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Unread 02-17-2013, 11:53 AM   #1
nacheswheelin
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Yesterday as I was warming up my jeep I was doing my pre-trip walk around. I saw the rear pumpkin was leaking so I crawled underneath. First I checked the pinion seal then moved to the diff cover. I had found the leak and the diff cover was pushed out not in. At this point I was very nervous that my gears were somehow ruined. When I pulled the diff cover they were fine, no chips or cracks. As I was rotating them for inspection I noticed that one ring bolt was gone and another was loose so I re-torqued them and they were all loose. The gear pattern was still good and I know on initial setup I torqued the bolts exactly to spec and I followed the torque pattern. I was thinking of pulling the bolts and using a lot of red locktite, I'll probably replace the lock washers also. I've heard your not supposed to reuse the bolts, can you reuse them? Has anyone heard of the ring bolts falling out like this? If I can reuse them should I replace the missing one with grade 5 standard etc? The old one looked like grade 5.
Thanks.

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Unread 02-17-2013, 11:59 AM   #2
80cj
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You mention lock washers. Don't use them. They lose tension or crack and then you end up with loose bolts. Get new botls, clean the holes out with brake cleaner then use red loctite.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 12:04 PM   #3
ki4cye
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Thats not a grade 5 bolt. Its a grade 8.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 12:11 PM   #4
awesomejack
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For future reference, that's a grade 8 bolt, designated by the tick marks on the top of the cap.

The grades start at 2, so:
0 ticks, grade 2
3 ticks, grade 5
6 ticks, grade 8

They all differ in the amount of carbon in the iron, and the types of heating/cooling (hardening/tempering) cycles it was put through during manufacturing.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 12:50 PM   #5
nacheswheelin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80cj View Post
You mention lock washers. Don't use them. They lose tension or crack and then you end up with loose bolts. Get new botls, clean the holes out with brake cleaner then use red loctite.
I used lock washers on every bolt, front and rear so that was my problem. I was planning on just swapping one bolt at a time so I do not have to pull out the carrier and set up the gears again, will this work?


Quote:
Originally Posted by awesomejack View Post
For future reference, that's a grade 8 bolt, designated by the tick marks on the top of the cap.

The grades start at 2, so:
0 ticks, grade 2
3 ticks, grade 5
6 ticks, grade 8

They all differ in the amount of carbon in the iron, and the types of heating/cooling (hardening/tempering) cycles it was put through during manufacturing.
Thanks for the info, those gears are pretty tuff to rip up a grade 8.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 01:13 PM   #6
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80cj View Post
You mention lock washers. Don't use them. They lose tension or crack and then you end up with loose bolts. Get new botls, clean the holes out with brake cleaner then use red loctite.
X2

That the best answer someone could ever give! Do not use lock washer's.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 04:40 PM   #7
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460

X2

That the best answer someone could ever give! Do not use lock washer's.
This^^^
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Unread 02-17-2013, 05:37 PM   #8
80cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nacheswheelin View Post
I used lock washers on every bolt, front and rear so that was my problem. I was planning on just swapping one bolt at a time so I do not have to pull out the carrier and set up the gears again, will this work?




Thanks for the info, those gears are pretty tuff to rip up a grade 8.
That should work. You might want to run a pattern when you're done to make sure nothing went out of adjustment. I would also use the large headed OEM ring gear style bolts because they're the correct length and the larger bearing area under the head keep them from gouging into the diff case. Randy's Ring and Pinion sells them.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 05:43 PM   #9
chromegrille
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As chewed up as that bolt is, you better recheck the r-p and spiders very carefully.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 05:58 PM   #10
nacheswheelin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80cj

That should work. You might want to run a pattern when you're done to make sure nothing went out of adjustment. I would also use the large headed OEM ring gear style bolts because they're the correct length and the larger bearing area under the head keep them from gouging into the diff case. Randy's Ring and Pinion sells them.
Ok I'll look for the larger OEM bolts on Randys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chromegrille
As chewed up as that bolt is, you better recheck the r-p and spiders very carefully.
I did check them very well, more than once, no spiders to worry about just a Detroit in there. Now I am thinking of ways to flush out everything so there are no metal shavings after I replace the bolts, I am leaning toward the brake cleaner and compressed air rite now.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 06:19 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by chromegrille View Post
As chewed up as that bolt is, you better recheck the r-p and spiders very carefully.
Very true. Another thing you migh check is diff case runout. My brother had a similar incident with the D27 in his 68 CJ-5 and had a hell of a time pulling the diff out of the housing. Come to find out, the diff case was warped.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 10:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nacheswheelin View Post
Ok I'll look for the larger OEM bolts on Randys.



I did check them very well, more than once, no spiders to worry about just a Detroit in there. Now I am thinking of ways to flush out everything so there are no metal shavings after I replace the bolts, I am leaning toward the brake cleaner and compressed air rite now.
I would fill with ATF, spin it a bit, dump it and then refill until clean. Brake cleaner works good but it is nasty and you would need a ton of it.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 11:29 PM   #13
nacheswheelin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80cj View Post
Very true. Another thing you migh check is diff case runout. My brother had a similar incident with the D27 in his 68 CJ-5 and had a hell of a time pulling the diff out of the housing. Come to find out, the diff case was warped.
I'll check the diff case to be sure thanks I never thought of that.

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Originally Posted by RenoF250 View Post
I would fill with ATF, spin it a bit, dump it and then refill until clean. Brake cleaner works good but it is nasty and you would need a ton of it.
Ill give the ATF a shot.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 02:04 AM   #14
80cj
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I use mineral spirits in a sprayer. I hope no metal particles got into the bearings. I hate to suggest this but it might be worth it to pull things apart and clean everything out.
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Unread 02-20-2013, 10:28 AM   #15
nacheswheelin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80cj
I use mineral spirits in a sprayer. I hope no metal particles got into the bearings. I hate to suggest this but it might be worth it to pull things apart and clean everything out.
I hope there isn't any shavings in the bearings. When this happened we only drove about 25 miles total. So I really am hoping it happened close to home. I don't think that I will pull the carrier out. I'll just try to flush it good it might not be the smartest decision but time will tell. I looked up mineral spirits is it a paint thinner? I haven't used it before.
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