rusted nuts on shackle hangers
First off I'm new, here here's what i got '79 cj7 tore down to frame [i think this is going to be more than i thought] want to do a frame off restoration so i'm starting with frame going to sand blast and paint with por15 ordered 4.5" rubicon express lift and warrior shackle hangers but on 1 side the nuts on inside of frame rail the one at the rear is rusted out and gone and the other side i had to cut the old one off with torch and looks like the nuts are in bad shape to can i cut them off and weld in a washer and nut or what any help would be apprecaited and i sure i'm going to need a lot more thanks
Before you go any further, I would suggest investigating if the Frame itself is rusted from the inside to point of failure. Mike Romain (a poster here) just had part of his frame literally break off.
looks like the frame is good except for that i had to cut rear crossmember off because body mounts were rusted out and that's when i seen other just wondering if any body else had this problem and how they fixed it,thanks
I used SlickRock hangers on my project. They are attached with bolts that go through the frame into a plate with nuts welded onto it. So, to answer your question, you can fab up a different way to attach them.
"In the end...It's all Hack."
Both nuts on both hanger mounts on mine are rusted all to hell as well. Does anybody see any problems with gusseting the factory hangers and just welding them to frame and getting rid of the nuts and bolts?
PO welded front and back hangers to one of my CJ's, haven't had nor do I foresee any problems with this until I need to take off the front ones to install 2.5" springs. Even then, nothing an angle grinder can't handle in a few minutes.
If it is a weldable metal attached to a like piece of metal that doesn't need to move, then I see no reason why it can't be welded instead of bolted or riveted. In aerospace applications and planes/submersibles, it matters because metals need to expand/contract, but in a 25 year old Jeep that has been held together by rust and paint for the last several years, a weld is a hell of a lot better than that rotted out nut was doing for ya.
I just went through this very thing with my frame. Several of the nutserts that are inside the frame rail were rusted and came loose. I ended up drilling a small hole on opposite ends of the bolt hole so that I could weld a serrated flange nut on the inside of the frame. If you have to replace your rear cross member, you could address the nut problem when the cross member is off. Otherwise, you won't be able to access it easily. I recommend checking all of your nutserts throughout the frame before you apply the POR-15. It might keep you from having to redo some of your work.
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