replacing ignition control module and coil - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 27 Old 01-04-2011, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
slymongoose
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1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: kailua-kona, hi
Posts: 24
replacing ignition control module and coil

last week i went out to start my jeep (1980 cj7 straight 6) and it would not start. it would just crank and crank and crank, but not turn over.
after some investigating, i realized the ignition control module was toast. the stuff on the back had melted, and oozed down the side of the wheelwell.
so i replaced that, but the jeep still would not start, so i replaced the coil too, and then she turned over.

so now it starts and runs, but it doesn't sound/feel like it's 100 percent. maybe it's still missing a little bit?
i just used the cheapest ignition module and coil from NAPA, which were like 25 bucks each.

coil:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...1SB_0150093403

icm:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...0SB_0305904662

could this make any difference? should i use a better coil?

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post #2 of 27 Old 01-04-2011, 04:31 PM
tumnusfleming
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My ignition module has melted away at the back and oozed down my wheel well as well but still works great...What are the symptoms for it not running 100%, what exactly is it doing/ sounds?
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post #3 of 27 Old 01-04-2011, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
slymongoose
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it sort of makes a sputtering sound at high RPMs ... almost sounds like an exhaust leak, but i don't see any holes in the pipe, and it would just be a strange coincidence if i had an exhaust leak happen at the same time as the ignition pooped out.
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post #4 of 27 Old 01-04-2011, 08:33 PM
Beach-Head
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This was an issue for my 86 CJ7 last week. I replaced the module with a stock module from napa and bought the gold coil as well as a new coil connector (the little black horseshoe shaped plastic connector that connects to the top of the coil) this afternoon. Jeep is running like a champ again. all in all it cost me $63. good luck

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86' CJ7

I've got no clue what I'm doing but I'm learning one busted knuckle at a time.
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post #5 of 27 Old 01-05-2011, 02:23 AM
raperfam
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1977 CJ7 
 
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maybe try some new spark plugs---that turned out to be my problem, had one bad one changed them all and bam running like a champion.
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post #6 of 27 Old 01-05-2011, 07:25 AM
JCJ
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From what I have read here, any and all of the replacement ign boxes are junk and a crapshoot at best. Many stories of non functioning units out of the box or almost immediate failures.

"The arrogance of officialdom should be tempered and controlled, and assistance to foreign hands should be curtailed, lest Rome fall."
- Cicero -
55 BC
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post #7 of 27 Old 01-05-2011, 10:10 AM
littlebuddie
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I replaced my ICM and coil about 2 years ago. Niehoff was recommended on this board as the most reliable ICM for as JCJ says, they are mostly junk but the Niehoff with a fair price of about 30.00 has worked perfectly - so far. Let us know how your NAPA ICM works out for you slymongoose, it's always good to share part quality info.

1980 CJ-7 258 Dana 300, SR-4 Trans, Basically Stock Except One Piece Rear Axles, Weber Carburetor.
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post #8 of 27 Old 01-05-2011, 10:18 AM
tumnusfleming
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Just recently installed new Borg Warner ignition module and coil the other day that I bought from Oreilly's. Everything is working great and the Jeep runs like a champ now. Got a lifetime warranty on those parts as well. Best Regards.
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post #9 of 27 Old 01-05-2011, 10:43 AM
littlebuddie
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Are you running stock exhaust? There is that pesky heat riser valve that can commonly get stuck either open or closed or the thermostatic spring breaks, comes unhooked or simply falls off. If the flapper gets stuck in the closed position it can cause detonation, overheating and rough idle after the engine is warm. If it is always open, there will be frequent stalling during warm up. I suppose damage to an ICM and coil can result from this. Anyway, it's easy enough to check and remedy if malfunctioning.

1980 CJ-7 258 Dana 300, SR-4 Trans, Basically Stock Except One Piece Rear Axles, Weber Carburetor.
*[\`\]*
O\lllll/O

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post #10 of 27 Old 01-05-2011, 11:04 AM
scrapman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlebuddie View Post
Are you running stock exhaust? There is that pesky heat riser valve that can commonly get stuck either open or closed or the thermostatic spring breaks, comes unhooked or simply falls off. If the flapper gets stuck in the closed position it can cause detonation, overheating and rough idle after the engine is warm. If it is always open, there will be frequent stalling during warm up. I suppose damage to an ICM and coil can result from this. Anyway, it's easy enough to check and remedy if malfunctioning.
Do you have a pic or an expanation of where the heat riser valve is that you are refering to?
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post #11 of 27 Old 01-05-2011, 01:04 PM
littlebuddie
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1980 CJ-7 258 Dana 300, SR-4 Trans, Basically Stock Except One Piece Rear Axles, Weber Carburetor.
*[\`\]*
O\lllll/O

[]=O=[]
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post #12 of 27 Old 01-05-2011, 03:09 PM
John Strenk
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A stuck heat riser will probably NOT hurt the ICM or coil but your engine will run poorly as littlebuddie describes.


With cheap ignition parts you get what you pay for. Maybe it producing to week of spark in your system. That could cause your rngine not to run 100%.

Did your jeep run great before you had to replace the coil and ICM?
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post #13 of 27 Old 01-05-2011, 07:12 PM
littlebuddie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
A stuck heat riser will probably NOT hurt the ICM or coil
Thanks John, I made the assumption because all 3 components went bad on my Jeep at the same time.

1980 CJ-7 258 Dana 300, SR-4 Trans, Basically Stock Except One Piece Rear Axles, Weber Carburetor.
*[\`\]*
O\lllll/O

[]=O=[]
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post #14 of 27 Old 01-05-2011, 11:56 PM
gosupes
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Why not swap in a GM HEI module in place of the stock ECM? JYG has posted schematics on this site. Very reliable and fairly cheap. I wouldn't go with low buck ignition parts, did that once and ended up on the side of the road in the pouring rain swapping parts. Sucked.

1986 CJ7, 4.2 w/4.0 head, TFI-HEI hybrid ignition, Clifford manifold w/Holley 390 w/cold air intake, OBA, 4.5" lift, Woody CV shaft and Tattons in front, 4.10 gears - lunchbox in front, Truetrac in the back, twin-sticked, blower upgrade for running topless, trying to keep it simple.

It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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post #15 of 27 Old 03-04-2013, 01:01 PM
bigbird24
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I am new to this forum and a novice with my jeep. I have an 86 cj7 with a 258. I replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor but stopped at the coil. I wasn't sure which to get. The jeep was completely rewired with a painless wiring kit and as you can see in the photo a ballast resistor was installed on the firewall. I guess my question is which coil should I get and what is the small cylinder attached to the coil bracket with the wire going to the coil? Thanks
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