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Rubicon Express Suspensions from CCOR 706-207-4140Smittybilt Hard Tops @ Oconee Off-Road! 706-534-9955XHD Heavy-Duty Hood Latches for JK and TJ available at Oco

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Unread 01-01-2013, 02:13 AM   #31
mvigo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W7NB View Post
Does this EVER end
I honestly don't think it ever does! have fun along the way though...

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1985 CJ-7, fuel injected 258, 2.5" Rubicon Express Extreme Duty Lift, 1" Body lift, Crabtree Shackle Hangers, T-5, Dana 300 w/ 4:1 Teralow kit, Dana 30, AMC 20 w/1 piece axle, 3.73 's with Detroit Truetrac front and rear, riding on 32x11.5x15" Cooper Discoverer STT mud terrains
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Unread 01-01-2013, 03:03 AM   #32
Dadamsnv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W7NB
So guess what I found while I was digging out the transmission and transfer case? It appears the master cylinder had a small leak in the rear seal and had been leaking down the firewall. I now have a lovely rusted mess inside from the steering column down to the floor, so just that much more work to do.

After pulling out the seats and interior I have decided to go ahead and pull the dash and clean up all the wiring mess while I am at it.

Does this EVER end
Exact same thing happens to me
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Unread 01-01-2013, 05:05 PM   #33
W7NB
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So i got the transfer case off the T5 and have it and the CJ mounting plate outside with degreaser soaking in - but pressure washing in 35 degree weather sucks!

I've been looking at everybody's build threads who have put in AX15's in CJ's and have seen several mounting strategies - the most common being modifying the CJ style mount to fit the AX-15 and moving the mounting holes back. I have considered that or getting an aftermarket skid plate made up that would allow me to use the YJ style mounts instead - any suggestions?
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Unread 01-01-2013, 06:18 PM   #34
Dadamsnv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W7NB
So i got the transfer case off the T5 and have it and the CJ mounting plate outside with degreaser soaking in - but pressure washing in 35 degree weather sucks!

I've been looking at everybody's build threads who have put in AX15's in CJ's and have seen several mounting strategies - the most common being modifying the CJ style mount to fit the AX-15 and moving the mounting holes back. I have considered that or getting an aftermarket skid plate made up that would allow me to use the YJ style mounts instead - any suggestions?
If you are handy with a welder, make your own skid. That way you get a tummy tuck AND an ax15 mount.

I forget... The ax15 is the XJ manual or auto?
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Unread 01-01-2013, 08:24 PM   #35
W7NB
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If you are handy with a welder, make your own skid. That way you get a tummy tuck AND an ax15 mount.

I forget... The ax15 is the XJ manual or auto?
It's the 5 speed manual. I considering fabing up a skid with 1 1/2 square and plate but I was hoping to save some time on the ever expanding project
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Unread 01-06-2013, 09:52 PM   #36
W7NB
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I now can understand how a Jeep owner can turn a tire rotation into a ground up restoration...

Got everything stripped down to bare metal and painted the firewall today. The master cylinder leak turned out to be half the fluid from the rear chamber, and what a mess it made. I stripped the steering column out along with the pedals and heater box and got to cleaning.




Figured if I was in here may as well do the K5 fan conversion. Here is the painted outside firewall.


On to the interior work.


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Unread 01-12-2013, 11:43 PM   #37
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Progress today - finally starting to put things back together. Finished installing the Blazer fan conversion, modified the YJ pedals to work with the CJ master cylinder and installed the Brown Dog motor mounts. Plan to install the pedals, cylinders and steering column tomorrow and hope to be ready to sit the engine back in to make the motor mount adapters up might even get the clutch and tranny bolted on if I have time.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 11:31 PM   #38
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Well, progress continues at a slow pace. Engine is in, tranny mounted up and just finished putting the Novack adapter on the transfer case. Need to drill the cross member to mount the transmission mount in place then hope to get the fuel lines done tomorrow. Any tips or suggestions from folks who have done 4.0 swaps on routing the fuel lines? I have all the hardware from the donor vehicle so I plan to use as much of it as possible to limit the amount of rubber line I need.
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Unread 02-02-2013, 12:02 PM   #39
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Any tips or suggestions from folks who have done 4.0 swaps on routing the fuel lines? I have all the hardware from the donor vehicle so I plan to use as much of it as possible to limit the amount of rubber line I need.
When I did the ax on my cj I welded a peice of channel to the original skid plate and drilled holes in the plate so I could bolt the transmission mount down.

