Replacements for Liquid Check Valve/Roll Over valve - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 144 Old 08-18-2010, 03:11 PM
hasenpfeffer
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After working on my new-to-me 1981 CJ7 for a while, I found that the liquid check valve was completely missing. One of the tank vent hoses is plugged, and the other routed directly to the roll over valve. I've come up completely empty on a direct replacement liquid check valve.

However, I wanted to let anyone interested know that I think I found a very suitable replacement vent valve that does the work of both, the roll over valve, and the liquid check valve - all in one nice little package. Not only does it do the work of both parts, it's also aluminum, so it shouldn't rust, and is stronger than plastic.

Newton Equipment Tank Vent Valves

Their Motorsport In-Line Valves are two ball valves doing the work of both Jeep vent parts. The company, unfortunately, is based in the U.K. and so it's relatively difficult to get a hold of these valves. I've currently got one TRL7 on order and will see if it's everything I'm hoping and dreaming for. It's going to take a few weeks before I get it. I'll post up again when I get it.

Oh yeah, it's not exactly cheap, just over $90.

The Newton valve seems the best all around replacement, but I'll mention, too, that I did find some other interesting possibilities for these parts.

Racor LG50 or LG100 - Liquid Check Valve possibility
Attwood Fuel Vent Line Surge Protector - Liquid Check Valve possibility
Fuel Vent Check Valve - Cool in-line roll over valve
Fuel Safe Discriminator Valves - Roll Over and Liquid Check Valve possibilities

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post #47 of 144 Old 09-08-2010, 06:55 PM
gmgreen
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The TRL7 would be great if you could find something like it in the states.
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post #48 of 144 Old 09-21-2010, 02:13 PM
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hello Keith I see you sent me a message but I was unable to open it
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post #49 of 144 Old 09-21-2010, 05:51 PM
slong
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Need to find Liquid Check Valve 79 CJ-5

Has anyone found a replacement for a liquid check valve? I am a new Jeep owner and started having a problem with my liquid check valve where gas was pouring out of it. I removed it and in the process damaged my roll over valve. I checked and found Jeep no longer makes either part. I also could not find any used parts. I was told just to plug off one side and run the other to the front. I did this and now I am having problems with gas pouring out of the canaister in the engine compartment and the engine stalling out.

I read this forum and found a roll over valve at delorean.com. I still have been unable to locate a liquid check valve. Any suggestions?
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post #50 of 144 Old 09-21-2010, 06:24 PM
walkerhoundvm
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slong, is there anyway you can rebuild it? That's what I did for mine, on an '81. It's plastic, and aside from a single inport nipple, was intact. I bought a metal nipple replacement at Ace and some two-part epoxy and it seems to be as good as new. I also replaced the roll-over with one from delorean.com as you found.

If you can get it out and take it apart, you'll see there's not much to it...unless you've lost it completely. They appear on eBay every once in a while and go for a pretty penny.
-N
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post #51 of 144 Old 09-21-2010, 10:52 PM
keith460
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hello Keith I see you sent me a message but I was unable to open it
And I think you are a spammer as I never sent you a message.... bye, bye now!

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post #52 of 144 Old 09-22-2010, 03:10 AM
sanddrag
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My 84 is absolutely nothing like any of the above. I don't have this panel, or these large valves.

I have a plastic tank, with two holes in the top approximately 1.25" diameter. In each hole is a rubber grommet and a small plastic check valve with a single barb. They have a fine mesh screen on the part that lives inside the top of the tank. These are tied together with a hoses to a T fitting, the third leg of which goes back to the canister. Then I have the fuel and return lines from the sender, and that's it.

The weird part is, it looks factory. The tank has factory part numbers molded in it. Is this how it was done for some 84s ?
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post #53 of 144 Old 09-22-2010, 05:24 AM
keith460
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My 84 is absolutely nothing like any of the above. I don't have this panel, or these large valves.

The weird part is, it looks factory. The tank has factory part numbers molded in it. Is this how it was done for some 84s ?
What you have is standard for the factory optional 20 gallon fuel tank. Check valves (roll over) are installed in the tank surface and not remotely located like the standard 15 gallon fuel tank which the majority of us CJ owners have.

