Renegade Rebuild - Page 4

NVRDUN · 04-22-2009, 09:19 PM

looks good man keep them coming!

namredla · 04-23-2009, 06:25 AM

Thanks NVRDUN

Here are the new mounts that will go in:

mavdog32 · 04-23-2009, 10:17 AM

hey I am about 2 days behind you, been working all friggin week so not much time in the afternoon to go chunk away at it

namredla · 04-23-2009, 09:04 PM

I hear you mavdog. My mornings start at 4:00 and I get home around 6:00.

Misc coating this evening. Front shock mounts and motor mount brackets.

Hopefully by Sunday it will be time to start the 4" skyjacker lift install

namredla · 04-24-2009, 08:37 PM

Final product:

That thing took some finagling to fit back in. The passenger side is already off, cleaned, prepped, marine cleaned, metal readied, and the first coat of POR is fresh.

namredla · 04-25-2009, 03:55 PM

Drivers side is in:

Maybe start the lift tomorrow. Every single lock washer was broken into three or four pieces when I took these mounts and brackets off. I went back with lock washers on everything except the three bolts (looks like it should be four bolts, I may stick another one in each side) that hold the bottom bracket to the frame. On these I just used a flat waser on each side. The nuts are a little bit different, it seems like they are a type of lock nut as they were tough to turn out and got HOT when I loosened them up.

namredla · 04-28-2009, 08:21 PM

Coating miscellaneous parts can be tedious and I needed something that would be big and noticeable; so I coated the engine block with POR engine enamel. The aluminum valve cover is here and will be coated with red engine enamel before installation. The oil pan will get a fresh coat at some point...

I have removed all of the steering linkage and have tie rods on the way. The front tie rod (drag arm? I don't know the difference) between the pitman arm and the steering knuckle was shot. The rust had started to bloat the bar, and the tie rod ends where shot all the way around. Sway bar and links will come off tomorrow and I will probably coat all of it on Thursday. My plan is to just roll the front axle out from under the frame after I get all of these components off and clean, prep, and paint the axle / differential. Then go back in with everything and the 4" lift on the front. Then I will push it out, turn it around, and do the same thing on the back.

Anybody out there bend their own brake / fuel lines? I would be interested to know any pointers and sizes of lines (right now I think they are all 1/4" and 5/16"). Stainless sounds like it would be a PITA, so I guess we might just go back with some new lengths of carbon steel and new fittings.

namredla · 05-01-2009, 04:43 PM

Took the sway bar and links off and coated everything.

I pushed the front axle out and am prepping it for POR. Will probably coat it tonight and go back in with the lift this weekend.

The easy way to drain your differential:

namredla · 05-01-2009, 06:02 PM

I got antsy and decided to POR the axle.

ChiGuy82 · 05-02-2009, 09:32 AM

Awesome job man! I'm getting some POR15 for my Willys rebuild as well! How much have you already used? How much more do you think you'll use? How much primer did you use?

namredla · 05-02-2009, 08:44 PM

Thanks ChiGuy,

I will end up using all of three quarts, but I am putting two coats of POR15 on everything that I run across. I will end up using two gallons of metal ready and probably one gallon of marine clean.

Got the front lift on today:

Once the bushings for the sway bar assembly and tie rods come in it will be a complete front end!

namredla · 05-03-2009, 04:10 PM

Got quite a bit done today. Loosened up the U-bolts on the front and reset the axle using a tape measure and a torque wrench, cris-crossing the nuts as I tightened. The first time the axle was slightly out of square with the frame. It is awfully close now.

Pulled the back end out:

A couple of the shackle bolts had fused to the metal bushing collars so probably new hardware is needed (you would think that Skyjacker would supply some hardware!!!).

A new toy to install:

Took the old valve cover off just to look at everything, and it looks pretty darn clean to me. I could swear that I read in some thread that there is supposed to be some type of plastic bridge that supports the valve cover. I don't see this here, so maybe this was modified at some point or I am just mistaken:

The rain shut down my rear axle prepping, so I coated the rest of the afternoon:

JoonHoss · 05-04-2009, 09:24 AM

the valve cover bridge studs (or whatever they call them) were eliminated (usually) after a certain year. you likely would remove them anyway to install your new vaolve cover.

keep up the good work

Hoss

namredla · 05-04-2009, 09:34 PM

Thanks Hoss

Here is what I have, I guess these are the valve cover bridge studs:

I assume there is no real trick here to removing these. Nothing is going to jump out of there and hit me in the eye...

I did finally break down and tap the five 5/16" holes in the head for the valve cover. I hear that some guys have three of the five tapped already and sometimes all five are tapped. No such luck for me, I had to do all five.

namredla · 05-05-2009, 08:26 PM

Adventures in rocker arm bridge removal:

The rocker arm shaft bolts were TIGHT, so tight in fact that I worried a little bit about bending the pushrod as the rocker arm twisted with the torque of the wrench. I pulled the pushrods and they are fine but boy were those bolts tight.

I finally got everything out

Note to self, the pivots only go in one way with the lines lining up.

The studded bridge was bent due to the rocker arm twisting (damn tight bolts), good thing the new valve cover came with new bridges.

Got everything back together and torqued the bolts down to 21 ft/lbs as recommended by Haynes. I didn't use any loctite.

Sway bar bushings are in so tomorrow back to the front end reassembly.