Rick's 'build' thread - 78 CJ5 - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Rick's 'build' thread - 78 CJ5

Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

Reply
Unread 08-27-2011, 03:02 PM   #61
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 5,056
Skerr - I wanted to eliminate that, but that is where the roll bar sits on top of. I made sure to taper it as best as I could, but with the piece of wood under it, the glass got really thin. I sanded a bit more after that pic was taken, and I took it down to the wood, so I should have a little overlap of glass and wood. I just needed that on there for a guide. I will probably put a layer on from the bottom if I can eliminate the cardboard up there, to help seal the wood if I didn't get it enough from the top.

__________________
Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
Cutlass327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-27-2011, 08:11 PM   #62
Skerr
<*////><
 
Skerr's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,786
Hey Rick... it looks AWESOME man! Great work. I saw the melted Dixie cup and Clay and I gasped at the concrete on your driveaway... thinking you could be the only one with a figerglass resin-coated driveway!! Then we realized it was cardboard!! Whew! Good thinking on your part.

When I metioned the air pockets in my previous post I wasn't thinking about the cardboard backing... so what you did is just right. After you get all three layers on there, and they are cured, then you can pull the cardboard off.

When I mix resin I use a plastic ice cream bucket, but anything like that made of plastic will work... EXCEPT A DIXIE CUP which I didn't know about until now!
__________________
Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
Skerr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-27-2011, 10:16 PM   #63
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 5,056
Yeah, and I had already found out POR15 has the same effect on them...

I was thinking you were meaning on the future layers with the air pockets. I smoothed it the best I could over that.

The only issue I'm having is the loose-woven 'glass. It separates, stretches, and the strands don't want to just lay down. I wish it was the woven fabric kind. I might have to see about that for the other layers. I don't know, I already cut the next 2 layers out, just had to wait and find something else to use besides the Redneck Party Cups

Maybe I'll do those layers before work tomorrow. I got my replacement manifold today, a friend of mine was heading to Columbus where the guy on CL was that was selling the carb, intake and exhaust together for $20. He picked it up for me on the way thru while I was cutting up my poor CJ.. I have to drill/tap out the rusted remains of the studs, and the exhaust pipe studs had been replaced with bolts, and they are looking like a job for the O/A torch. I have more Helicoils from the kit I used for the head, so I might just use them and new studs. The carb had a manual choke adapter on it, so it is missing the hi-idle screws and looks like it had caught fire (black soot looking layer up thru the top), so I'll just reuse mine and at least I have spare parts for it.
__________________
Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
Cutlass327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-27-2011, 10:41 PM   #64
Skerr
<*////><
 
Skerr's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,786
What you are using is called mat or chop or stranded glass... whatever your preference! You can commonly get it in 3/4 ounce and 1 1/2 ounce. The 3/4 ounce is lighter, thinner. But either one will "come apart" when brushing with a paint brush. It is best to use the brush to move resin from one spot to another (example, you pour it out of the bucket directly onto the mat, you lightly use the brush to spread it around before it soaks in). You don't really press the brush it into the glass or use any real pressure, or you pull the strands apart once they become saturated. Use the brush to dab the resin into the glass.

The next layer... paint the resin all over the base first. Then lay the second layer of glass down. It will stick! Now using a wet brush, dab the resin into the glass in small spots. Dab the resin into a spot until it is soaked up, make another spot next to it, then another spot next to it, and so on. If you think you have too much resin, and you want to move it to another spot, then try one of those pliable plastic knives like used in body filler and squeegee it... but gently! Any strands that stick up will sand off easily, so don't worry about that. Just becareful NOT to stick one of those hardened strands under your fingernail, because it hurts like a you-know-what! You can do a third layer while the second is wet if you choose... it saves time, but it's okay to wait until after it kicks off.

Also, and then I'll shut up, you CAN use the woven if you prefer. It will add strength, but it is best to apply it to the mat first. The mat will bond better to the original surface as the woven has little voids under every stitch. The woven bonds better to the mat. Then cover the woven with another layer of mat.

