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Unread 12-15-2011, 09:26 AM   #31
Matt1981CJ7
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Addicted,

Considering the roll bar is only connected to 2 thin pieces of 16 ga. sheet metal, I'm not real confident of the factory design, either. I doubt a couple of large diameter stainless washers would compromise safety too much.

I could be wrong.

Matt

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Unread 12-15-2011, 11:31 AM   #32
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Here's what I came up with for the brace under the roll bar.

As you can see, the U-channeled brace is open to collect mud and road grime from the tires. This crud ends up right underneath the roll bar. So, not only does this area collect crap from the inside, it gets a double whammy of crap from the outside, as well. No wonder it rots!!

So, I fab'd a simple end-cap for the brace. I extended the sheet metal of the end-cap all the way under the mounting bolts of the roll bar. Now, the grime can't collect in the brace, and I have an extra layer of metal to support the roll bar.

I just have to re-drill the mounting holes thru my patch, and I can move to other side. Yay!

Matt
rollbarbrace1.jpg   rollbarbrace2.jpg  
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Unread 12-15-2011, 11:39 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1881CJ7 View Post
Addicted,

Considering the roll bar is only connected to 2 thin pieces of 16 ga. sheet metal, I'm not real confident of the factory design, either. I doubt a couple of large diameter stainless washers would compromise safety too much.

I could be wrong.

Matt
One big flat foot disperses the weight of an impact a lot more then four small points, it's all about surface area.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 11:59 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by addicted2dunes View Post
One big flat foot disperses the weight of an impact a lot more then four small points, it's all about surface area.
I understand the principle. But, since the flush-mounted design causes the sheet-metal to rot under the roll bar, the strength of the mount inherently gets compromised anyway.

I think I would rather have a rot-free connection, that may be slightly weaker, than a rotten connection, again, later on.

Just my opinion.

Matt
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Unread 12-18-2011, 09:20 AM   #35
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I have a question about the welding. I have the same rot and I want to tackle this repair. ( you have convinced me I can do it) Great pictures showing the tacked in repair piece . Then you jump ahead to nicely ground finished repair. What happens in between? Do you just filling between the spot welds with more spot weld until it is completely welded in place and then grind smooth?
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Unread 12-18-2011, 09:56 AM   #36
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I have a question about the welding. I have the same rot and I want to tackle this repair. ( you have convinced me I can do it) Great pictures showing the tacked in repair piece . Then you jump ahead to nicely ground finished repair. What happens in between? Do you just filling between the spot welds with more spot weld until it is completely welded in place and then grind smooth?
Yes, you weld the panel completely in. You want to jump back and forth all around the edges doing small weld tacks as to not overheat the sheetmetal and warp it. When it's all welded in I like to take a flap disc to do the grinding because it's quick at removing the weld but doesn't dig into the surrounding metal as bad as a regular disc, it also doesn't build up a lot of heat.
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Unread 12-18-2011, 11:25 AM   #37
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Dunes, If you would post a picture of what you call a flap disc, I believe I know but I would like to verify. I believe you are referring to a flexable disc on an air grinder used in body work. Am I correct?

Thanks.
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Unread 12-18-2011, 11:27 AM   #38
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Flap disc:

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Unread 12-18-2011, 11:39 AM   #39
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Got it, thanks
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Unread 12-19-2011, 07:10 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njrob View Post
I have a question about the welding. I have the same rot and I want to tackle this repair. ( you have convinced me I can do it) Great pictures showing the tacked in repair piece . Then you jump ahead to nicely ground finished repair. What happens in between? Do you just filling between the spot welds with more spot weld until it is completely welded in place and then grind smooth?
Yep, that's pretty much it. I grind the spot welds down periodically as I'm welding because it helps me to see the unfilled spots better.

I use a cutoff disc in the my grinder to remove the majority of material, then switch to an 80 grit flap disc to grind it flush. The cutoff disc is a lot faster and it doesn't heat the patch as much as the flap disc.

Here is a series of pics on a patch I did near the Jeep logo.

Good luck!

Matt
patch2-2.jpg   patch2-3.jpg   patch2-4.jpg   patch2-5.jpg   patch2-6.jpg  

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Unread 12-19-2011, 07:23 AM   #41
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And here's the front panel:
patch2-7.jpg   patch2-8.jpg   patch2-9.jpg   patch2-10.jpg  
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Unread 12-19-2011, 08:38 AM   #42
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easy welding

You guys make it look easy Thanks
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Unread 12-19-2011, 03:17 PM   #43
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You guys make it look easy Thanks
It's really not that difficult. I first researched and watched several how-to videos, then I bought my welder 2 weeks ago. I practiced with it for about a day, then started cutting holes in my CJ. The above patch was my very first welding attempt ever, aside from practice.

Cutting and fitting the patch pieces tightly is the biggest challenge for me. I'm using a combination of a sawsall and my grinder to make the cuts. I know there are better tools for the job, but that's all I have.

Just jump in and go for it. Trust me, I had a puckered you-know-what on the first couple of cuts I made to my CJ, but now I actually look forward to getting all the cancer removed and replaced with nice clean steel.

Matt
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Unread 12-19-2011, 03:27 PM   #44
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I am pretty happy how mine turned out, I did it all myself so that was the big thing for me. Here is the finished product after the monstaliner.


This is what I started with after cutting out the rot, if I can do it I am pretty sure anyone can. Good luck.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 03:37 PM   #45
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wlawyer,

Nice work!!

Did you paint your patch before the bed-liner? Also, how have you liked the Monstaliner? It seems to have a lot smoother texture than some of the others.

Matt
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