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post #54 of 144 Old 09-30-2010, 12:39 AM
hasenpfeffer
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Okay, so I finally got my Newton Equipment Tank Vent Valve, model TRL7. Here's a couple pics. I think it's going to work perfectly. I haven't had a chance to install it yet, but it appears to do exactly what I want it to. The second pic shows it unscrewed. There's a little hole in which the two balls described on their website are viewable when you turn the part. I can clearly see a plastic ball, and a metal ball. The size of the barbs and holes all look very close to the original roll over valve. After contacting Fuel Safe directly, they were able to order in a few from Newton Equipment. They put them up on their website for direct sale.



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post #55 of 144 Old 09-30-2010, 03:04 PM
WoodyHD
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Is there any problem with just plugging both of those holes on the tank. I know the starter of this thread asked, but I didn't see anyone answering that. I put a new tank in my '83 cj7 and I figured I'd just plug them. It's not like they're needed to run the jeep as normal. (maybe just carry around 2 vise grips in case) There wouldn't be a problem passing inspection with it like that would there?
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post #56 of 144 Old 09-30-2010, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by WoodyHD View Post
Is there any problem with just plugging both of those holes on the tank. I know the starter of this thread asked, but I didn't see anyone answering that. I put a new tank in my '83 cj7 and I figured I'd just plug them. It's not like they're needed to run the jeep as normal. (maybe just carry around 2 vise grips in case) There wouldn't be a problem passing inspection with it like that would there?
Yes, there is a problem with plugging the vents - the Jeep will likely starve for fuel because the tank will no longer be vented.

"Whether you think you can do something or you think you can't, you are right" - Henry Ford
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post #57 of 144 Old 09-30-2010, 03:39 PM
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Yes, there is a problem with plugging the vents - the Jeep will likely starve for fuel because the tank will no longer be vented.
Due respect, though, Jeff, I've read a vented gas cap solves that problem.
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post #58 of 144 Old 09-30-2010, 03:47 PM
John Strenk
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Well yes it would. My old tank had both vents plugged but I was fortunate my locking gas cap leaked so I had no problems. However it wouold fail Emmision testing in ohio as they check seal on filler cap.


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post #59 of 144 Old 09-30-2010, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
Due respect, though, Jeff, I've read a vented gas cap solves that problem.
I guess you don't live in a state that requires and tests for working sealed gas caps in vehicles that came with them from the factory like I do.

Really, it's a simple problem and inexpensive to solve - the LCV can be effectively eliminated by looping the hoses as high up into the fenderwell as possible so there's no way liquid fuel can pass from the tank to the canister, and the RCV is inexpensive to replace, so why not do it in a way that protects the environment, and keeps the system closed so you don't smell gas fumes around your Jeep.

"Whether you think you can do something or you think you can't, you are right" - Henry Ford
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post #60 of 144 Old 09-30-2010, 05:10 PM
walkerhoundvm
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I guess you don't live in a state that requires and tests for working sealed gas caps in vehicles that came with them from the factory like I do.
No - but I used to, not very far from you (Ithaca)

Now I live in one where as long as you pass a sniff test and pay a couple hundred bucks, it doesn't matter if your headlights, wipers, turn signals, or horn work, you're good to go even without a gas cap!

Quote:
Really, it's a simple problem and inexpensive to solve - the LCV can be effectively eliminated by looping the hoses as high up into the fenderwell as possible so there's no way liquid fuel can pass from the tank to the canister, and the RCV is inexpensive to replace, so why not do it in a way that protects the environment, and keeps the system closed so you don't smell gas fumes around your Jeep.
I agree, and for what it's worth, I spent a week this summer rebuilding my entire vapor control/emissions system to be as much in line with stock as possible. Including new ROV, small parts to rebuild LCV, vapor return lines, hoses, etc, I ran up close to $75.

(BTW, thanks for your door rebuild how-to, that's my current fall project)
-N
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