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Unread 03-18-2013, 04:31 AM   #91
OleBlue73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hasenpfeffer
Someone had PM'd me about how my TRL7 install went and figured I'd share an update. Here's a photo. It's really hard to take a picture up in that area behind the driver's rear wheel.

I found a rubber lined cable/pipe strap at Home Depot that was a good fit and just put 1 bolt through the same hole as the original roll over valve. The rubber lining works perfect to protect the TRL7 and it's just thick enough to provide friction against the fender while keeping the TRL7 away from the fender. I also used spring style hose clamps due to the limited barb length on the TRL7. Even with only 1 bolt holding the strap, the valve has not rotated or budged at all and I have been seriously off roading with it. Although there are 2 hoses coming out of the gas tank, my Jeep's previous owner had already plugged one up, so I just left it that way and used only 1 to the TRL7, with the top end of the TRL7 going to the charcoal canister. The hoses, spring clamps, and pipe strap were all a pretty tight fit, but it all seems to have worked well and I have not noticed any problems. I did pass emissions, but I have no idea how thorough they are.
Older thread, but for confirmation here on the TRL7 vent valve, which end points up and which end is plumbed to the tank? It's hard to tell from your picture, but I believe I had mine installed like yours (looks like screw joint in valve is up), but mine wouldn't let the pressure out of the tank. If I tried to blow through it like that (pointed up) I couldn't blow through it. I swapped it over and can blow through it. When I blow, the balls are pushed up.

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Unread 03-30-2013, 03:06 PM   #92
renegadefan1
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question about part i found that may work

i found a part for an old chrysler vehicle..called fuel vapor seperator. it appears to function the same way. kind of expensive to try...anyone else tried this yet?
v3.jpg  
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Unread 03-30-2013, 04:16 PM   #93
walkerhoundvm
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Holy cow!!!Any pics of the internals and have you got a part number?
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Unread 03-30-2013, 04:18 PM   #94
walkerhoundvm
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Wow, just a couple hundred bucks on eBay...
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Unread 03-30-2013, 07:16 PM   #95
renegadefan1
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this guy is selling them for $65

http://www.amhightechauto.com/

Hi walker...i am on the cj8.com website also..different username..jeepinjosh over there.
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Unread 03-30-2013, 10:05 PM   #96
renegadefan1
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also found this one for a honda accord...looks pretty accurate. i will probably give this one a try.
911-754-007.jpg  
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Unread 03-30-2013, 10:12 PM   #97
walkerhoundvm
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Let us know, Josh, it'd be great to know if there's a more suitable alternative than that $100 piece of aluminum.
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Unread 10-17-2013, 06:19 PM   #98
Monk
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Liquid Check Valve

It's been a few months since this thread ended, but has anyone used any of these two items for a Liquid Check valve? They look like a vapor canister.

Still searching for a Liquid Check valve. I have the Delorean rollover valve.
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Unread 12-21-2013, 05:56 PM   #99
SouthernGypsy
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I know it's an older thread but someone posted about the Nissan Altima liquid check valve working but never posted a part number for it and for the life of me I can't find a part number for one of them in web searches.

Does anyone know the actual part number of the LCV from the Altima?
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Unread 12-21-2013, 06:32 PM   #100
walkerhoundvm
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Here are some links to the one posted a little upthread, not the altima version, but a mopar part.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Vapor-...-/310519090753

http://www.521restorations.com/index...body&sub1=Fuel

http://www.billrolikenterprises.com/...p?prod=2951192

http://www.jimsautoparts.com/engine_...r%20separators

http://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog...r-90096-1.html
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Unread 12-21-2013, 08:51 PM   #101
SouthernGypsy
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Thinking about all the liquid/vapor valves that I have had experience with in the past and have an idea which I just vetted through an friend who's an engineer in this very kind of stuff, and as long as you don't care about being factory accurate I have a viable inexpensive option for people who do not want to spend a bundle on or can not find an original LCV...

First off, LCV's are not magical devices. They don't even stop liquid from going through them at all, if they did we would not need a separate Roll-Over valve. If they fill up with gas under pressure it will go out the top. Basically what they do is they have two inlets going to different sides of the tank, the assumption being that at least one side will usually not be submerged. If gas is pushed up into it from the side that is submerged, it is an open chamber on that side allowing it to flow right back down into the line going to the side of the tank that is not submerged. Above this open chamber side of it is a media identical to what is in fuel filters, at least on the newer model my friend has taken apart though he admitted some old models may only have a series of baffles. What this media or baffles to is to "slow down" the fuel going through it. If it's under pressure such as from a fuel pump it wont slow it down much, if it's not under pressure such as just fuel from a tilted tank pushing up into it then it slows it down more. Even with a light vacuum such as from the canister it's not enough to pull it through much faster. Most of the trick to what they do is simply to add TIME, a delay, for the gas to fill the entire chambers both below and above the media until the entire thing is completely full of fuel and only then will it start to come out of the top. This delay time gives the vehicle time for the gas to drain back out of it. Remember even with a light vacuum from the canister vacuum will ALWAYS pull air/fumes/vapor FASTER than it will pull a liquid such as gas. So your Jeep is sideways on a hill with a fairly full tank; what happens is one sides vents are submerged trying to push fuel up into the LCV canister, while the other side is not submerged, the canister is trying to apply a light vacuum but it's going to pull the vapor through from the side that is not submerged, bubbling up through the gas inside of the LCV's canister and combined with the delay it takes to fill the entire canister this gives time for the Jeep to come back down on level or the fuel to drain back down the hoses, even through the lower part of the same hose that it's drawing vapor up through.

