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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~Advance Adapters SYE Kits

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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:31 PM   #16
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar346 View Post
I use chemically treat the metal cause I cant spell Ozphos, Osophate, OZphosphoruos, I mean Metal Prep. You get the idea, Home Depot has it for about $15 a gallon and it is the same stuff as the $30 a guart stuff. Most say to wash it off with water after a few hours, but I prefer to lightly sand blast it, just cant take the thought of water on bare metal.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
Perfect. Thanks!!

Matt

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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:33 PM   #17
mopar346
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We used Raptor and although it is textured it is fairly smooth/comfortable on the skin. Some brands liners can be thinned to soften the texture.
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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:42 PM   #18
BagusJeep
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IMHO don't use bed liner, it is not perfect and hides problems and you can achieve better long term protection with paint and regular inspection / recoating.

My CJ is open and sees 2" of rain some days. It has patches under those bars and receives paint every 2 years.
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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:43 PM   #19
addicted2dunes
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I used Raptor too. I love the stuff, make sure you prep it very well before applying though.



Close up:

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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:47 PM   #20
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Another thing that I have done when welding a flat piece to a ribbed piece is to cut the repalcement piece with tabs at the rib locations. This allows for a piece to fold down into the rib and be welded for a good seal.
I have also used a wood die (back side) and a socket. You set the metal in a carved spot in wood and wack a socket into the groove with the sheetmetal in between the socket and wood die. Stretches the metal into a dimple and works nice and smooth. Just have to do it at a little angle to have it go from big to small.
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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:59 PM   #21
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When I was taught wedling on vehicles it was number one to cut back to clean thick metal, everything else was secondary.

On a tub you could weld but brazing is just as good. Your welds do not need to be continuous but a grind down afterwards is a good idea.

If you put indents in yours, and I do as it makes the patch stronger, consider putting in more drain holes. Water will accumulate back there as there is a lack of drainage holes. Water does not matter as long as it does not sit there.

And CAR-PETS. Darn fancy pants things are nothing but a recipe for rust.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 06:22 AM   #22
Matt1981CJ7
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I used Raptor too. I love the stuff, make sure you prep it very well before applying though.
Addicted,

The Raptor does look nice. I assume those pics were taken when it was just completed. How long have you had it on, and does it still look the same, or has it faded?

I have to admit, the bed-liner approach is alluring. My intent was to restore my CJ to original, but I'm quickly finding out the factory's way of doing certain things wasn't necessarily the best. At least, I could be a little less picky about my patch welds, if I use the bed-liner.

I'm a little embarrassed to admit that I actually like my carpeting. I never let it get wet, and I routinely pull it out and clean underneath. It has spared my original paint job from scratches for 30 years, and it makes the Jeep much more comfortable to drive in. I feel like I'm driving a tin can without it.

I guess I'll make that call when I finish the painting.

Matt
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Unread 12-15-2011, 07:35 AM   #23
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The reason I went with Raptor is the reports from long time users in Florida that said it didn't fade in our sun. It also helped immensely with road noise.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 07:51 AM   #24
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Addicted,

The Raptor does look nice. I assume those pics were taken when it was just completed. How long have you had it on, and does it still look the same, or has it faded?

I have to admit, the bed-liner approach is alluring. My intent was to restore my CJ to original, but I'm quickly finding out the factory's way of doing certain things wasn't necessarily the best. At least, I could be a little less picky about my patch welds, if I use the bed-liner.

I'm a little embarrassed to admit that I actually like my carpeting. I never let it get wet, and I routinely pull it out and clean underneath. It has spared my original paint job from scratches for 30 years, and it makes the Jeep much more comfortable to drive in. I feel like I'm driving a tin can without it.

I guess I'll make that call when I finish the painting.

Matt
The coating still looks the same and it's been a little over a year now.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 08:24 AM   #25
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The coating still looks the same and it's been a little over a year now.
Good to know. I'm definitely swaying that way.

How did you handle keeping all the mounting holes from filling up? How about the tranny cover plate, did you do that separately? Also, where did you terminate the Raptor in the rear?

Sorry for all my questions, but I'm a little bored while I wait for the garage to heat up.

Matt
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Unread 12-15-2011, 08:32 AM   #26
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Good to know. I'm definitely swaying that way.

How did you handle keeping all the mounting holes from filling up? How about the tranny cover plate, did you do that separately? Also, where did you terminate the Raptor in the rear?

Sorry for all my questions, but I'm a little bored while I wait for the garage to heat up.

Matt
I have a ton of junk bolts and set screws I just threaded into the holes, painted, then removed and threw the old bolts away. Yes, the trans plate was pulled off and done separately. Terminate in the tailgate opening? At the tailgate I just went all the way to where the metal makes a sharp 90* bend to the outside body. As for everywhere else I went under the lip of the edges of the body. I don't like the look of the bedliner across the top of the rails or the door openings.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 08:59 AM   #27
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I've wondered before if it would help reduce the chance of rust and still be as strong if you were to mount the cage on spacers so water would just drain under the roll bar. Similar to the way wooden columns are often installed so they don't rot as easily.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 09:02 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2dunes View Post
I have a ton of junk bolts and set screws I just threaded into the holes, painted, then removed and threw the old bolts away. Yes, the trans plate was pulled off and done separately. Terminate in the tailgate opening? At the tailgate I just went all the way to where the metal makes a sharp 90* bend to the outside body. As for everywhere else I went under the lip of the edges of the body. I don't like the look of the bedliner across the top of the rails or the door openings.
Yeah, I would think bed-liner would play he11 on door seals, too.

Thanks for all your help. I think the garage is almost warm enough to not see my breath. So I better get to work.

Matt
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Unread 12-15-2011, 09:07 AM   #29
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I've wondered before if it would help reduce the chance of rust and still be as strong if you were to mount the cage on spacers so water would just drain under the roll bar. Similar to the way wooden columns are often installed so they don't rot as easily.
Great minds think alike!

The only downfall I can see is you may have to re-drill the upper bolt holes. Actually, now that I think about it, I believe the mounting plates have elongated holes, so they may work without re-drilling.

I like the idea!!

Matt
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Unread 12-15-2011, 09:11 AM   #30
addicted2dunes
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Then your rollbar safety impact is spread out on multiple small feet. The big plate on the bottom (feet) was designed like that to spread the load of the impact if rolled.
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