Sorry for the long post!
__________________
Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
Skerr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-28-2011, 09:31 AM   #65
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 5,056
Quote:
Also, and then I'll shut up, you CAN use the woven if you prefer. It will add strength, but it is best to apply it to the mat first. The mat will bond better to the original surface as the woven has little voids under every stitch. The woven bonds better to the mat. Then cover the woven with another layer of mat.
Keep it coming! This is how I learn!

So are you saying I should have started with the woven if I was to use it? That it won't stick as well to the mat? So am I better off without trying to use the woven now?

The way I did the first pieces was I laid them out on the cardboard and poured the resin over it, then spread it with the brush to work it in until it was soaked thru. Then I laid it into place, and just worked it around until it was as flat as possible in the position I wanted it. I did get a roller to do this project, but I didn't use it yesterday, since I was just trying to make a base layer that would hold the rest of the layers while I tried the roller. I knew I'd just fight it if I tried rolling it. I dabbed with the brush until I couldn't see any more air under the new where it laid on the old, since that was the important areas to have secure.

Thanks for the advice!
__________________
Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
Cutlass327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-29-2011, 01:35 AM   #66
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 5,056
So, I went out before work today and tried to do the last of the 'glass layers. Didn't work out too well. The resin turned to a thick Jello consistency before I was half done with the first layer getting rolled on. I had gotten it in place by brushing the resin on first, laid the mat down, and started dabbing the resin on. I was getting some air bubbles, so I grabbed the roller and started working them out. I noticed that it was getting harder to get them out, then realized the resin was setting. I grabbed the "Helluva Good' sour cream and onion dip cup that I was using for the mixing cup, and the brush came out with half the resin on it like a Popsicle.. So I hurriedly cleaned it all up, saved the cup (the resin came out in one large molded shape) and cleaned all the stuff with Acetone.

Now, I have a layer on there, 90%covered in hard resin, and it is not perfectly in place. Can I just break the weak areas loos and glass over them, laying them back down the way they should be? I have a couple bubbles the size of a dime. Can I cut into it, add resin, and glue it down? I'd hat to have to sane on it, it is so thin yet with only the one layer in place, I know I'll go thru it.
__________________
Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
Cutlass327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-29-2011, 05:00 PM   #67
Skerr
<*////><
 
Skerr's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
Keep it coming! This is how I learn!

So are you saying I should have started with the woven if I was to use it? That it won't stick as well to the mat? So am I better off without trying to use the woven now?

The way I did the first pieces was I laid them out on the cardboard and poured the resin over it, then spread it with the brush to work it in until it was soaked thru. Then I laid it into place, and just worked it around until it was as flat as possible in the position I wanted it. I did get a roller to do this project, but I didn't use it yesterday, since I was just trying to make a base layer that would hold the rest of the layers while I tried the roller. I knew I'd just fight it if I tried rolling it. I dabbed with the brush until I couldn't see any more air under the new where it laid on the old, since that was the important areas to have secure.

Thanks for the advice!
The woven is used to add strength... if you have something that needs to be strong, like joining a steering console to a boat hull. Your patch doesn't require woven as it is not structural. Your patch just keeps crud from flying into the cab. However, if you wanted to use woven, pretty much in any application, it is best to sandwich it between two layers of mat. Lots of people will give you different ideas... they're probably all correct! That's the beauty of glass work... you can't hardly mess it up! When I use woven (also called Roven!) I like to apply a layer of 1 1/2 ounce mat first, then the woven, then 3/4 ounce mat. The mat bonds better to the original piece and gives a better bed for the woven. I like to use the light mat to finish up with as it is a little easier to blend to the original surface.

