I did a search and did find a little information, one bit of information was from a members thread in 2005 named "shawnscj" (if you're listening Shawn, please PM me). He mentioned there was a 'special tool' for installing a dipstick tube. If anybody else knows anything about this tool, please enlighten me. (Shawn's last activity was in 2006) I tried the heating of the block and put the tube in the freezer last night, NG. the wood tool I used to tap on the flange broke (tain't funny McGee) I now have a similar tool made out of 1/8" metal, maybe that will hold together. I also plan to emory off some of those two ribs under the flange and with some WD40 maybe I'll have some luck. I was a bit nervous about the torch around the tube hole, visions of exploding oil pans and balls of fire clouded my mind some. But I kept my spirits high, packed the tools away and went in for supper, prepared for battle another day.
Sorry to babble, anybody know of this tool? It will probably work much better than what I'm attempting.
I made mine out of a long piece of iron gas pipe, 3/8" or 1/4" I believe, slotting the end with a cutting wheel to slip around the tube. Drove the tube in with a ball peen hammer. At work now, but this evening I could get some pics as I know I still have it somewhere.
I had the same problem with my dip stick tube it turned out that the tube
you get most places is too big . i broke 3 of them before i got the right one
from Bulltear.com they make parts for AMC motors. Chrysler makes the other
ones and they are just a little to big . I just used a dull punch and it went
right in Check them out you will be Happy with it Good luck
I'm new to forums, but here goes -
I, too, am replacing a dipstick tube on my '79 CJ-5 304 V8. The tube & dipstick I received for the supplier was slightly larger in diameter than the original. I toyed with the idea of drilling out the hole in the block to 11/32" (oil pan removed), but I could not find an extra long drill bit locally. So, instead, I reduced the diameter of the tubing from over 21/64" to slightly less than 11/32" by tapping (working) around the tube with a small hammer on an anvil. I know it was primitive, but it worked. However, the tube was still a little too tight in the engine block for a light press fit, so I'm continuing to look for a proper tool to use to seat the tube all the way into the block - up to the O-ring. This tool would have to shaped like a crowsfoot used on hydraulic tubing swivel nuts, with some sort of a driver handle.
Good Luck to us!
Last edited by ElkHunter; 06-05-2008 at 09:16 PM..
Reason: Info is not up to date.
Years ago, I replaced a dipstick tube in my 401. This was before Bulltear came out with the better fitting tubes.
After trying to tap the new tube into the block, by hitting on the bulge of the tube with a wrench and hammer, I cracked the bulge. The bulge is thinner than the rest of the tube, because it's stamped into the tube, thus making it thinner.
I wanted to get the job done, so I tig welded the cracked bulge, then welded a piece of tube above the bulge, to reinforce the area, and give me something solid to hit upon...
Then, I made this tool...
It fits on the shoulder of the dipstick tube...
I was able to tap the tube in from up above, near the master cylinder, vs. lying on the floor. It worked like a dream!
When I had the bulge about 1/2" away from bottoming onto the block, I ran a smear of Permatex #2 non-hardening sealant around the rest of the tube to be tapped in.
Here's a pic of the tube installed...
I've used the tool several times, since...even WITH a Bulltear dipstick tube.
A key factor, when installing a new tube is making sure that you start inserting the tube into the block with the curves of the tube in the right orientation. You want the final result so that the dipstick will cleanly pass through the opening in the oil pan windage tray. This is VERY IMPORTANT, otherwise you will have to try it again....not fun...
I figured I'd add to an already existing thread...
I was able to get the broken portion out fairly easily. I have a new tube from Bulltear. I try starting it oriented the correct way and the steering shaft and my fenderwell headers are making it very difficult. I don't want to try forcing it but I can't even really get my hands on it too solid to put much down pressure on it. Have you guys removed the header or shaft to make it easier? Tomorrow I'll try putting the tube in the freezer for a bit but I'm not too optomistic...
BTW I see the above tool and I think that is beyond my current fab abilities!
I recently replaced mine with the bulltear one. I put it in until the flange started into the hole, then placed a crescent wrench around the top of the flange. Using a piece of metal pipe I had laying around, I placed it onto the wrench and then tapped it a couple of times with a hammer and it went right in. Hope this helps.
I used a crescent wrench as well. Once I got the right approach she went in fairly easily until the first rib. I used the round of a crowbar on top of the wrench and gently tapped it into the second rib. It is sticking out 1/4" and I think I'm going to settle with that for now b/c it's not leaking. Obviously I understand this will adjust my reading 1/4" on the "low" side.
Thanks for the response chosen1608 and I hope my response helps someone else out!
Well I have the same problem! Ordered their dipstick tube on 3/23. Also only seeing "pending status" as of right now. I also emailed him on the email address listed on the payment confirmation - firstname.lastname@example.org with no response. This was also his username on the forum recently but can't find him now on here.
Hopefully he will chime in. Let me know if you hear anything please.
79 CJ7 stock with 258 / MC2150 carb