Now, think about this... What do we (especially Jeep owners) know that has a single hole on one side, two on the other side, and otherwise is basically canister with a filter media inside? Uh, yea... duh... Our fuel filters!

Our filters are not directional, there is no check valve inside of them, both fuel and vapor can pass through them in either direction. So two of the nipple sizes are wrong (though you can often spray some lubricant on a hose and work it up on the next larger size nipple) but other vehicles do use similar filters with one in and two outs and some small Japanese vehicles even have all of them in the same 1/4th inch size that we need for an LCV. Many also come complete with brackets around them to mount to a frame rail. All we need to do is to turn them up ended with the two outlets down and the single outlet up and connect them just like we would our stock LCV. Make the line as straight from the inlets to the tank vents as possible so fuel can run straight back down into the tank if it gets up into it (ie. no loops, this just traps fuel). Then come out of the top making an S and coming into the bottom of our Roll-Over valves, my engineer friend suggested mounting our roll-over check valves higher than the LCV and doesn't understand from an engineering standpoint based on how they work together why Jeep ever had the LCV mounted level with or lower than the roll-over valve. The final step is to come out of the top of the roll-over valve and go UP HIGH, loop the line upwards and back over the top of the roll-over valve and the filter and back down to connect to the hard line going forward to the canister. You now have a chamber to collect fuel pushed up during turns and allow it to drain back down quickly, a media any fuel must push through before it can go up any higher, and even if it does it still has to get all the way up to the roll-over valve, through that, and back up through the loop that goes up before coming back down again. For the price of an inexpensive fuel filter that you simply turn vertically on end instead of keeping horizontal you have simulated the basic functions of how an LCV works. My friend did point out that if doing this to choose a fuel filter with as much or more internal volume as the original LCV had, which should be fairly easy, just don't choose one of those little tiny filters.


As I said, I checked this idea with an engineer friend of mine who says it should work great for those not willing to pay for or who can not find a specifically designed LCV, and is certainly a whole lot better than nothing at all! However, like most home remedy's with these Jeeps, choose to use the information at your own risk.
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Unread 12-21-2013, 09:16 PM   #102
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Update to my last post:

My friend called me back after grabbing a few spare filters that he had for his '69 Mustang and 2010 Mustang and his 2001 Chevy pickup and said he couldn't resist doing some experimentation test and says the fuel filter turned up on end works great, even in the presence of a mild vacuum from a vacuum pump he had that he said is probably producing more vacuum than the canister ever would.


He said this only problem now is he just filled his spare fuel filters with water while testing this setup using a small vacuum pump and a coffee can of water. I about fell over laughing... You'd have to know him to know that once he had a puzzle like this he would have never been able to just "leave it alone" without running some kind of actual testing. I told him not to think of it as wasting three spare fuel filters but think of how a bunch of Jeep owners he's never meet maybe thankful for his sacrifice. He already had plans though of running his vacuum pump on them awhile to dry them out again so they can still be used for gas later.
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Unread 12-22-2013, 06:59 AM   #103
John Strenk
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Interesting and I think that the basic idea af a vacuum pulls vapors easier than fluid is the right idea but the LCV in our jeeps have no filters

just a float, needle valves and diaphragm valves. This does make it directional to a large degree.

I'm thinking these are more designed to keep liquid fuel from getting into the vent lines just long enough until the jeep gets level and the gas can drain back into the tank.

There is not constant vacuum on the vent lines. The charcoal canister does capture fumes when the engine is not running also. From the carb and fuel tank.

Not sure what modern fuel injected systems run.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
My vintage liquid check valve showed up today. It was sold by Jeeps Unlimited in Erie, Colorado via their Ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/Jeeps-Unlimited-Colorado

It appears to be in very good condition. I was able to gently pop it open and inspect the inside. The rubber parts (needle tip, O-ring, diaphram valve) seem to have some life left in them.

The original small rusty screws were still installed. I will have to cut them out. Here are some photos just FYI.

Here's the main view. Note that the cap is not fully seated in this photo as I had already pried it off:



Bottom view:



Inside:



O-Ring:



Top cap:



Inside of the cap. The red part is a rubber diaphram valve similar to what I've seen on a Motocraft 2100:



Float, top part:



Float, bottom. The brass pin fits in a hole and keeps the float centered:



Numbers on the side: PT-3198650 and PM-1899:



Numbers on the top of the cap: PT-3198656 (slightly different than the number on the side) and PM-1899:

liqued-checkvalve.jpg  
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Unread 12-22-2013, 07:46 AM   #104
Matt1981CJ7
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I'm not sure a standard fuel filter would function the same as the LCV.

Matt
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Unread 12-22-2013, 08:52 AM   #105
billybooster2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7
I'm not sure a standard fuel filter would function the same as the LCV. Matt
Its only similarity is the number of holes and an expanded chamber. Theres no valve to stop liquid at the equivalent of a raised float. The concept of the fabric filter slowing down flow seems accurate only when dry, and irrelevant at best.

I do like the idea. And if theres a replaceable filter version it could be modded to include a float and seating needle/peg and seal. Now that is what we should make! Know of an unscrewable similarly volumed three hole fuel filter?
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