After you precut and test fit your glass... have everything close to hand. Have your acetone (or lacquer thinner) waiting in some kind of container to throw your squeegee and/or roller so it doesn't get runied by setting up too long. I also recommend some latex gloves to keep the sticky resin off of your hands... seems like you never get rid of it! With everything ready to go, mix your resin. Yes, it IS a race, but mixing in the proper proportions will give you the time you need. 32 ounces of resin to 10 CCs of hardener. You should probably pour 12 ounces of resin into the bucket. Have your stirring stick ready! Squeeze the hardener into a syringe, measuring 3 CCs, then pour it into the resin. This will give you a good 20 minutes working time... more than enough for what you have to do. Mix it thoroughly, about 50 times. Hold the precut glass piece in position, dip the brush, and dab it along an edge. It's like all of a sudden the stuff is wet! Work around in any pattern you want, whatever your comfortable with. With the cardboard backing, you should affix it somehow to the body so it doesn't pop out when you go over it with the brush.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
So, I went out before work today and tried to do the last of the 'glass layers. Didn't work out too well. The resin turned to a thick Jello consistency before I was half done with the first layer getting rolled on. I had gotten it in place by brushing the resin on first, laid the mat down, and started dabbing the resin on. I was getting some air bubbles, so I grabbed the roller and started working them out. I noticed that it was getting harder to get them out, then realized the resin was setting. I grabbed the "Helluva Good' sour cream and onion dip cup that I was using for the mixing cup, and the brush came out with half the resin on it like a Popsicle.. So I hurriedly cleaned it all up, saved the cup (the resin came out in one large molded shape) and cleaned all the stuff with Acetone.

Now, I have a layer on there, 90%covered in hard resin, and it is not perfectly in place. Can I just break the weak areas loos and glass over them, laying them back down the way they should be? I have a couple bubbles the size of a dime. Can I cut into it, add resin, and glue it down? I'd hat to have to sane on it, it is so thin yet with only the one layer in place, I know I'll go thru it.
Yes, you can break the weak areas loose, or you can finish applying the resin to the untreated areas, if I am understanding you right. Either way. Don't freak out or get in a panic. This is a perfect project to get a feel for how glass works. If you screw up, and you can't stand it, you just sand the bad off and do it again. Don't worry if it is not in the exact position you were wanting. Add pieces here or there, giving a couple of inches overlap in each case... that's for strength (better bond). Your mold (cardboard) is important too. Make sure it isn't going to move when applying pressure with the brush. I used sheet metal screws to hold the cardboard to the fiberglass fenders when laying down the first layer of glass. After it cured, I pulled them out. The second and third layers cover that right up.

Again, mix your ratios as accurately as you can. Buy the stuff you need to do so. 32 ounces resin to 10 CCs hardener will give you close to 30 minutes work time, depending on the heat and sun. For sure 20 minutes.

Let's see some pics...
__________________
Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

"Contemplate the mangled bodies of your countrymen, and then say 'what should be the reward of such sacrifices?' ... If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!" —Samuel Adams

Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
Skerr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2011, 12:12 AM   #68
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 5,056
Well, I don't have any pics of the screwed up layer yet. I was going to work on that part today, but my GF came over and dropped some goodies off (she's starting a diet to lose the lbs gained from quitting smoking), so we also hit Walmart for some other stuff she needed and that I forgot my last trip there. While I was out I bought new studs and stover nuts for the manifolds to be reinstalled. I got back home in enough time to put the studs in the head and the manifolds in place. Tomorrow I plan to have it running so I can move it in and out of the car port on its own power. That 2" step onto the cememnt pad from the gravel is just too much to push it up, and my Ranger just digs into the gravel when I used it to push the Jeep.
__________________
Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
Cutlass327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2011, 12:21 AM   #69
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 5,056
Oh, and what is the easiest way to get rid of all of that itch power I sprayed all over the inside of my Jeep? A vacuum and pitch the bag afterwards or rinse it out? I'll have to vacuum the seats - the driver is lightly dusted from cutting, but the passenger seat is covered - the nice black is almost a gray!
__________________
Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
Cutlass327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2011, 11:17 AM   #70
Deadman 94 xj
Registered User
1977 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 193
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
I don't want to hear about SBCs, AMC V8s, etc. ONLY the Ford Non-HO 302, please. It would be EFI from a donor at the JY. Mated to either a Ford T18 or NP435. Then I am still deciding on the D20 or the D300 (I already have a D20 in the CJ, so if I don't want to buy a new xfer case, I'll use that one).
The build is looking great! I just wanted to comment on your drive train selection so sorry to take away from the glass work.

