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Unread 05-05-2010, 03:56 AM   #1
3S00W
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SBC350 dizzy

What connects to the coil sitting on top? I only have one connection... Whats the other for? And I don't remember which one my only connector went on...

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Unread 05-05-2010, 05:50 AM   #2
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Is it a stock HEI?

If that's the case, there is a plug coming out of the base (from under the cap) that you plug right back into the cap...from there, you need to hook a ground to it where it says GND, you need a switched 12 volt source where it says 12+ and you can hook up a tach signal wire where it says C-.

Forgive me if those labels aren't exactly what they may read...it's been a minute since I've looked at one.
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Unread 05-05-2010, 09:46 AM   #3
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Yea, I got that good. But there are two plugs right under it right outside of that. Two flag prongs can plug into it but I only had one wire... I was wondering what it was. There some booty fab'n on my rig from the PO...
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Unread 05-05-2010, 02:37 PM   #4
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Oh, boy. Good ol' case of the PO booty-fab, huh?

I'm having a hard time understanding exactly what plugs you're talking about...are they coming from the distributor, or are they just coming from some unknown source and happen to be near it? I assume that the Jeep is not currently running...

Got a pic by any chance?
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Unread 05-06-2010, 07:54 AM   #5
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Okay, u mentioned the plug that shows here on the cap. That comes from the distributor... The area right in front of that I have a single wire that plugs into that area... I dunno what it does or why it plugs in there but I had written down during the disassembly that there was a wire plugged in there.
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Unread 05-06-2010, 08:08 AM   #6
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Oh, gotcha...okay, that one extra wire is supposed to be your switched 12V+ source. Take a look at the top of the cap. There should be one spade in there that is marked "BATT". That extra wire that you have should be that afore-mentioned switched 12V+ source, and it plugs into there. The other one is a tach signal, I'm almost positive that it's actually marked "TACH".

If you can lean over the dizzy, the plug should have markings that read as such:

B+BAT
GND
C-TACH

The plug that comes out of the base of the distributor takes care of the three grouped together at the left. The 12v+ switched wire plugs into the BATT spade, and if you have a tach, you can plug it where the distributor says TACH.
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Unread 05-06-2010, 08:13 AM   #7
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my man, thanks. Been googleŽn this and cant find a good answer. ur a big help, THX!
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Unread 05-06-2010, 08:17 AM   #8
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No problem at all!
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Unread 05-06-2010, 09:06 AM   #9
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hmmm... something popped when I turned it over... smell of exhaust... Did I pop the exhaust gasket already on the first turn?
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Unread 05-06-2010, 09:19 AM   #10
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Doubtful...timing may not be dead on. Did it pop through the carb or the exhaust? I'd might try giving it a little gas when you crank it up..maybe advance the timing just a tad (just bump the distributor counter-clockwise).

What were you changing when you unplugged the wiring? Are you certain that the wire you plugged back in was a 12v+?
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Unread 05-06-2010, 03:20 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter402 View Post
Doubtful...timing may not be dead on. Did it pop through the carb or the exhaust? I'd might try giving it a little gas when you crank it up..maybe advance the timing just a tad (just bump the distributor counter-clockwise).

What were you changing when you unplugged the wiring? Are you certain that the wire you plugged back in was a 12v+?
Cleaned the engine inside and put new intake mani n carb... I think it did come from the carb but not positive. Had a rag on top carb for choke. Sprayed carb cleaner down the hole.
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Unread 05-06-2010, 07:53 PM   #12
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Oh, okay. I'd try adjusting your distributor one way or the other while cranking it, giving it a little gas. I also wouldn't use a rag for a choke, because should it start up, the vacuum of the engine will pull it right on down into the manifold and potentially even into a cylinder. I would imagine that ambient air temperature is warm enough at this point you shouldn't even need a choke. My carb has no choke horn at all and I can start it in any temp at around 40 degrees or above.

