I don't have a clue as to all the physics above, bit I'm with Matt on the phosphoric acid product. I have used it exclusively and have been very happy first on the engine and drive train then body and accessories. I now keep a bottle for general home use and to lend to friends who don't know about it.
Earning an engineering degree one CJ7 hiccup at a time
my brother-in-law told me to get "De-natured Alcohol" and spray that on the area that you wire wheel rust off of... I haven't tried it yet so we will see if it does anything.
Alcohol absorbs an amazing amount of water, I sure wouldn't be using it on raw steel. I would be expecting it to cause rust. Could be wrong, but.
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
I took my entire CJ down to bare metal between 2008-2010 using wire wheels, flap discs, medial blasting and some secret voodoo chit an old man told me about.
Coated everything with SPI epoxy primer and most everything was stored inside my house.
Followed it up with 2K primer, Evercoat filler and finished with PPG DBC base and SPI Universal Clear.
All mainstream good work procedures as far as I know.
Both front fenders have rust returning and I had access to *both* sides of the fenders. I was not surprised to see a rust bubble on the windshield frame and the rear of the tub below the tailgate where I did not have access to the back side of the metal. The fenders on the other hand should not have rust returning this soon. I have thought about this for a few years and want to take additional steps to prevent this on the Cherokee.
Based on what I have read, I believe I should have used a rust converter on the metal prior to priming.
Further, I think it would be important to coat the back side of the metal wherever possible, the A-pillars on the Cherokee are a major concern for me. I am planning to load a rust converter in a chemical sprayer, the air pressurized insecticide/herbicide type and spray the inaccessible spaces. In the A-pillars, I may have to swap the wand tip to a hose and feed it into the pillar but I will make sure that converter is running out and puddling on the floor or the ground before I call it good.
I'd like to add my experience to this thread. Like many of you, I have limited time to work on my jeep project. So rather than spending time sandblasting, I decided to try a molasses bath. Yes, it takes 2-3 weeks but I have plenty of other things on my list I can do.
I needed an appropriate container. Something big enough for a fender, maybe a door or a bumper too. I had previously built a workbench (on castors and one side open). This was an obvious choice. I just enclosed the 4th side, added a hinge to the top and bought a pond liner. It took a little finesse to get the corners folded to make the most of the space. I lined the bottom with some HF cushy pads and the sides with oil drip pans. I also had some homemade wood lattice type thingamagiggys (to keep stuff off the cement floor) hanging around and put that on top of the pads. I placed each item on the lattice and then filled it up to a 9or10 to 1 ratio of water to feed-grade molasses. I think it came out to around 110 gallons.
I've been using the molasses bath to take rust off of older tools and even some steel traps and it has worked with excellent results. As far as I'm concerned it does a better job than sandblasting even. You won't always get all of the rust with sandblasting especially if the metal is deeply pitted but if you leave the metal in this solution long enough all of the rust will be gone.
I've been using muriatic acid to clean up rusty nuts and bolts. If works amazing. I make sure to where my rubber gloves and always take the tub outside. It keeps just fine in a plastic tub ( but away from tools bc the fumes will buiLd surface rust on tools.) Is relatively cheap. $15 a gallon at Lowes and when your finished you can neutralize it with baking soda for disposal.