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Unread 01-10-2010, 10:55 AM   #16
CJ-Steve
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 7
I pretty much followed your reply and am looking forward to your schematic. I prepare diagrams at work and know making one understandable takes awhile.

My reply should have stated all relays and power lines (#30 'supply line' and #87 'load to lights") are in the engine bay. Power lines come from the battery line to the soleniod with a fuse.

The only wires that go through the fire wall to the inside of the cab, are the control lines to the relays (#85 and #86).

Thanks,

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Unread 01-10-2010, 04:41 PM   #17
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
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Check my last post, I added diagrams to that thread.
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Unread 01-10-2010, 07:04 PM   #18
CJ-Steve
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 7
Thanks for all the details on the schematics. You were right (of course). It is a very simple circuit. Now all I have to do is find the wires you identified and wire up the relay and fuse.

Speaking of fuses, from your previous reply, I should use "lock out" type fuses on the power feed lines on both the high beams and aux. lights.

Also, like you suggested, I plan on putting all the relays and fuses on the passenger side and away from the fuse block.

You mentioned "armored". Can you elaborate on that. I though of putting the wires in high temperature fiberglass sleeving and then put that in flame retardant split convoluted sleeving. If one of the wires to the lights get pinches, the sleeving will contain or minimize any damage inside the engine bay.

I plan on getting the relays, fuses and wire as soon as I finish installing all the dedicated returns per your 10 rules in the post titled, "Been reading the good book of JeepHammer".

Thanks again for all you help.
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Last edited by CJ-Steve; 01-10-2010 at 07:22 PM..
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Unread 01-10-2010, 09:42 PM   #19
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
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Location: South West Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ-Steve View Post
Speaking of fuses, from your previous reply, I should use "lock out" type fuses on the power feed lines on both the high beams and aux. lights.
Up to you.
I normally use small enough circuit protection to protect the SMALLEST wire in the circuit, so repeated cycling will just burn up the breaker eventually, instead of letting the wiring catch fire.

I use Type II on Aux. lights,
I use Type I on Primary & Secondary lights.
The breaker in the head light switch is a Type I and will cycle.
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Quote:
Also, like you suggested, I plan on putting all the relays and fuses on the passenger side and away from the fuse block.
I put breakers close to the starter relay so the unprotected wire run isn't very long.
Then I put my relays on the back of the grill shell up by the head lights (either side of the radiator).

Where I locate the Aux. light relay depends on where the lights are to be mounted.
If they go on the hood/windshield frame the relay will probably be on the firewall,
If the Aux. lights are going on the front of the Jeep,
The relay usually winds up on the back of the Grill Shell behind one of the headlights.
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Quote:
You mentioned "armored". Can you elaborate on that.
Sure.
I run the wires through 'Rubber' fuel line often times,
Fuel line is TOUGH, cheap, bends easy and works great for protecting the longer runs of wire through sheet metal holes.

It also allows you to use clamps that I would otherwise not use with wiring.

Most of the time, I look for Adel clamps that have been rubber dipped...
No sharp edges that way, so you don't get 'Rub Through' or 'Pinch' problems.

With the 'Rubber' fuel line as 'Armor', you can use about any old kind of tubing clamp to keep your wiring run/armor safe from getting into fans, getting snagged by limbs, ect.

You can also tuck the wires up under sheet metal crimps on the body to protect them.
Keeping the wires clear of pinch points, sharp edges and high heat will be the biggest challenges!

CJs are full of sharp edges and high heat locations,
And not everyone knows what an Adel clamp or hole grommet is!
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