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Unread 05-24-2011, 11:13 AM   #1
Blue83CJ7
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Rough Country Install Coming Up This weekend

This may turn into my build thread but I stupidly sold my "dream CJ" a few years ago (blue one in my profile) so I am trying to rebuild this clunker into what my old one was, and step one is the lift.


I am not too concerned with the install alone, but I am finding more and more rust and other issues with my jeep, and I am also worried I will need to fix some frame rust, get longer brake lines, driveshafts, wheels tires that I wasn't planning on doing on the short term, as I only drive around the neighborhood until I get alot of stuff addressed.

I hit everything with PB blaster every night this week, and will let you guys know how it goes. I hope I didn't kick the hornets nest on this one, and I hope it works out OK or the wife won't let me get any parts for a long time.


img00012-20110524-0952.jpg

img00010-20110524-0951.jpg

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Unread 05-28-2011, 11:21 PM   #2
Blue83CJ7
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First Complaint, and first question:

Complaint: The packaging, aka the stickers, all over the springs are a PITA! Took me about 2 hours to scrape them off with a razor blade, and now I have to keep scraping the sticky off of them and paint them so they don't rust where I scraped a little too hard... I through for a second I might file a claim with UPS for damage or complain to RC, but I doubt either would make a difference, and I wanted to put it on this weekend since I have no other time off in the near future.

Question: Anyone know why I have 4 main (larger) bushing halves with flutes, and 4 without? Do the fluted ones go on the front spring or the back, or did they just screw it up? Instructions say nothing about this...

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Unread 05-29-2011, 05:47 AM   #3
Skerr
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Good luck with the install. Test fit all of your bushings. Rear springs are wider than the front, so make sure you accomodate those spring eyes first.
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Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 05-29-2011, 06:36 AM   #4
gojeepin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue83CJ7 View Post
... Question: Anyone know why I have 4 main (larger) bushing halves with flutes, and 4 without? Do the fluted ones go on the front spring or the back, or did they just screw it up? Instructions say nothing about this...
The bushing "flange" will be thicker for the front springs. The spring mount on the frame is the same width as the rear but the spring is .5" narrower.
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Unread 05-29-2011, 07:03 AM   #5
Patter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gojeepin View Post
The bushing "flange" will be thicker for the front springs. The spring mount on the frame is the same width as the rear but the spring is .5" narrower.
Correct. ^^
Also the fluted bushings should go to the shackle end of the spring. The non fluted should be at the solid frame mount. I think there is a steel sleeve that slides into those? Then the mounting bolts through the sleeves.
Mine had them.
And. I can't really tell by the pics, but. If the wraps on the ends of the springs are different diameters on the o.d.
The bigger one mounts to the frame. Other (smaller) to the shackle.
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Unread 05-29-2011, 07:46 AM   #6
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gojeepin View Post
The bushing "flange" will be thicker for the front springs. The spring mount on the frame is the same width as the rear but the spring is .5" narrower.
Exactly! I couldn't think how to say it! Thanks...
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"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 05-29-2011, 08:05 AM   #7
Truck633
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Only thing I can recommend is don't over squeeze the bushings at the shackles. I did the exact same lift and the only issue that I couldn't deal with was the rear driveshaft. To fix the problem I rolled the diff to where it pointed almost directly at the Tcase (shimmed at the housing saddles) and had a double cardan driveshaft built. Other than that and the fact that it is rougher than a cob!! I am pretty happy with it. I had one spring relax a little in the rear and the inevitable "Jeep Lean" is slowly coming back, but nothing I can't deal with later!!
Good luck and post "after" pics..

Tom
0331001443.jpg   0331001730a.jpg   0331002023.jpg   0331002024.jpg   0409000929.jpg  

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Unread 05-29-2011, 08:55 AM   #8
Blue83CJ7
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Thanks guys... I probably would have figured that out after a few hours of wondering why the bushing's didn't fit, haha. Glad I asked, and thanks for the info.

Going out now to get started


Truck 633 - Do you have narrow track or wide track axles? Yours is exactly how I want mine to look... If narrow track, what backspacing/spacers did you need to fit 35s?

I am ready for the rough ride, I just hope my frame tub & crusty wiring can handle it!
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Unread 05-29-2011, 09:12 AM   #9
johnsom5
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Let us know how it all turns out. Got my 4" soft ride lift Friday and, if I have time, might install it this week. Did your kit come with a transfer case lowering kit? Supposedly mine does, but I don't know exactly how it works. Too busy to open up all the boxes this weekend.
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Unread 05-29-2011, 09:16 AM   #10
Blue83CJ7
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Originally Posted by johnsom5 View Post
Let us know how it all turns out. Got my 4" soft ride lift Friday and, if I have time, might install it this week. Did your kit come with a transfer case lowering kit? Supposedly mine does, but I don't know exactly how it works. Too busy to open up all the boxes this weekend.
It did come with a bag of 6 "pucks" to drop the case (loosen all bolts with jack holding the skid the tilt the skid to install side one pucks, then switch), but I am worried that my valve cover will hit the firewall if I lower the tcase with the engine now angled back a little bit more... I remember it hitting on my last CJ, but I had an aftermarket valve cover

Also worried my skid bolts /nut-serts will strip out.
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Unread 05-29-2011, 09:25 AM   #11
johnsom5
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Hmmm, I was afraid it involved tilting everything down. Wouldn't that mean the angle coming from the tc to the front dif will be off then and the rear dif will have to be pointed up? I need a new front shaft anyway, but not another excuse to purchase double cardan shafts! Buying a lift, wheels, and tires in one weekend kind of kills the wallet!
Well, get to work, good luck, and try to take some pics.
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Unread 05-29-2011, 10:47 AM   #12
gojeepin
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I point this out a lot to folks but I haven't got pictures... only drawings. There's a good example in post #7.
The drop pitman arm is a lot shorter than the stock one.
pitman-arm-length-picture.jpg  
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Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read: Steering, suspension, and driveline basics. An article on how it works and where to look for problems.

83 CJ7, 4.1L 6cyl (4.0L bored .030" over), 35" tires, T-5 transmission, Dana 300 TC, Trussed AMC 20.
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Unread 05-29-2011, 12:04 PM   #13
ErikEastman
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Looks like your sway bar links are two different lengths??
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Unread 05-29-2011, 05:23 PM   #14
Blue83CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikEastman View Post
Looks like your sway bar links are two different lengths??
No, that's just the pic. They are the same length in real life :-)


Update coming soon, but anyone know if the longer shocks go in the back or the front?
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Unread 05-29-2011, 05:50 PM   #15
johnsom5
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I'm pretty sure the longer shocks go in the rear.
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