I'd expect to hear a pop back through the carburetor til you get the timing close...it's nothing to worry about.

Are we running yet?
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Unread 05-06-2010, 08:22 PM   #13
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its gotta be timing
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Unread 05-06-2010, 08:53 PM   #14
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Not yet... What exactly can i do fo fix the timing? I'll get ack to it in the AM
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Unread 05-07-2010, 06:12 AM   #15
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That's as simple as turning the distributor clockwise/counterclockwise a few degrees. But first, you need to make sure that your distributor was dropped back in exactly in the same spot that it was before. I'd venture to guess that it's either a tooth or two off (which is not really a big deal, you can just dial that timing back in with a twist of the distributor) or it could possibly be 180 degrees out, in which case you'd have to pull the distributor, turn the rotor 180 degrees, then re-install.

First, make sure you've got the engine TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke of the engine. To do this, you need to bump the engine over using a remote starter switch (or a buddy at the key) with the No. 1 spark plug out of its hole, and your finger blocking the hole. Don't worry, the piston won't bite ya. When I say bump, I mean bump, as in just tap the starter. Whenever the compression stroke is coming up, air from the cylinder will force your finger off/out of the hole. That's when you should stop bumping the starter. Take a look down at the balancer for your timing marks...look for a hash mark on the balancer, it should be at or very near the 0 degree mark on your timing tab (if there is one there -- lets hope that there is). If it's slightly BEFORE top dead center, get a breaker bar (you won't be able to turn it with a regular ratchet unless you put a whole lot of hiney behind it) and a deep 5/8" socket and turn the engine by hand until the timing mark on the balancer is on 0 degrees on the timing tab. If the engine happened to land after TDC when you stopped bumping the starter, it's best to spin the engine TWICE more over (two revolutions of the engine to get back to compression stroke) instead of trying to turn it backwards with the socket.
Now that that's over, pop your distributor cap and see which way your rotor is pointing. It should be pointing down toward the No. 1 cylinder, or at least to the post that you have a wire running to the No. 1 cylinder. Most drop in their distributor with the wiring plugs pointing to the right, so that the post just below it (going clockwise) is the No. 1 cylinder.
Once checking that your rotor is pointing straight for this post on the cap, check your firing order. I'm sure you've already got that, but just for reference, it's 18436572.
Beyond that, once the engine fires up, you can time an engine by ear, if you don't happen to have a timing light. If you've got a light, (standard inductive is what I prefer) hook it up to your No. 1 spark plug wire, and the battery clamps to the battery. Point the light at the balancer/timing mark, and pull the trigger. Advance your timing til it is ~8 degrees BTDC (before top dead center). This is something that you'll have to experiment with, because different engines with different components will run more efficiently on different timing settings, depending on intake, cam, carb, exhaust, compression ratio, etc. While you're setting the mechanical timing, set it with the engine sitting at idle speed, the vacuum advance unplugged, all vacuum ports on the carburetor blocked off. You'll probably have to go back and forth adjusting your idle speed and timing til it settles in right. You might find it runs best around 10 degrees advance, maybe even up to 12. I only recommend 8 as a conservative place to start. Should you hear it start to knock/ping, STOP advancing the timing, back it off about 3 degrees, and leave it there.
If you choose to attempt to time the engine by ear, it goes just as that last line in the previous paragraph -- SLOWLY advance the timing, drop idle speed to keep it at 850-900 rpms, wherever the engine wants to run. Keep doing this until the engine just begins to ping, then back it off a few degrees, and tighten down the distributor clamp. This method, however, is NOT recommended to most since it is only a very rough guideline to get an engine running. Using an inductive timing light and vacuum gauge is the best and only real way to truly time/tune an engine.
Once you get the mechanical timing set, you can plug your vacuum advance into a timed vacuum port on the carburetor, adjust your idle mixture screws, etc.

Let us know how it goes.
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