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Unread 09-30-2010, 05:18 PM   #61
sherlocktk
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I have been following this thread for well over a year now. Living in the Smog Nazi Capital of the world (California) they do what is called a vapor test where they pressurize the fuel system to about .5 psi, cap off the vapor vent line at the canister and ensure it does not have a measurable leak in 2 minutes.

My LCV was shot, and The parts on the inside are un-repairable in my mind. (Both the o-ring and the little rubber flapper thing) To pass the test I just bypassed the liquid check valve and only ran the rollover valve. This was totally an OK solution for driving around town etc. Once I take it off-road and get tippy, the "vent" lines are submerged and there is enough vacuum from the evap canister to pull liquid fuel to the evap canister (and drip all over the road). I am sure this is why jeep decided to put it there in the first place. I do have a large loop I have installed going as high as possible in the wheel well. I have been looking for a LCV to fix this, and this might fit the bill, I just dont like the price. Do you know if this valve is "air tight"?

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Unread 09-30-2010, 07:50 PM   #62
Dborns
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I just opened a thread with questions on a poly tank I just bought. It sounds like the same tank that sanddrag is talking about in post #52. The tank has the two n*****s on the top, but no hoses were connected, and my Jeep doesn't have any rollover valves, check valves, or canister hoses. So it sounds like I need a charcoal canister when I put the new tank in? Run hoses off the two smaller connections, into a "T" and run that to a canister? What does the canister look like, and are there aftermarkets that can be bought?
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Unread 10-21-2010, 08:43 PM   #63
mjfitz99
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20 gallon skid plate replacement...now a couple of questions

replied in the wrong place...meant to start a new thread

Last edited by mjfitz99; 10-21-2010 at 08:46 PM.. Reason: screwed up
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Unread 11-01-2010, 03:04 PM   #64
WillyC24
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This thread has been a blessing to a frustrating search for a rollover valve and liquid check valve. (see this other thread)

In reference to the mentioned FuelSafe TRL10 combo rollover/liquid check valve, what would I do with the remaining nipple on the fuel tank which originally two went to the liquid check valve (see diagram image in this thread). Could I just block one of the nipples, or would this cause problems?
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Unread 11-01-2010, 03:19 PM   #65
WillyC24
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** correction to avoid confusion, I meant TRL7 valve.

FWIW -- I also found them for half price (~$45) on Merlin Motorsports. Their exchange rate is extremely favorable, and shipping to the US was only $15.
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Unread 11-01-2010, 03:42 PM   #66
sherlocktk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyC24 View Post
** correction to avoid confusion, I meant TRL7 valve.

FWIW -- I also found them for half price (~$45) on Merlin Motorsports. Their exchange rate is extremely favorable, and shipping to the US was only $15.
Thanks for the less $$$ find. I just Ordered it. This will replace my aging rollover valve, and hopefully fix the vapor vent issue I am having. I have no idea what the exchange rate might be but seemed a very reasonable price now.
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Unread 12-06-2010, 04:38 PM   #67
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>


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dborns View Post
I just opened a thread with questions on a poly tank I just bought. It sounds like the same tank that sanddrag is talking about in post #52. The tank has the two n*****s on the top, but no hoses were connected, and my Jeep doesn't have any rollover valves, check valves, or canister hoses. So it sounds like I need a charcoal canister when I put the new tank in? Run hoses off the two smaller connections, into a "T" and run that to a canister? What does the canister look like, and are there aftermarkets that can be bought?
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Unread 04-26-2011, 05:11 PM   #68
billybooster2
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Thread revival?

So I've read with great interest all the pointing towards the D'lorean piece and the 'expensive' liquid check valve. Would this piece work? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Fuel-Tank-Roll-Over-Vent-Valve,5848.html

It's $15... and so one of these from one top of tank hose goes to screwthread end... the other hose T's in to the 'out' port direct to the cannister...

Doesn't it do both pieces jobs? Or at worst replace the liquid check valve?

Or this piece :http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tip-Va...t-AN8,451.html if you T thetwo 'outputs from top of tank into a female threaded 'piece, scrfew this in.... join the dots?

Thoughts folks? I want to imagine I've gone one better than the delorean solution!
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Unread 04-26-2011, 05:46 PM   #69
sherlocktk
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I dont think either of thoes will work for a liquid check valve. The roll over valve is just that, it stops fuel from being able to flow once it is mostly upsidedown, to prevent from fuel literally leaking all over the place. This is a simple ball that closes the valves via gravity and serves the same purpose as the deloran check valve.


