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WJ Shackle Tabs: Tow-Hook Replacements2014 Spartan Locker Special - While Supplies Last! Dana 3FS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

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Unread 04-26-2013, 11:52 AM   #31
scrapman
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Did you drain the water ABOVE the pistons? If not, take the plugs out, turn the engine by hand to get most of the water out, and then crank it to get the rest out. Been through this many times with flooded PWC 2 stroke engines, and the quicker you get them re-started, the less damage done to the engine.

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Unread 04-26-2013, 02:32 PM   #32
gmakra
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WD 40 the W stands for Water, the D stands for Displacement and 40 is the 40th formula. It was developed in the 50s to dry rocket electronic's and that my friends is a true story. So its not a penetrating oil BTW the main component is fish oil.

So hose off your started and other stuff with it than try again.

You could have also cooked a cell if you had a direct short across your battery.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 02:58 PM   #33
82JeepCJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7ROB View Post
So if you ever need to use your E-brake while your driving you jump out of it with your chock block too? I don't see what's so hard about actually adjusting/fixing an ebrake to work properly.

The teeth are worn away in the mechanism under the dash. Since I never use it, I've learned how to either park in gear, as well as a level spot. There really is no need to get out with the motor running (Other than being lazy.)

I hardly use the clutch when starting again after shutting it off. Just touch the starter and Im rolling again. Its really not all that hard.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 03:14 PM   #34
Dadamsnv
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Man that's so crazy!

Good luck!
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Unread 04-26-2013, 03:32 PM   #35
vivimus
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So, replaced the solenoid, like I said, and the starter (which we had bench tested at o'reilly's, thing was totally fried). At least she turns over now, but can't get it to catch. the only cylinder that had water in it was #6 (strange because it was most shallow). We sucked out most with a hand pump, but it's still blowing a little out the spark plug hole (plug removed). Just picked up the "tiny attachment kit" for the shopvac to see what else we can suck up. Thanks everyone for the help so far!! I'll keep you updated...
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Unread 04-27-2013, 07:27 AM   #36
HALOjmpr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vivimus
So, replaced the solenoid, like I said, and the starter (which we had bench tested at o'reilly's, thing was totally fried). At least she turns over now, but can't get it to catch. the only cylinder that had water in it was #6 (strange because it was most shallow). We sucked out most with a hand pump, but it's still blowing a little out the spark plug hole (plug removed). Just picked up the "tiny attachment kit" for the shopvac to see what else we can suck up. Thanks everyone for the help so far!! I'll keep you updated...
Not that strange. Often the water gets in the exhaust or header. There can be a draw through there when you attempt to start and it sucks the water in, gets to the back cylinder first. Don't ever attempt to start with the tailpipe submerged. When it is running the positive pressure of the exhaust keeps the water out of the exhaust system. I try motto even be at low idle on water crossings.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 07:57 AM   #37
vivimus
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I guess that makes sense. Didn't try to start it while it was in the water, but tried once (and only once) to turn it over after we pulled it out. She turns over consistently now, we have spark, we know fuel is getting to the cylinders, and we have air (since it's not underwater anymore). We removed the distributor to get at cylinder 4 and verify everything was dry. Maybe a timing issue now? Gonna do a bit more research.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 08:14 AM   #38
HALOjmpr
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Be careful about pulling plugs to blow out cylinders and then cranking to check for spark. There will be residual fuel and fumes and a open hot spark. Guess how I know this! My ex father in law set an entire bank on fire after dunking his Nissan truck at a slippery boat ramp. OMG that was funny! (After the fact.)
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Unread 04-27-2013, 08:14 AM   #39
Pacfanweb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindKnot View Post
First thing I'd fix is the P brake.
No, the first thing ANYONE needs to learn is to park in gear. It's called an emergency brake for a reason. It's not the main method of holding the vehicle in place. 1st or reverse.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 09:08 AM   #40
vivimus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacfanweb View Post
No, the first thing ANYONE needs to learn is to park in gear. It's called an emergency brake for a reason. It's not the main method of holding the vehicle in place. 1st or reverse.
That's not entirely true...

From dictionary.com:

emergency brake
noun
1. Also called parking brake. A special brake used to prevent a motor vehicle from rolling after it has stopped or been parked.

From Wikipedia:

the parking brake, also called hand brake, emergency brake, or e-brake, is a latching brake usually used to keep the vehicle stationary.

Yeah, it's BETTER to use both, but to say that the main purpose of the brake is not to hold the vehicle in place is a bit "Holier-Than-Thou." As I said earlier, I learned the hard way and will use BOTH methods from now on. I appreciate the help I've gotten on fixing the actual problem and I'd like to keep it on topic if possible.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 12:37 PM   #41
vivimus
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OK, a recap... Jeep 1/4 submerged nose down. Drained/replaced all fluids. Removed all plugs and removed water from #6 cylinder. Removed distributor. Replaced Ignition Module. Replaced fried starter. Replaced solenoid.

Fuel is getting to the carburetor. We have strong spark in the plugs. Turning over but not starting. There is the sound of "pre-ignition" I guess you could call it (sounds like a pop or puff). This is where I'm stuck.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 12:58 PM   #42
Matt1981CJ7
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Are you sure you got the distributor back on correctly? Is the firing order correct?

If so, try turning the distributor a little, while a helper cranks it.

You've got spark, fuel, and air, timing is about all that's left.

Matt
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Unread 04-27-2013, 01:20 PM   #43
vivimus
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We tried turning the distributor and no luck. What we have now is water coming up through one of the two holes in the bottom of the air cleaner, where the ball valves dump to the exhaust (driver side valve). I don't know if this was happening all along, or if it just started. We're going to take the exhaust off and try to drain that. If that was the culprit, and we disconnected the exhaust pipe from the manifold, should we be able to start it?
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Unread 04-27-2013, 01:50 PM   #44
vivimus
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Looks like the muffler and cat are still holding water. any method to dry it out without removing them? we would have to drop the transmission crossmember, do some cutting, and take it some where to have welded back up... not looking forward to it and I would like to avoid it if possible.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 01:59 PM   #45
cdmiller2
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unbolt it at the manifold, and start it up and let it run for a while.
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