replacing my clutch - any advice - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-24-2002, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
Jeep Daddy
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replacing my clutch - any advice

Here are the steps I figure I need to take to get the clutch out:

Remove Seats
Remove shifter covers
Remove Tranny shifter cover
Drain TC and Tranny
Unbolt Drive shafts
Support rear of engine
Remove skid plates
Disconnect Clutch linkage
Disconnect reverse switch
Remove bolts and support Crossmember
Remove TC from Tranny
Remove Tranny
Remove Bellhousing
Remove Pressure Plate/Clutch

Check pilot bushing and flywheel for turning and/or replacement
Replace Clutch and Throwout bearing

Reassemble in reverse order. Be sure to torque everything per specs and replace any seals or gaskets that are currently leaking if possible. I plan to replace all the TC seals and gaskets at this time too.

Can anyone add anything to this?


2004 Rubicon, 6" lift, 35s, winch, hard top, full doors, bumpers, tire carrier and rock sliders.
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post #2 of 11 Old 09-24-2002, 09:42 PM
80cj
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I did a clutch replacement on my 80 CJ-5 a few years ago and rented a transmission jack. It made life a lot easier and I was able to remove and replace the trans and transfer case as a unit. Of course my Jeep was at stock height. Yours is lifted so I don't know if a trans jack will reach up high enough. You might as well replace the pilot bushing while you're at it. It doesn't cost very much. I found that using bolts with the heads cut off as guide pins helped line up the trans and bell housing and made replacement a lot easier. Looks like you got your game plan well organized.
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-24-2002, 10:45 PM
jeepdaddy2000
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ALLWAYS turn the flywheel. Be sure to have a dummy shaft to align the disk. A trick way to remove the piliot bushing is to fill the cavity behind the bushing with heavy grease and drive it out using a socket that fills the hole.INSPECT the new cluch ***. for defects. Check the finger height after torquing the plate(all the fingers should be the same height) Inspect the input bearing retainer for wear(a notch can hang the throw out bearing). Be sure everything is clean. Do NOT force the trans. ***. during instalation. 80 CJ nailed it with the trans jack. Be sure to secure the trans. ***. to the jack to keep it from rolling. Be sure to cover the shifter hole with a rag. TAKE YOUR TIME! nothing sucks more than having to do the job twice. Hope this helps.
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-24-2002, 11:12 PM
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Just one more thing to add. When you get to the point where nothing wants to line up, be glad it isn't a T18 above your head.

You have it pretty well covered. Just be sure that your clutch kit has a plastic alignment tool. If it doesn't, order one and don't start until you have one.
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-25-2002, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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All my parts come in about a week and I DID order an alignment tool as well. Thanks for all the comments.

2004 Rubicon, 6" lift, 35s, winch, hard top, full doors, bumpers, tire carrier and rock sliders.
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-25-2002, 05:49 PM
derm
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i am going to replace my t-150 in a few weeks and found the list helpful, would it be ok to use a hydraulic jack instead of a transmission jack to lower the tcase/trans? can i just put a jackstand under the engine?(have a 258 in a 79 cj5)should i replace anything on the clutch as just preventive as the clutch is working ok, but i will be most of the way there anyway, sorry to butt in on your post, thanks derm
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-25-2002, 09:28 PM
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The big plus with the trans jack are the wheels which allow you to roll the ***. left, right, in and out. It also has a tray that holds the trans. steady. Put the hydraulic jack under the motor, that way you can change the angle of the rear of the engine if you need to. As to replacing the cluch, It's a judgement call. If it works well and you feel it will last, leave it. If you want to spend the money and have piece of mind. replace it. If you decide to leave it, be sure to check the throw out bearing.
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-25-2002, 10:42 PM
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For removal I always separate the trans/tcase and bring them down one at a time. You don't need a jack for either. On installation though I keep them together and a tranny jack is definitely a plus. If the Jeep has a rollcage I use a sling cable around the tranny and a come-along chained to the forward tube of the cage. Winch the tranny/tcase assembly up through the hole in the floor for the shifter housing. Works every time and is much easier than a tranny jack.
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-04-2002, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Well I got it all apart now. The old clutch was a 3 finger clutch. The old pilot bushing was bronze. I didn't have to remove the seats, but did have to remove my center console. I removed the tranny shifter top too. The xfer case came right out. I borrowed a pilot bushing puller from the Zone, and it was too large to fit my bushing. I used JeepDaddy2000's idea with grease and it worked like a charm. The power of hydraulics!

My new clutch is a diaphram type. The pilot bushing I bought is a needle bearing style. Anybody got any feedback on this type of pilot bushing setup? I guess I'll just grease it up good and install it. It seems to be the right size and all. The old pilot bushing fits the tranny shaft sloppy so I know it was worn

I did decide to send the flywheel out for resurfacing. It was worn about .40" deep into the flywheel.

That's it. Waiting for the flywheel.

2004 Rubicon, 6" lift, 35s, winch, hard top, full doors, bumpers, tire carrier and rock sliders.
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-04-2002, 10:54 AM
CJ7Danny
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Hey JeepDaddy2000, what's this trick with the grease and pilot bushing? I'm always up for learning new tricks!

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post #11 of 11 Old 10-04-2002, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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CJ7Danny - read post above by Jeepdaddy2000. He gave me the idea and it worked great. I don't know if it will work on a needle bearing pilot or not. But, it may be worth a try.

2004 Rubicon, 6" lift, 35s, winch, hard top, full doors, bumpers, tire carrier and rock sliders.
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