Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Replacing the bed

2K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  Ken4444 
#1 ·
My bed is in bad shape, and I'm cutting a bunch of it out. Tell me, are the horizontal channels part of the bed (ie if I were to buy a replacement bed)? You can see the "ribs" aren't even really attached to the sides, and given their condition, I don't really know how they are suppose to go together. I'm really in over my head. I'm trying to figure out if I should just cut EVERYTHING out? I'm trying to be careful and save stuff, but what is the point?
 

Attachments

See less See more
3
#4 ·
Your floor is much worse than mine. When I Replaced the bed part in my cj5 I cut it it but left about a half inch all the way around the floor and then set a new piece of flat steel in for the floor and welded it up. I did cleanup the little area I left as to not promote rust. M I did all of this with the tub off. For my floor supports I used flat strap probably 1" wide by 1/8" thick and laid them on edge in a checker board fashion. This added plenty of strength to the floor. I was able to repair my floor for less than 50 bucks. Much less than a replacement panel. I left my floor flat but you could get a sheet metal shop bead roll it to match the original. I seamed sealed everything and the tub was rhino lined so I have no worries about moisture getting in my lap joint.
 
#5 ·
On the back section I don't have anything to leave attached, as you can see. I think what I'm most lacking right now (besides experience) is an understanding of how the bed ties into the sides. I would love to see a few different views of one of the replacement beds for some perspective. Regardless of that, it seems like I should be able to save the supports and weld them to a new deck (I pulled up a single solid piece of diamond plate the PO had laid over the bed). Hopefully somebody has the measurements for all that....
 

Attachments

#6 ·
I'm finally getting motivated after spending the last week (re-)reading the build threads of Ken4444444, COIZ, VACJ7, and a host of others, many of whom claimed to have no welding and/or body work experience.....surely I can cut metal, lay down a million spot welds, and grind them back down, right? RIGHT?? Well we're going to find out. Had some free Amazon gift cards from work, so I ordered a Lincoln Handy Mig, should be here next week, not that I'm actually to a point where welding is a need yet. {shopped gas, too. AirGas in McKinney wanted $315 for the bottle & $94 to fill it, vs. Metroplex Welding Supply who wants $200 for the bottle & $38 to fill it. That's a big difference.}

In the meanwhile, I'm seeing that most everybody has the same problem areas, and I'm in the same boat. But I haven't found anybody who has/had the bed disaster that I have, which means I can't learn too much from the other builds. dde16. I'm in uncharted waters. Obviously the bed needs to be replaced, and I'll be using the Classic Enterprises replacement bed for that. But I think I need to fix the inner wheel wells first.....but first I'll need to fix (at least) the inner edge of the "wheelhouse support baffle." But I think my next actual question is how is this back corner (near the spare tire support bracket) supposed to fit together? Looks like most of the bed edges consist of a downward lip welded through the punches in the bottom edge of the wheelhouse. But the back corner must all just butt together? Or maybe the wheelhouse folds under for the last 3-4"? This thing is in such bad shape, it's hard for a newb to know how to rebuild it. No matter what, whatever I do will be stronger than the caulk/nothing it had been held together with.

Please bear with me as I figure all this out. :)
 

Attachments

#11 ·
I'm finally getting motivated after spending the last week (re-)reading the build threads of Ken4444444, COIZ, VACJ7, and a host of others, many of whom claimed to have no welding and/or body work experience.....surely I can cut metal, lay down a million spot welds, and grind them back down, right?
Yes, the general idea is correct. As with any other skill or hobby, the difference between a hack job and a professional job lies in dozens of details and variables. An amateur can put together some decent results but you have to have mechanical aptitude. You have to be able to improvise if you lack certain metalworking tools. You have to have some experience welding so you have a feel for the process and the materials. Welding 16 gauge sheet steel greatly different than laying a bead to join two 1/4" pieces of steel.

My advice to people welding new metal to their CJ tub is this:

1) Make very straight cuts when you remove the old metal. This speeds the process when you are fitting the new metal in.
2) Be certain you know what's underneath the metal you're cutting out.
3) The new metal must fit very, very closely to the old metal, within 1/32" or so. With 16 gauge sheet metal you can't just fill in a gap with the steel from the welding wire, even with a copper backer. The metal has to fit right.
4) The more time you spend making the new metal fit correctly, the better the finished product will be.
5) You will spend more time cutting and shaping metal than you will welding.
 
#7 ·
Every place two or more sheets come together there is a flange bent into at least one piece, spot welded to other pieces. There aren't any locations where panels just butt against each other. Yours is so far gone that the flanges are no longer present.
 
#8 ·
Every place two or more sheets come together there is a flange bent into at least one piece, spot welded to other pieces. There aren't any locations where panels just butt against each other.
ok, that makes it pretty straightforward to figure out how to reconstruct the puzzle pieces. Probably. I see a metal brake & a lot of plug welding in my future. HOW HARD CAN THIS BE? :drool:
 
#10 ·
ECJ-7 said:
just a suggestion, but it's a crap-load easier to do those repairs with the body off the frame,
I have no doubt this is true.

ECJ-7 said:
and that is a real easy thing to do.
I have significant doubts about this. :)

For one, I don't have the space. Don't get me wrong--every one of those build threads that didn't lift the tub off said they wish they had lifted the tub off. I know I'm not smarter than those who have gone before me, and I would love the chance to CLEAN the underside & frame & all that implies. But I work far too slowly to take up that much of the garage. Second, that means unbolting more stuff, and seems like everything I unbolt ends up breaking, regardless of heat & penetrating oil applied. :(

I mean, even as I'm typing this, I'm working through what is involved...I'm sure I'll regret not doing it, but I just don't see it as an option for me.
 
#13 ·
Im also in the process of taking the bed out of my YJ tub that will be going on my CJ. I got a replacement panel from quadratec and not too impressed with the quality. It was pretty bent up from the shipping and the ribs were not pressed in anywhere near as deep as the originals. I also ordered the underside supports which seem fine.

I drilled out all the spot welds on the two sides and front so far and just have the rear to do to finish getting the old parts out, then it will be on to fitting the new panel.

I will probably use the Qtec piece and maybe add some additional supports underneath but just to those who might think its a stock like replacement, its not. I had also ordered the same part from classic2current thinking they might have better quality parts but it was about identical to the one i got from Qtec except the ribs were even shallower than the Qtec piece.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top