Renegade Rebuild - Page 8

namredla · 05-31-2009, 09:00 PM

That is one heck of a sustained build mcmud. Just spreading the fun out a little...

Anyway, here is the picture of the interference I was talking about:

I said screw it, pushed everything over a little bit until I was happy with the clearance between the shock and the pipe, and just tacked it all together in place. Then I pulled it all back out and welded it up. Ran out of wire with one weld left!

The tailpipe looks a little bit long in the picture. It is not an illusion, it is probably a good two feet longer that it needs to be right now. I will cut it off when the body goes on.

So, exhaust is done, fuel and brake tubing is all but complete, and I guess I need to send that clutch back that was damaged and get that going. I will be ready for a body here quickly.

**mcmud** · 05-31-2009, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by namredla

That is one heck of a sustained build mcmud. Just spreading the fun out a little....

Fun my ***. Thats a long stretch.
Thanks for being so positive about it though. I was really liking the finish cote you have on the frame, what air pressure did you use applying the Chassis Cote. Looks real good and I know it is a fantastic product.

namredla · 06-01-2009, 08:51 PM

Both the POR15 and the Chassis Coat I applied with a brush. Whatever they do to that coating makes it brush on extremely well. It is self leveling and ends up looking like a powder coat. The POR is a little bit glossier than the chassis coat, but both go on very well. The only coatings that I have shot are the engine enamels (red and black). They go on very poorly with a brush.

Got some wire and made my last weld on the exhaust. I can't seem to find any good gasket material for this application. I picked some up at AZ the other day but it is just too thin I think. I am going to need something with a little bit of give in between the flange on the collector and the flange I just welded on.

I also put the power steering pump back together. I will get it and the alternator on here pretty quick.

I will be busy with other things for the next couple of days. I have to move to a new house (2.5 miles away). I HATE moving, plus I have a garage full of jeep parts! Oh well, I guess this is a good opportunity to get things straightened up and organized.

namredla · 06-09-2009, 07:53 PM

Alright, back in business after a quick move. Moving sucks.

I did get the new clutch in during some of the downtime (again, downtime, funny).

The tranny with the transfer case is heavy. Very heavy. I will do it with help next time.

Everything looked pretty good except for a mouse nest in the bell housing.

It was probably a pretty rude awakening when I drove it that one time down to the gas station (what a wild ride, no real breaks to speak of, throttle would stick, etc.)

The old friction plate looked to be in pretty good shape, but the throw-out bearing was in definate need of replacement.

More to come...

namredla · 06-09-2009, 08:13 PM

I am not going to run the EGR valve, partly because I have a header that does not have a port to run it off of, and I don't feel like hacking and welding on the header with the special ceramic high temp coating! So, a blocking plate was fabricated that will fit over the two holes, keeping both separate.

I also started blocking off TOL's that I won't use (computer feeds)

Most plugs were easy to come by except for the 7/8" port that came off of the exhaust manifold and fed the EGR valve. I spent some time looking but could not find anything to fit the bill.

So, I cut the fitting off of the exhaust manifold tubing and will just weld it shut and reinstall.

I also got the gas tank back in as well as the power steering pump and alternator.

More to come...

**connor0770** · 06-09-2009, 08:24 PM

wow this build is amazing. im learning so much from, it and you make me want to go out and color match my jeep!! keep it up

namredla · 06-10-2009, 08:48 PM

thanks connor, color matching is always a plus in my book.

Well, at least I got my fitting welded closed tonight.

I am contemplating a major fuel supply overhaul. Basically, I plan to come off of the fuel pump with an NPT/AN fitting to some braided hose up to a fuel filter that I will mount on top of the valve cover. From there, 6" of braided hose to a regulator / gauge, and then braided hose to another AN/NPT fitting into the MC2100. I would also cut the compression nub off of the return line, install a fitting and flare the hard piped return and run a braided hose to from the filter back down the firewall and tap the return. I am going to lay it out on a photo and see what people think.

namredla · 06-13-2009, 08:05 PM

Despite spending most of the day at work, I managed to get some stuff done this evening.

The exhaust system is in it's final resting spot, just lacking some type of support for the middle. You will see that the factory location falls about right in the middle of the flowmaster exhaust.

I ended up just cutting three gaskets out of some fairly thin carb gasket material that I already had and tripling it up. That should give it enough flex at the collector.

Also got the steering stabilizer in. It really doesn't seem as "in place" as it should; like it was just kind of thrown on as an afterthought. One thing about the steering stabilizer. The stock stabilizer was coupled to the axle with a stud that was welded to a "shim" that slid under the axle saddle. It always bothered me a little bit that the jeep was not even right out of the factory, as in that the width of the steering stabilizer shim would cause that side of the jeep to be that much lower to the ground. I know it is not much, but it always stuck in the back of my head. So, I took it off.

Tomorrow I need to tie up a few loose ends with the tranny support bushing and torque bushing (at least that's what I'm calling it). I may also finally get the drive shafts back in.

**jatepper** · 06-13-2009, 11:07 PM

Just caught wind of this build threat. Nice work amigo! Subscribed!

namredla · 06-14-2009, 05:49 PM

Got the drive shafts in today. They look pretty good.

The angle from the output shaft of the TC down to the diff is fairly drastic. I hope it does not cause any problems.

I also put ALL the fluids back in. Front and rear diffs, tranny, transfer case, power steering, engine oil. I ended up going with this for the T4 transmission.

I searched all around the forum and found lots of information, but it was inconclusive. I found ten different fluids that were sworn to be the best for the T4 - T5. Hope it works.

trailridin4x4x4 · 06-14-2009, 06:01 PM

royal purple makes a fluid for the t4/t5 trans and it's not max-gear. you need to use there product that works with the brass sychros in your transmission called synchromax by royal purple
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81 cj7,4.0 mpi,t5/dana300 twinsticked,35" mtr's

southtxdstroyer · 06-14-2009, 06:44 PM

hell of a build up man
very impressive
now i have the itch to tear my 7 apart like i have been saying i would for years

**keith460** · 06-14-2009, 07:08 PM

As trailridin4x4x4 said, you need to use Royal Purple Synchromax for the T4/5 transmissions. Available at all Pep Boys and Autozone stores.

trailridin4x4x4 · 06-14-2009, 09:03 PM

and napa autoparts

namredla · 06-14-2009, 09:49 PM

Well, I hate to hear it, but I appreciate the heads up. I threw a picture of the transmission fluid in that last post hoping that I would at least get confirmation one way or the other. I am glad that there are good folks out there who will take the time to keep their fellow JF bretheren in line.

Thanks fellas, out to AZ or NAPA tomorrow to pick up some Synchromax.