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Unread 07-07-2011, 10:50 AM   #31
Cutlass327
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Would they have to be welded into the frame to be effective, or would drilling a hole just the diameter of the O.D. of the sleeve be good? And I imagine you'd want it to be just a fuzz shorter than the width of the frame, so that you do get some squeeze on the frame and not just on the sleeve to eventually wear loose and wobble around in the holes in the frame.

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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 07-07-2011, 12:47 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass327 View Post
Would they have to be welded into the frame to be effective, or would drilling a hole just the diameter of the O.D. of the sleeve be good? And I imagine you'd want it to be just a fuzz shorter than the width of the frame, so that you do get some squeeze on the frame and not just on the sleeve to eventually wear loose and wobble around in the holes in the frame.
You have the concept exactly. IMO, since you paid as much as you did for the frame, you're going to want to protect it.


BTW- If you are not familiar with hole/sleeve sizes and how they relate to drill bit sizes (I know that I don't know!) then check with Jim. He can tell you what bit to use for what diameter sleeve and bolt so that you get "exact" fit. I don't think the hole would ever waller out with that kind of work.
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Unread 07-08-2011, 02:32 AM   #33
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Cool, thanks!
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Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 07-18-2011, 11:52 AM   #34
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Figured I'd post links to the threads I made with the questions I had during the frame purchase/prep/install...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ma...-tips-1211658/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ho...5-dry-1207591/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/la...horse-1204683/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/bo...tible-1198303/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fr...tions-1188441/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...ckles-1225984/

That's all I found so far.. will edit this post to add more as i find them..
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Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 07-27-2011, 02:50 AM   #35
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Well, I got my side bars done today, hope they work out ok. I just kinda followed how the nerf bars were made for attachment, hope that will suffice. I have attached pics, which I fear may be too big, which if so I'll just re-attach them later..

My question, how would be better to attach them to the frame? the front left would be right where the brake combo valve is, so I can't use a thru-bolt like planned. I was thinking just some self-tapping 3/8 bolts like the nerf bars were on with, but then was thinking of those nut-serts.. What would be stronger? The frame is 3/16" thick, same as the mounting plate on the bars..
img_20110727_033528.jpg   img_20110727_033539.jpg  
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 07-27-2011, 07:47 AM   #36
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Allot of nerfbar and sliders are using self tapping bolts to hold them on. It's not going to matter that much between the self tappers or nutserts. You're still just using the wall of the tube. If you are not going to get too rough with this after it's done either of those will work but if you plan on getting the full weight of the rig resting on the bars at times you might want to consider moving the brake pr. valve and going with through the frame a crush sleeves.
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My build thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ji...build-1093702/
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Unread 08-02-2011, 02:14 AM   #37
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Well, just an update.

I build some new rocker guards, since I couldn't reuse the tube nerf bars. They came out pretty good, considering I've never actually made a project out of "raw" metal before..



I don't have any during the process pics, me being me I didn't take any. I was also doing it after work, at the shop, so I wanted to get what I could done in the shortest time possible...

Here's a couple pics of the mounting:







I have taken them off this past weekend and fizz-canned them flat black for now. I'm considering having them powder coated. I was going to POR15 them and paint them with all the stuff left from the frame, but I don't have the time right now with preparing it for our trip this weekend..

I did replace the intake manifold gasket this weekend too - it has never idled so smooth! The #5 intake had a massive leak, it was hissing louder than the carb!
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 08-02-2011, 02:21 AM   #38
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Here's also a couple "in progress" pics of my bumpers. The guy building them for me has a print-out of Eddie's follow-along (it took me almost a cartridge and a half of ink!!) and he is really impressed with the outcome of it. He's 6'4" or somewhere close, and almost 300 lbs, and he was hanging on it. The TDK frame and rear crossmember never flexed, and neither did the bumper. We had only just tacked the bumper to the mounting supports, too!







He's going to only have the one angled piece on it to support the spare mount's vertical piece. I'm only going to go with my 31's, so we figure it should be plenty. Plus this will give me room to make a way to mount a Jerry can on there..
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Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 08-02-2011, 10:41 AM   #39
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I do have a question concerning the bumper mounting. I tried to use the 1/2" bolts with matching flats and lock washers. The problem is that the flat washers overlap. What is everyone else using to mount their bumpers?? I was thinking of those bolts and nuts with the 'built-in' washers are 'molded' into the nu and bolt head (flange bolts?)
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 08-02-2011, 10:49 AM   #40
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your not planning to drive this in the winter are you? seems like it would be a massiive waste if you are.
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Unread 08-02-2011, 12:01 PM   #41
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Yep - that's why all the stainless, galvanizing, 'glass body parts, etc.. I want to make it almost RUSTPROOF!
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 08-03-2011, 01:13 AM   #42
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Well, "Santa" came today in the form of the guy fabbing my bumpers.





There are a few things I'm going to do cosmetically, like add some weld in areas and square off some others. He did a hurried job, since I needed to have them ASAP. We had an agreement that I can do any final touches after I get back from my trip. I just spray-bombed it black for now, just to cover the bare metal. I'll clean it all off some other time and POR15 it. He hasn't gotten the front done yet, I told him that can wait til Fall or Winter even, I have the OE one on there for now. He's having some issues with the septic caving in along with some other jobs he's trying to get done. Since he's not charging me $$ to do these, I can't and won't complain!

I've put it on the CJ now, after the paint was just beyond tacky. I'll get a pic of that tomorrow, along with a couple other pics I have to take!

Now to chase this wheel bearing-like noise I'm getting.. It seems like it is ok til I hit a bump or something, then you hear the growling like a very bad wheel bearing. I just did new bearings in front (Timken) a week or so before my frame swap, and I know I did them correctly. I'm gonna tear it down tomorrow and see what I see.. It's mainly on the right front, it was there long enough to trace the noise today. It comes and goes as you stop or turn a corner.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 08-03-2011, 05:25 PM   #43
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Looks GOOD, Rick. True to form, Dude... you are ROCKIN"!
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Unread 08-03-2011, 08:53 PM   #44
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It's my first time reading this thread. I admire your diligence, Rick. In the end, you're going to have a real nice jeep.

Rich
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Unread 08-04-2011, 01:29 AM   #45
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Skerr - the 3rd pic in the post above with all of those pics of the steps, you can see the front-most mount for the 'glass tub. IIRC you were asking me about that, and I haven't had a chance to get those pics.

Today i had to chase down the noise I was having after I'd hit a bump... It ended up being the right front lock-out gave up, and the dog on the stub shaft was shifting over and rubbing on the piece on the outer half of the lock-out.





I wasn't sure if the spindle bearing was bad that caused this, or what happened, so I called O'Reilly's and they had them in stock! I am starting to love that store..

So I tore the right front down, cleaned it up, used a long barn spike to punch out the old spindle bearing.

Gonna have to get some new backing plates..



Cleaned it all up, used a 1 1/8 socket to seat the bearing. I am hoping it was to be put in until it stopped, because when I went to install the seal, I think it is in a little too far. Dunno, I'm planning to buy new backing plates and such, I'll check how it is going when it comes time to install them.

Here you can see the wear marks on the outer half's splined area, and the shavings packed around the end of the axle shaft..



I would love to do the trick Jeephammer does, with the zerk in the hub and the hole in the spindle to allow greasing on the go, but it doesn't look like my hub would work like he shows, so I haven't tried it yet. The notches inside the hub are inline with the bolt holes or something, not in a good position to drill thru into them for the zerk.. Since I couldn't do this, I just made sure I had plenty of grease in there..



Slid the spindle on, then realized I forgot something



Notice there was no seal in there!
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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