The liquid check valve is a different animal this is specifically used on jeeps because the vehicle is used in "tippy" situations meaning 20 degrees in any direction. When My LCV (Liquid Check Valve) broke (Meaning did not pass EVAP test in CA for smog) I bypassed it entirely. Works totally fine for street driving, but once I got off road, the evap canister pulled vacuum on the tank, and started to drip gas not a good thing. The Liquid check valve "fixes" this by not letting the liquid pass through.

I have yet to install my "expensive" valve but will do so in the next weeks as I get ready for the new smog check.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 06:08 PM   #70
hasenpfeffer
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Correct, those are rollover valves only, and will not replace the function of the liquid check valve.
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Unread 04-26-2011, 08:58 PM   #71
FLynes
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Just to clarify for us '76 and older CJ owners, in reference to axlesnap's question back in '09, we do NOT have a rollover valve, only a liquid check valve, per the 1976 AMC Service Manual.

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Unread 03-10-2012, 08:59 PM   #72
hasenpfeffer
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Someone had PM'd me about how my TRL7 install went and figured I'd share an update. Here's a photo. It's really hard to take a picture up in that area behind the driver's rear wheel.

I found a rubber lined cable/pipe strap at Home Depot that was a good fit and just put 1 bolt through the same hole as the original roll over valve. The rubber lining works perfect to protect the TRL7 and it's just thick enough to provide friction against the fender while keeping the TRL7 away from the fender. I also used spring style hose clamps due to the limited barb length on the TRL7. Even with only 1 bolt holding the strap, the valve has not rotated or budged at all and I have been seriously off roading with it. Although there are 2 hoses coming out of the gas tank, my Jeep's previous owner had already plugged one up, so I just left it that way and used only 1 to the TRL7, with the top end of the TRL7 going to the charcoal canister. The hoses, spring clamps, and pipe strap were all a pretty tight fit, but it all seems to have worked well and I have not noticed any problems. I did pass emissions, but I have no idea how thorough they are.

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Unread 03-11-2012, 08:49 AM   #73
Orlie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hasenpfeffer View Post
Someone had PM'd me about how my TRL7 install went and figured I'd share an update. Here's a photo. It's really hard to take a picture up in that area behind the driver's rear wheel.

I found a rubber lined cable/pipe strap at Home Depot that was a good fit and just put 1 bolt through the same hole as the original roll over valve. The rubber lining works perfect to protect the TRL7 and it's just thick enough to provide friction against the fender while keeping the TRL7 away from the fender. I also used spring style hose clamps due to the limited barb length on the TRL7. Even with only 1 bolt holding the strap, the valve has not rotated or budged at all and I have been seriously off roading with it. Although there are 2 hoses coming out of the gas tank, my Jeep's previous owner had already plugged one up, so I just left it that way and used only 1 to the TRL7, with the top end of the TRL7 going to the charcoal canister. The hoses, spring clamps, and pipe strap were all a pretty tight fit, but it all seems to have worked well and I have not noticed any problems. I did pass emissions, but I have no idea how thorough they are.

I bought the same one, installed it in the same place. This part makes life so simple, 1 part will do 2 jobs. Some one said it was only a ROV, its also a check valve. If fuel starts to make its way up the line due to pressure in the tank, the ball inside will be pushed up and it will prevent gas from getting passed it. Simple design put works great.

Orlie
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Unread 04-24-2012, 08:19 PM   #74
billybooster2
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I put the Delorean and the red TLR7 super duper UK thing in. Ive been in 90 degrees, silly hot engine, lots of fuel pressure wanting to get out, no issues... it used to drain , as per a previous note, out of the canister under the left fender.....

I propose that both work and one red one might do!

My two cents that you might pay a penny for...
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Unread 05-13-2012, 06:27 AM   #75
johnson30
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Just found what I think is the solution on another thread:

Liquid check valve, Jeep Part No. J3198666

If you put the part number only into google, you get this as your first hit:
VALVE, Check. for JEEP WRANGLER (1984, 1985, 1986) (J3198666 )

Then go to the website: http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/.../J3198666.html , and there you go.

Click on the "product images", and you'll see both the LCV and the rollover valve. It's number 4 & 5 in the diagram and you can get both for $35.

I just ordered the LCV since I jumped the gun and got the Delorean rollover valve a day ago, but it'll be entertaining to have a Delorean part in this jeep anyway, so no worries.

Hope this helps.
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