I'm currently in the process of swaping in the np435 mated to a D300. The D20 t-case would have been perfectly fine behind that tranny but my decision was based on the gearing being a tad lower in the D300. If that isn't a priority for you than the D20 is a great t-case that can still be twin sticked if you decide to. The only thing to consider is when it comes time for the adapter, you have to chose because it obviously won't work for both. If you're really set on sticking with the 20, you can also lower the gearing by putting D18 guts in it IIRC. Super dana 20 is what it goes by.

As far as the engine, no input sorry. I'm still running the 304 until it dies. When it does, the 302 is an option for me but so is AMC or even SBC since a GM engine can be mated to the np435 with some minor modification. I would use the np435 over the ford t18 because of the ford np435 granny gear. That said, if you're looking for a 'true' 4-speed, since the first gear on the 435 won't be of much use on the street, than the t18 might be a better option. Or even a different version of the 435.

The best option IMO for a street driven, mild trail jeep would be the t176 mated to the D300. then you could add a 4 low kit to the D300.
__________________
77 CJ5. 304, t-150, D20
Deadman 94 xj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2011, 01:08 PM   #71
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 5,056
Deadman, thanks for the input.

The regear is not much of an option, I can't see spending that much on the kits. That is why I figure a granny low trans is good - I wouldn't need the low 'lo-range' gears, or even low axle gearing, for my plans. I would stick with the 3spd, but I want that low range first gear. To me that is the most economical route.

I was thinking that the Ford T18 had the low first also. I'll probably end up with a NP435 anyways, but I like keeping my options open.
__________________
Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
Cutlass327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2011, 02:11 PM   #72
Deadman 94 xj
Registered User
1977 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 193
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
Deadman, thanks for the input.

The regear is not much of an option, I can't see spending that much on the kits. That is why I figure a granny low trans is good - I wouldn't need the low 'lo-range' gears, or even low axle gearing, for my plans. I would stick with the 3spd, but I want that low range first gear. To me that is the most economical route.

I was thinking that the Ford T18 had the low first also. I'll probably end up with a NP435 anyways, but I like keeping my options open.
It does but the NP435 is a little lower at 6.69 vs the 6.32. Not much of an issue I guess in the grand scheme of things.

I mulled over the t176/D300 combo because I wouldn't have to buy any adapters and having an extra gear is nice. The cost of the 4-low kit comes out pretty close cost wise if you can find a deal on the kit. That was my thinking anyway. Either way I'm happy with the route I took but like you said, there are definitely options.

Keep up the good work!
__________________
77 CJ5. 304, t-150, D20
Deadman 94 xj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2011, 08:22 PM   #73
STUBE
Registered User
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Canton, Ohio
Posts: 81
Well Done Sir.
__________________
08 2 Door JK All Stock Rolling on 265/75/16 ProComp AT's
STUBE is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2011, 11:29 PM   #74
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 5,056
Thanks Stube. You gonna get yours runnin' soon? Run into any questions, don't be afraid to ask.

So I need some advice myself. I am hoping to have this done Thursday at the latest - I need it for a workhorse at Mom's Friday. I am not going to be painting the CJ any time soon, so what should I do to cover/protect the new areas? I imagine I'll be using a bed liner of sorts inside, since I seem to be having a heck of a time not scratching the painted interior. Durable is a good thing. Should I just hit it with some simple black spray paint? I imagine it'll have to be sanded later anyways for the liner.
__________________
Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
Cutlass327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-30-2011, 11:41 PM   #75
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Massillon, Ohio
Posts: 5,056
Picture time!

Looks so different without the roll bar!



Some pics of the dried-too-soon work..





__________________
Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
Cutlass327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.