Scott's Build Thread- 85 CJ7 - Page 37 - JeepForum.com
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post #541 of 1790 Old 03-08-2013, 05:26 PM
lucdog
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Here's how I did the spring perch. Checked it with a straight edge to get it flat. I believe it's 3*.

image-2070105420.jpg

The back one is stock.

Bill


1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #542 of 1790 Old 03-08-2013, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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So you ground down just the corner? I am having trouble with the perspective...


This pic is a result of a conversation Bill and I had on the phone. It is about adjusting caster on a D30. Grinding down the spring perch as opposed to using shims.

Thanks, Bill.

Kerrdog
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post #543 of 1790 Old 03-08-2013, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr
So you ground down just the corner? I am having trouble with the perspective...

This pic is a result of a conversation Bill and I had on the phone. It is about adjusting caster on a D30. Grinding down the spring perch as opposed to using shims.

Thanks, Bill.
Ya it's hard to see. If you were to lay a 2 or 3 degree wedge on the perch the wide part would be on the left side. I started 3/16" from the right hand side, with the grinding. I used a factory perch to gauge where I was . I wanted about 3/16 to a 1/4" gone on the left side.


image-942138877.jpg



image-2505541692.jpg

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #544 of 1790 Old 03-08-2013, 08:13 PM
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'Sup sport?

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-- Thomas Jefferson, 1 Thomas Jefferson Papers, 334
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post #545 of 1790 Old 03-08-2013, 09:10 PM
Coiz
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This is kind of crude but I think it demonstrates what he's trying to describe.
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Mike

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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #546 of 1790 Old 03-08-2013, 09:17 PM
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And in that actual picture he was only half done. Am I right Bill?
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post #547 of 1790 Old 03-08-2013, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz
And in that actual picture he was only half done. Am I right Bill?
If you mean did I do the other one on the back side , I didn't . The stock one I used needed to be welded to the passenger side. I set the ground perch and axle on the pin on the drivers side. Then put the un-ground perch on the pass side, clamped the axle to the spring, c (5.9*) looked at the pinion yoke and tacked the perch on. This was with the springs/jeep supported by jacks, at ride height.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #548 of 1790 Old 03-08-2013, 10:04 PM
Coiz
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I obviously didn't catch all the previous conversation but at least that should help out Scott with what you did.

Mike

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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #549 of 1790 Old 03-10-2013, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Mike, thanks for the perspective. I got it now, but I'm afraid to take a grinder to the perch. I don't have Bill's experience or... um... years! He keeps teaching me new stuff, and I keep being amazed at what he knows, but I'm chicken!!

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #550 of 1790 Old 03-10-2013, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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I got a little motivation this morning, and I started to reassemble my 7 after cannibalizing so much of it for Clay's 5. Awhile back, Bill sent me a Clifford intake to replace mine, since mine ended up on Clay's motor! I started cleaning surfaces with a file (flange to block, flange to carb), and I got to thinking about a common mishap when mounting a 2100 carb to an adapter plate. I "learned" this when I did Clay's MC2100, because I "experienced" it! I mounted up his 2100 and I had a terrible vacuum leak. But I didn't know anything about it because it was "my first time"! AJ was over and he discovered my leak, which was HUGE! We couldn't hear it and propane made no difference. After removing the whole intake AJ discovered the problem... so we fixed it. And Voila! No more intake leak. So I thought I would post up some pics so you guys can see the mistake I made. These are all just mock-ups, but final assembly will be similar...

First of all, here is the Clifford intake. It has a Clifford adapter plate already on it.


Here is a picture of the bottom of my MC2100. This came off an F150.


If you install the paper gasket that comes in the rebuild kit, it will look something like this.


It will seal just fine in the front (hard to tell in this pic, but take my word for it). There is no gasket to see... this is only a demo.


But it will leave this gaping hole across the back.


All of this area is a vacuum leak, and it is so big that propane made no difference. AJ and I could not hear it (no stethoscope was used). The engine would run if you stayed on the throttle, but once you let go it would die.


This spacer makes a seal...


Or this paper gasket makes a seal...


I'll do something like this, with a paper gasket between the spacer and the adapter and the spacer and the carb.



I have seen this happen on several MC2100 installs. I have also seen differences in 2100 carb bases by years, but I don't know enough about it to say anything specific about years/models, etc. What I'm saying is pay attention to this area when installing your MC2100, because you can't see this problem when the carb is mounted and under the hood.

I hope someone finds this useful. And Thanks to Billy Boy for the intake!

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #551 of 1790 Old 03-10-2013, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Awright, you Scurvy Dogs.... here's my take on drilling/tapping my Clifford intake for the power steering bracket. Blow by sordid blow. Laggards weep...

Since Bill sent me this HyPo Clifford intake, which I'm sure will have me grabbing rubber through 3 gears, with 2.73 and 35s (), I need to bore the ONE MISSING HOLE! But Beggars can't be Choosers (if they choose they should be shot!), so since this manifold isn't PERFECT, it's up to me to make it so. I need to drill and tap this one plug for the upper pwr steering brackert. oops... bracket. I mocked up the intake, remounted my previously uninstalled power steering pump/bracket, tightened it all down... more or less... marked the hole with a Dullie (inverse of Sharpie... that's what we use here in White Springs!), and then "center-punched" it for a 3/8s bolt. I used a 3/8 drill bit, tapping gently on the butt end with a hammer, while slowing turning the bit. I think this will work...
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0129_1.JPG   IMG_0130_1.JPG   IMG_0131_1.JPG  

Kerrdog
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post #552 of 1790 Old 03-10-2013, 05:31 PM
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Good to see you back at it, I take it your feeling better?

Interesting that they cast the part to have bolt threads, but didn't drill and tap it.


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post #553 of 1790 Old 03-10-2013, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Wellll... hell. The outside shape of the casting is not indicative of the thickness of the plug. Don't know if it's called a plug, but that's what I'm calling it. As you see in the pics, I centered the hole. Clay and I just drilled it out. I measured then drilled. Pulled it out, measured, and drilled some more, over and over. STILL I DRILLED THROUGH! But there is no way you could have had a viable hole with holding threads if I had stopped on time. The hole would have only been a 1/4", and that would have left a very thin wall behind the bolt. I am using a 3/4" X 3/8 bolt at this mount. I couldn't find 1/2" bolts, but they would have been too long too.

So I have this 3/8 tapped hole right into the intake. I'm telling myself "it ain't that bad!" What do ya'll recommend for sealing the threads? Hi-Temp RTV??

Kerrdog
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But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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post #554 of 1790 Old 03-10-2013, 07:05 PM
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How about using JB weld or some other sealing adhesive and using a piece of threaded rod instead?


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Jered
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post #555 of 1790 Old 03-10-2013, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Thought about it, but I'm thinking a stud would make it necessary to remove your steering pump to get the bracket off the manifold??? Kind of a PITA, although I don't have immediate plans to remove the manifold again! How hot would the intake get? The intake is aluminum.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
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