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Unread 10-11-2011, 07:08 PM   #1
7179CJ5
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1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
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runs 5 minutes then dies

been having an issue keeping my cj running. since i don't have a chance to drive it but about twice a month, i do start it every weekend and let it idle, however, once i get it started it wants to die only after a few minutes. then i start it again, and the same thing happens, this will continue. Only when i take it out on the road and run it for awhile will it stop, but some times it will even kill when driving it. but it usually starts right back up. Has anybody else had this issue? any suggestions as to why this might happen? any suggestions as to how i can fix it?

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Unread 10-11-2011, 07:30 PM   #2
78treehugger
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fuel filter would be my first checkpoint
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Unread 10-11-2011, 07:46 PM   #3
7179CJ5
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checked that, working fine. recently brought it to a local mechanic to see if he can do something with it. He said that he checked everything out and adjusted the carb, however, it ran fine for him. that's bout right, murphy's law.....
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Unread 10-11-2011, 07:57 PM   #4
okjeep98
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if you have an electric choke you might check that. After it runs for 5 minutes and dies try holding the choke plate open with a piece of wire or something. Choke might not be opening when engine warms up.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 08:12 PM   #5
mopar346
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When it dies does it cut right off or stubble and go down gradually? Can you peddle through it even in the garage? When you restart it, does it start right up? Does it spin a bit before firing up? do you have to pump the gas to get it to restart or can you turn the key without touching the gas and restarts? These answers can help narrow it down. WARNING: more questions will probably follow after these are answered.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 09:03 PM   #6
7179CJ5
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when it dies, it just cuts off no stubbling. don't peddle through it since i have no warning it's about to kill. when i am driving on the road and it kills i can usually start it right up again, when i'm letting it idle it will take a few cranks and pumping the gas, however, sometimes i think i flood the carb since i smell gas, when that happens i usually let it sit a few minutes before trying it again. if it is the choke plate that is not opening how can it be fixed? are we talking new carb?
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Unread 10-11-2011, 09:11 PM   #7
okjeep98
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If you determine your choke is not opening: The choke can easily be adjusted. First make sure you are getting key on power to the choke. If you don't have a manual u can find online how to adjust it. If can't find a manual I could maybe email you the pertinent pages of mine.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 09:20 PM   #8
7179CJ5
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i have recently brought it to a mechanic who adjusted the carb somewhat. if i remember correctly he said some thing about the damper not working, which was allowing the carb to flood and burn rich, which in turn was causing alot of carbon buildup on my plugs. does this sound right?
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Unread 10-11-2011, 09:28 PM   #9
mopar346
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Chokes can be adjusted/repaired. Take the air cleaner off and watch the carb as to is running and stall, OBVIOUSLY at idle. You can watch the choke to see if it is staying closed after warm up. I suspect your carb may be loading up due to a float being stuck too high or your needle and seat may be stuck. You may notice while it is running heavy black smoke from the tail pipe, you may actually be able to see fuel dumping heavily into the throttle bore (carb opening) before it dies. As soon as it dies grab the throttle linkage and stroke it while looking down the throttle bore (far enough away so that you don't get any fuel in your eyes or burn your eye braws if it backfires) what you are watching for is fuel squirting into the bore from the accelerator pump, if it squirts you have eliminated a down stream fuel supply problem for the most part. Next I would hold the pedal to the floor and spin it over until it starts, like when one is flooded, watch for heavy smoke out of the tailpipe upon fire up. If so it supports what I suspect about loading up. It sometimes canbe cured by simply tapping the fuel bowl area wear the line comes in with the handle of a screwdriver, hard enough to jar it loose but not hard enough to damage anything (which would be hard with plastic handle screwdriver). If it is predictible I would try this and see if it corrects the trouble if it returns you may need togo in it and clean it out. This can be somewhat of a common problem with vehicles that sit. I have also seen cases although rare, ESPECIALLY if it is pretty much stock, were the fuel pump is creating enough pressure to over power the needle and seat, this situation usually last well beyond normal start up.

Hope this gives you something to work with, if you would report back after you check it. Good luck.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 11:06 PM   #10
1986cj
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I have had this happen also on my 77 Ford F250 truck. Darn thing would be going down the road and it would die like I had turned the key off. It never stumbled, just now you are running and now you are not. It always would start right back up but it got troublesome after a while. Not on any time frame and maybe not for a week or two then bam, dead in the water. Well one day it did it and would not start up. Checked for fuel and spark, no spark. Replace the control module and never had a problem after that. It uses the same one as my Jeep does. Just another area to check into.
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Unread 10-13-2011, 03:19 PM   #11
7179CJ5
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thanks for the infor guys, this weekend, (after LSU beats the Vol's) ill get my hands dirty with it. The control module was replaced already, hopefully that's not it, but with the cheap parts out there these days you never know. I think it will turn out to be a fuel problem. No smoke at all from the exhust, but it does sound as if it is popping, backfirering, nothing loud, it sounds muffled. Once again thanks for the help. Can anybody tell me how i can put something on the classified?
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Unread 10-13-2011, 08:22 PM   #12
guysnydr
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I don't want to scare you but my CJ7 with 258 was doing same thing! Just cut off all of the sudden, many times when I was driving down the road. I would just dump the clutch, hit the key and it would always fire right back up. Was a real pain and I never did figure out what caused it. I started replacing a part at a time hoping I would get it narrowed down, I replaced the control box, then coil, then electronic pickup in the distributor, then the whole distributor, then cap/rotor, plugs, wires. I never did get it figured out! It was really aggrivating. I wanted to do a 350 chevy swap anyway, I got so frustrated I moved my plans forward and yanked out the whole stinkin' motor. Really pissed me off. Once I did the SBC swap it never happened again! I really think it was in the wiring somewhere, maybe one those couple bigger round plugs that get corroded. I don't know.

I know this is no help to you probably but this issue is an issue, there have been alot of posts about this problem. Some guys have gotten lucky and replaced the control box with success but alot seem to be more complicated.

Brings back bad memories actually ... Good luck with it, I hope yours is simple and easily tracked down.
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Unread 10-13-2011, 08:49 PM   #13
madjeepist
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spark control modules were famous for doing just that!!
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Unread 10-13-2011, 09:40 PM   #14
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madjeepist
spark control modules were famous for doing just that!!
+1
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Unread 10-13-2011, 10:46 PM   #15
Rollbar
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Peaches jeep did that for a week until I figured out it was the pick-up in the distributor.

Note: when/if you change it out, there is a little roller pin, don't loose it or drop it. About the size of a ball point pen head when it comes out of the pen. It should just slide right up (the pick-up) and grab under it holding the pin.

Jim
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