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Unread 03-13-2015, 12:05 AM   #1
Cutlass327
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Rugged Ridge heavy duty steering kit, reviews?

Looking at this, is it worth the money??

http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-1...productDetails

I am upgrading to WT axles, and want to start with new parts...

Already getting MOOG balljoints, will put in new Spicer u-joints, and swap on my 78's knuckles for the 6 bolt hubs and brake parts...

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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 03-13-2015, 06:20 AM   #2
peters
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Likely, true DOM is friggin expensive and strong, plus all the leg work is done and it comes with ends. seems legit
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Unread 03-13-2015, 06:30 AM   #3
orange150
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I've got it on mine, very beefy. Came as advertised with everything I needed. I would recommend it as an easy steering upgrade.

Edit: I will say though you will have to figure out a new way to mount your steering stabilizer. I'm currently not running one because I just haven't gotten that far yet...
img_0515.jpg   img_0516.jpg   img_0518.jpg   img_0519.jpg   img_0520.jpg  

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Unread 03-13-2015, 07:25 AM   #4
thirstybob
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I have it as well. Looks much beefier than stock and no issues.
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Unread 03-13-2015, 08:16 AM   #5
j33pman
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I run this setup also. Much stronger than the stock tie rod drag link combo
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Unread 03-13-2015, 09:20 AM   #6
dirtdudeaz
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If you had a welder, you can build your own for a little cheaper. I went this route.

I got the bungs/nuts from Speedwaymotors ($10 per bung; 4 needed, and $2 per nut; 4-8 needed). The metal I got from the local steel shop (1-1/4 OD DOM (1" ID)) for about $70, and then the tie rods were Moog. So I guess it was about $120 minus the tie rod ends. I went with the stock 11/16 size TRE's, and MOOG seem to be plenty strong in that size, so I didn't feel the need to go larger.

Some guys on here also use the bigdaddyoffroad parts too.
http://www.bigdaddyoffroad.com/produ...products_id=67

While you are there, you may also consider doing the tie rod flip. Not trying to tell you how to spend your money, but it helps with clearance and corrects steering arm angles if you have any sort of lift. For this, I went with the goferit kit.
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Unread 03-13-2015, 10:13 AM   #7
skizriz
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The one thing I didn't like about my RR setup was that the ends have metric threads. Other than that its a beefy setup.
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Unread 03-13-2015, 10:18 AM   #8
Jim1611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skizriz View Post
The one thing I didn't like about my RR setup was that the ends have metric threads. Other than that its a beefy setup.
So if you need to replace the rod ends the factory ones won't fit.
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Unread 03-13-2015, 01:56 PM   #9
skizriz
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So if you need to replace the rod ends the factory ones won't fit.
Nope. Need to buy them from RR. I learned when I bought some 7/8" (or was it 3/4?) ends, and they wouldn't thread in. Checked the thread count, and sure enough, it's different.
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Unread 03-13-2015, 02:22 PM   #10
j33pman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skizriz View Post
Nope. Need to buy them from RR. I learned when I bought some 7/8" (or was it 3/4?) ends, and they wouldn't thread in. Checked the thread count, and sure enough, it's different.
This is the only drawback I have found to this setup, but how often do you really change tie rod ends?
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Unread 03-13-2015, 03:24 PM   #11
Jim1611
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Originally Posted by j33pman View Post
This is the only drawback I have found to this setup, but how often do you really change tie rod ends?
Under normal use you won't change them often. My thinking is that I'd rather be able to go to the local parts store and buy what I need. Suppose it's Saturday and you broke one the day before. You could get the factory style one at the parts store but if you used the RR assembly you can't. Unless the parts store can cross reference the broken one and has it. I just like the idea of easy to get parts.
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Unread 03-13-2015, 03:28 PM   #12
Erik719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skizriz View Post
Nope. Need to buy them from RR. I learned when I bought some 7/8" (or was it 3/4?) ends, and they wouldn't thread in. Checked the thread count, and sure enough, it's different.
Could you re thread it?
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Unread 03-13-2015, 05:12 PM   #13
jeepwhore
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I find it hard to believe they would make their own specific ends. I would bet they are a toyota application (possibly FJ80) as that is a common upgrade in those circles and they are metric thread. Does anyone have a RR end they can snap a pic of.....just curious if they have a brand stamped on the top.
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Unread 03-13-2015, 05:33 PM   #14
skizriz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore View Post
I find it hard to believe they would make their own specific ends. I would bet they are a toyota application (possibly FJ80) as that is a common upgrade in those circles and they are metric thread. Does anyone have a RR end they can snap a pic of.....just curious if they have a brand stamped on the top.
I have some RR ends, and some big GM ends, I'll go get some pictures for comparison.

Here's what I found. A what I believe to be a YJ end will fit the RR rods. 11/16 and not metric ????

RR end...


YJ(?) end...It will thread in, I tried it.


Big GM end....Kind on hard to see, but .86 and some change.(if I remember correctly)


Puny stock CJ end...
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Unread 03-14-2015, 01:04 AM   #15
streetpro
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Thanks boots are crap, cracked to hell in a year. Stout rod that took a hard shot though.
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