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#1 | |||
Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Wilmington, NC Posts: 174 | Rust Control Has anyone used this product line?
__________________ 1984 CJ8 258, Weber, daystar 1" body mounts, 31X10.5 on stock wheels. Name "400" Last edited by littleturner76 : 09-18-2009 at 04:27 AM.Reason: i cant spell good | ||
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| #2 | |
Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 270 | I've used KBS coatings 'frame kit' on my frame, and base coat on my tub. It's a quality product like POR-15 & Eastwoods. KBS has the same precautions, don't get this stuff on your skin, wear old throwaway clothes, etc. 'cause it doesn't come off. It's been close to two years since applied, and it still looks great. Later, T.J. __________________ '79 CJ5 258 w/MC 2100 & Team Rushed, NP435/Dana300 <--twin sticked, NT Dana 44 (w/Aussie) rear, and NT Dana 44. 3" susp lift, Currie shackles, 1" body Lift, Durabaked tub inside & out. Military members (current or completed service) check out http://www.militaryjeepers.com/ |
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| #3 | ||
Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Wilmington, NC Posts: 174 | Quote:
__________________ 1984 CJ8 258, Weber, daystar 1" body mounts, 31X10.5 on stock wheels. Name "400" | |
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| #4 | |
Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 270 | I wire wheeled the entire tub, used the three stage Chassis kit Chassis Paint Kit - KBS All-In-One Chassis Kit - KBS Coatings ; prewash, metal prep, then applied paint with a brush/roller, here's a couple of pics; ![]() ![]() I painted the chassis, tub (inside & out), fenders, hood, bumpers and windshield frame (I have more pics). The main thing with this type of paint is to do ALL of the prep work, however painstaking it may be, and READ the instructions twice before starting. (That advice is for any of the rust preventive sealer paints.) Later, T.J. __________________ '79 CJ5 258 w/MC 2100 & Team Rushed, NP435/Dana300 <--twin sticked, NT Dana 44 (w/Aussie) rear, and NT Dana 44. 3" susp lift, Currie shackles, 1" body Lift, Durabaked tub inside & out. Military members (current or completed service) check out http://www.militaryjeepers.com/ |
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| #5 | |
Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Wilmington, NC Posts: 174 | looks great, do you have to use the blacktop finish coat or could I use just the rust seal and keep it silver? Did one quart cover you entire tub? __________________ 1984 CJ8 258, Weber, daystar 1" body mounts, 31X10.5 on stock wheels. Name "400" |
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| #6 | ||
Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 270 | Quote:
The 'Blacktop' is a UV final paint for bumpers, and frame areas that will see alot of the sun, it's a final cover for those of us that want a black satin finish. The rust sealer needs to be topped so it doesn't chalk/fade, so Yes, the silver paint should do very well, there is information in the booklet for final coating prep of the KBS. If you are shooting the tub a quart should work, remember I brushed, and I was very anal on covering everything (I think that's the military in me), so I used more than I probably should have. It did go farther than I thought it would go, which was a nice surprise. Later, T.J. __________________ '79 CJ5 258 w/MC 2100 & Team Rushed, NP435/Dana300 <--twin sticked, NT Dana 44 (w/Aussie) rear, and NT Dana 44. 3" susp lift, Currie shackles, 1" body Lift, Durabaked tub inside & out. Military members (current or completed service) check out http://www.militaryjeepers.com/ | |
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| #7 | |
Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Wilmington, NC Posts: 174 | thanks Javatee I just spoke with the online support and the black is the only UV top coat they offer. I was told to use the rust seal as the primer and then paint with a quality automotive paint. Said I could clear coat it but that it would "yellow" over time. Thanks for the info __________________ 1984 CJ8 258, Weber, daystar 1" body mounts, 31X10.5 on stock wheels. Name "400" |
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