As for the fuel lines I used YJ nylon fuel lines for 3/4 of it, they bolt directly to the frame and look like they were there from the factory. The return line goes directly back into the stock CJ tank,(had to drill a hole in the fuel sending unit if I remember correctly) the only line that differs from the factory is the feed line. It also allowed for the use of the rollover valve that the factory has built into the lines. I ran it all the way back to the stock fuel filter location and then from there to the external fuel pum to the the tank I used EFI rated rubber hose, that was in 2004 and I have not had any problems with it at all.

Also another thought for you is for pedals I used the stock YJ pedals in my jeep they bolted directly in and gave me the correct mounting points for the hydraulic master cylinder for the clutch, the only regret I have is when I did it I put the CJ brake booster and master cylinder back on, the YJ brake booster bolts up no problem and gives you a better booster with more room around the engine, you do need a metric to standard adaptor to the brake lines but that is the worst problem you will face with that setup.
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Unread 03-24-2013, 11:00 AM   #40
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UPDATE:

Wow, I've been horrid about keeping this up to date. Short version is engine, transmission and transfer case are in, shifters have been modified, floor has been cleaned, patched and bed lined. I got started on some of the wiring and decided to re-use the original under hood fuse block from the Cherokee. I plan to use the abandoned relay positions that used to be for the headlights, ABS etc for my electric fans, auxiliary lights and similar toys, so I am going to dissect it and label all the in/out wires associated with those relays. I need to paint the inside of the fenders and get them mounted so I can mount the fuse box and computer. Pictures later today.
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Unread 03-24-2013, 10:34 PM   #41
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So, A fast forward with pictures:
Out front - wiring and all. Note the new clutch master and brake cylinders are in, as are the fuel lines and heater hoses. Just need to get a power steering hose and get the radiator in to finish out the plumbing:


Interior - we have no more rust, cracks or holes - bedliner is done and the carpet is going back in to keep the noise down when the hardtop and doors are on. Note the CJ shifter adapted to work on the AX15:


Here is the transfer case before it went in with the Novack adapter. Nice piece of machining, but their customer service is somewhat marginal - they had no idea what holes to use to clock the case up or what adapting I would have to do.


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Unread 03-25-2013, 02:32 AM   #42
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Looking great. Can you show some detail of what you did for the motor mount to the AX15? I've trying to get my head around what to do. Also, what sort of angles do you have with the output shaft on the transfer case and the rear diff? I've been considering some sort of cv joint for the output shaft on my cj.

Thanks for the updates, I'm following with great interest.
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1984 CJ7 - Under construction
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:59 PM   #43
W7NB
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The AX15 was a direct bolt up to the engine. The 4.0 and 4.2 both have the same bell housing, so the transmission works on either one. I used the stock crank sensor and stock location,so that all fits fine. 4.2 motor mounts on 4.0 makes a little more cant to the passenger side then with the 4.2. I didn't even realize that the stock CJ was not straight until I looked closer at a friends stock CJ.

I'm going with a Tom Woods CV drive shaft and lengthening the front shaft 3 inches. Even with the rear axle on wedges the angle is too much for a stock setup, and the new drive shaft will be close to 3 inches shorter. I'm going to measure for the new shaft this weekend and I'll let you know what I end up with.
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Unread 03-26-2013, 12:38 AM   #44
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I've got the transmission mounted with the external slave conversion (mine's from a 93 YJ). I've installed the d300 with the Novak adapter like you have but I'm having trouble sorting out the mount from the belly pan to the transmission. I've read a few forums on a cv and drive shaft from an Explorer.
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Unread 03-28-2013, 09:03 PM   #45
W7NB
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For now I just used the stock AX15 mount from a Cherokee and drilled the 4 holes in the stock CJ plate to mount it with - I'll try to get a couple of pictures tomorrow. I want to fab up a custom plate that tucks up against the transmission and clocked up t-case to give my self more clearance but don't have the time right now, so I just used what I had to get everything together.
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