What wind knot said, X2.
I suggest you buy a paper manual, and you download all the manuals for your year model you can.
They don't always agree, but if you have three or four, you can reach a 'Consensus' if you run into a misprint or dilemma...
You will find even a small air compressor (with a BIG tank) invaluable.
One of those cheap sand blasters is a nice thing to have, blow off the rust/crud before you have to work on things,
Remove rust so you can get rust killing coating to stick...
Air tools would be good, especially an impact wrench and air ratchet.
You will need, And I meant these are "MUST HAVE" items,
A case of penetrating oil. Something like PB Blaster for common things, and something like Areokriol for stubborn parts.
There is nothing like Aerokriol, but it's expensive.
A small propane torch/tank.
There are about 1,000 parts/fasteners on your vehicle that will loosen up without twisting off if you apply a little heat & penetrating oil to them...
An electric or air powered drill, and wire brush set.
There is nothing like being able to take the rust/crud off things, and this is the fast way.
Removing rust makes threads come apart so much faster/easier and might save you twisted off bolts.
A $6 'Yoga' or 'Sleeping Bag' mat. One of those closed cell foam jobs.
This makes getting under vehicles, saving knees, butts ect. a snap, and it will also give you someplace reasonably CLEAN to lay out parts while working.
For $6 it's cheap and it's amazingly handy.
Since EVERYONE that buys a CJ needs to pull down and inspect the front axle/spindles,
Spindle nut socket, around $10.
DO NOT use a chisel for the spindle nuts! Only idiots do that.
Around $20 gets you a spindle puller, another very handy tool for pulling down that front axle/spindles.
You will find a slide hammer a very handy tool, if nothing more than for the spindle puller...
Great for dents, pulling on stubborn parts, yanking on things that don't want to move, ect.
You will find pulling seals difficult without a slide hammer, but with a slide hammer it's a snap.
If you work on brake lines or fuel lines, a line wrench set. Do NOT try to take brake line fittings apart without a GOOD QUALITY line wrench set (Craftsman or better, no harbor freight).
If you work with things like timing, carb, ect...
You MUST have a timing light, good vacuum/pressure gauge, ect.
Don't forget deep well sockets. Six point, they bite better and don't round off fasteners as easily.
If you are smart, you will get an 'Impact' set of deep well sockets, you can hammer the crap out of those and not break them.
The usual assortment of snap ring pliers. You will find snap rings in a lot of places, and a variety of plier types will make life easier.
TEST LIGHT, one with a bulb, not LEDs.
An inexpensive multimeter.
A GOOD SET OF THE FOLLOWING, (NOT the combination tools, one size does nothing)
Crimping tool, Channel Lock makes the best for my money,
A good wire cutter/stripper. Dedicated to COPPER WIRE and nothing else. Side cuts suck...
If you work with larger 'Cable' size wire, you will need a heavy cutter that cuts CLEANLY, again, COPPER ONLY!
I suggest you get some tool separation.
If all your work is going to be done in a shop, then get one of those roll around carts with two or three shelves.
These are MUCH more handy than tool boxes, you can move them to the work and you are MUCH MORE LIKELY to put the tools back on the cart when you are done than pile tools up somewhere or leave them where you were working...
Don't be bashful, stick those socket rails to the sides of the cart, attach things where they are handy, leave pilers hanging on the edge of the tray where they are handy...
I paid tons of money for tool boxes, then spent half my life running back and forth for tools... MUCH better to roll the tools up to the job and be HANDY so you don't have to hunt for them...
SEPARATE YOUR ELECTRICAL/IGNITION/CARB TOOLS FROM THE 'COMMON' TOOLS!
You won't be as temped to mess up your electrical tools, and you won't be as likely to throw an impact on your timing light...
(Ask me how I know that...
Don't forget shop supplies!
A 'Shop' type towel roll, some regular paper towels, the usual assortment of 'Never-Seize' and 'Lock-Tite', plenty of lock washers and lock nuts, both prevailing torque and 'Nylock', cotter pins, roll pins, 'O' rings, ect.
You can get 'Assortment' packs pretty cheap, and it sure beats forgetting you needed to put one in but didn't later...
LOTS OF SMALL CONTAINERS AND SOME LABELS!
Save every coffee can, peanut butter jar, ect. and LABEL what's in it!
Clean things off as you take them off, keep parts together!
You will find with any kind of restoration, either the parts will self destruct on disassembly, or go into hiding shortly after removal.
Get yourself a 'White Board' and some masking tape, sharpie.
Stick masking tape to the vehicle and write on it what needs to be done, where you left off, and put small bites of the project on the white board and cross them off as you go so you can see progress.
Most people loose direction at one time or another, and seeing progress on the white board helps keep you motivated, and keeps you from forgetting to pick up what you need to finish each section of the project.
The tape on the vehicle keeps you remembering where you left off, keeps you spotting things that need attention but not while you are doing TODAYS project... This keeps a LOT of small details from getting overlooked...
And the tape can remind you EXACTLY where you left off, so you don't wade in there looking around trying to remember where you left off and what needs to be done... STAY FOCUSED... Small Bites... Do it RIGHT the first time... If you put the hours in, the end result WILL HAPPEN, but staying focused is a problem with longer term projects, especially when you keep finding other things that need attention...