metal file to do this. Keep it flat at all times. Protect the inlets from dust and trash.
Lots of filings.
Blow it out and level it in the vise.
Attach the bleeder nipples and tubes as described in the directions. Keep the ends of the tubes away from the inlets inside the reservoirs. You don't want to keep recirculating the air that will pump through the tubes.
Add clean fluid to the reservoirs, making sure the ends of the tubes are covered. Add fluid as needed to keep the tubes covered.
Push in slowly on the piston to begin the bleeding process. This will take you around a half-hour, more or less. Go slow. The directions say to use short strokes.
Bubbles!
Once all the air is removed top off the reservoirs, remove the tubes, and cap the nipples. You are ready to install.
Sorry for the super long post! But that will be all for awhile!
Her name is Lizzie. She's a 1985 CJ7 I got from a guy up in Hawkinsville, Georgia. She had sat in the woods for 5 years until I saw her and talked the guy into selling her to me. I got her for $1750. So far Lizzie has received a bench seat (from a Commando), MC2100, some gaskets, 2.5" RC suspension lift, ProComp 9000 shocks, and all poly suspension bushings. She is Nuttered and runs well. I am redoing the spare tire carrier and she just got some new wipers and dimmer switch.
Today I was replacing a wheel cylinder when AJ and his son JR pulled up. They helped me bleed the brakes and we discovered my Master Cylinder was bad. So we started to rebuild it. Used to be you could do that for about $3, buying a seal kit, but we discovered you can't find the seal kit anymore. So bought a reman master from Auto Zone for $18 plus the core.
Here are some pics of AJ working on the old master before we learned that we couldn't rebuild it, and some more pics of bench bleeding the new reman unit.
This is JR. He's as good a mechanic as his dad, AJ. Sitting next to JR is the old master cylinder disassembled.
To disassemble the master you have to remove the snap ring where the piston rod goes into the body. Then you carefully pull everything out. There are two plungers. The second one will be inside the body of the master. We used air pressure to force it out.
AJ buffing the lip so the lid will make a good seal.
Cleaned up and ready for the lid.
AJ used this tool to clean the bore of the master. The metal rod has a slot in the end. He used some sandpaper.
Wind it up on the rod.
Insert it into the bore and slowly spin the rod, cleaning the bore.
This is when we discovered we couldn't find a seal kit and opted for a reman. So we changed gears.
Here is the new reman master. I stuck it in my vise to prepare it for bench bleeding. I want to polish the lip so the lid will seal well. I used a metal file to do this. Keep it flat at all times. Protect the inlets from dust and trash.
Lots of filings.
Blow it out and level it in the vise.
Attach the bleeder nipples and tubes as described in the directions. Keep the ends of the tubes away from the inlets inside the reservoirs. You don't want to keep recirculating the air that will pump through the tubes.
Add clean fluid to the reservoirs, making sure the ends of the tubes are covered. Add fluid as needed to keep the tubes covered.
Push in slowly on the piston to begin the bleeding process. This will take you around a half-hour, more or less. Go slow. The directions say to use short strokes.
Bubbles!
Once all the air is removed top off the reservoirs, remove the tubes, and cap the nipples. You are ready to install.
Sorry for the super long post! But that will be all for awhile!