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#31 | ||
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just pullin' up a crate in the corner of the garage- keep up the great work!
![]() Hoss
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Don't mind me, I'm just another FNG around here...
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#32 |
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Thanks Hoss!
Well, pulled out the transfer case support pan this afternoon and POR15'd it along with some misc parts that needed it. ![]() I also did a little bit of rework. I tried to unscrew the knob off of the transfer case shifter and it sheared off the bolt at the bottom of the shifter knob. Those things are expensive so I just fixed the one I had. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Good as new!! The plan is to get the frame and block as cleaned up as possible and POR it this weekend. An aluminum valve cover is on it's way from Quadratec. I understand that a couple holes need to be tapped to replace the stock plastic cover? Once the frame is coated we can start the rebuild. First up is the 4" skyjacker lift. |
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#33 |
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This whole thread is killing me!!. Sure wish you lived next door.
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It,s better to be stuck , Than to have chickened out and went home |
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#34 |
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Hockey Rules!
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It's a crap shoot. Some have the holes, others do not. Mine had the holes on the drivers side. Just had to tap them. I did not drill them any deeper like the instructions said. Just used shorter bolts.
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#35 | ||
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Quote:
did mine awhile back- this thread may be of some help http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/new-valve-cover-install-follow-up-400239/ ![]() hoss
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Don't mind me, I'm just another FNG around here...
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#36 |
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That's a good link Hoss, thanks.
Sequence has dictated some coating. In other words, it is pretty darn hard to roll the thing around with a jack stand holding up the transmission, so the T-Case needed coating in order to reinstall the transmission skid pan / support. I also have a Daystar transmission mount to install as well. I should have ordered out a new stabilizer bushing also, but I didn't and I hate to order out for a single $5 item. POR strikes again. ![]() ![]() I continue to be impressed with POR15. I intend to start coating the frame and block tomorrow. |
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#37 |
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Today I got mad at the brake lines and took them off. They were in bad shape anyway and were just making it hard to get a good quality coat on the frame. Ideas were thrown around about possibly bending our own from some SS stock tubing or just to bite the bullet and buy the kit. Anybody bought the brake line kit from Quadratec or Morris? Does it come with EVERYTHING? I also took off the shocks and shock mounts. Cleaned all day long but topped the day off with a dousing of Marine Clean followed up with Metal Ready. The frame is now ready for POR14.
![]() ![]() ![]() Also took off the proportioning valve and cleaned it up (thanks for the inspiration Fatman) ![]() Now I know what you fellow JF rebuilders are thinking; "why does this clown not take it down to a frame and do it the right way". Believe me, if I had the time and space I would do it, but part of keeping a build moving forward is to recognize what your limitations are; be it time, space, talent, knowledge, whatever, and keep the big picture in mind. We have already experienced some significant scope creep on this project (as in it started out with "Do you think we can get it running after sitting in the barn for all those years?"). And it is so very easy to just take that next thing off, or completely rebuild that widget that is bothering you because it doesn't look brand new. One just has to do the best job that is possible within that defined scope of work. By the way, we got the CJ running within 4 hours of pushing it off the trailer (but we couldn't stop there). So, the frame will be coated with POR 15, and for those areas like the motor mounts where some component is bolted to the frame, that area will be coated as well when we pull that motor mount and bracket off for replacement (Daystar mounts). In the end it will all be coated and look good and hopefully run like a champ. Things are really starting to come together. |
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#38 |
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Hockey Rules!
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Been doing some reading on the forum lately regarding pre-bent lines and it looks like the consensus is "inline tube" over "classic tube". I think Quadratec carried Classic Tube. I may buy Inline Tubes fuel lines this week.
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#39 |
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pwa_fcva, I checked out inline's website and they look professional. Talked to the guy on the phone today and he definately knew what he was talking about. I have about decided to give it a go bending my own. I know a pro that can give me a little tutelage. Heck, it would be a good skill to have.
Anybody guess how long it takes to lovingly hand paint a CJ7 frame with POR? About two hours per coat. And my back hurts now. After two coats... The fruits of my labor: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I think it turned out well. The little bits and pieces will be coated as we install the lift and swap out mounts. I will yank the steering box out and give it a good working over as well. Axles and differentials will coat as the lift goes on.
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Build thread Last edited by namredla; 04-20-2009 at 10:16 PM.. |
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#40 |
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Looking good man! Hopefully I'll get my Renegade tore apart and re-do it on down the road. One question, are you going to sand blast any of the parts that you are applying POR-15 to, or did you just sand prep and apply it on with just some sanding?
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#41 |
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The tub was stripped with paint stripper and power washed (and stripped and washed and stripped and washed..) Then treated with Marine Clean and Metal Ready. The frame was hit with a wire wheel on the rusty parts, then all of it was thoroughly cleaned and prepped again with the Marine Clean and Metal Ready. Whatever coating AMC used on the frame is stout stuff. Stripper didn't even touch it. But POR15 states that you can paint over paint, you just don't get some of the chemical bonding that occurs when you apply it over rust. But, I shouldn't need it if the original coating had not failed. The hardest part was the two straight weeks of degreasing that was done to the frame. There are a lot of nooks and crannies.
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#42 |
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Good looking project. Are you going to be topcoating the POR 15 with anything? Im sure you know its not UV resistant so a top coat of some kind is usually a must have.
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1983 CJ7 - Project "Surf Jeep Restoration"
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#43 |
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POR Chassiscoat will go over the POR15 that I put on last night (all of the frame and misc components). Then we have the engine enamel for the engine and new aluminum valve cover. All of the POR15 will be topcoated with the exception of the underside of the tub which should only see sun when the jeep is upside down at the bottom of a hill (or ravine).
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#44 |
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I like your project, i just started mine, theres a link in my sig
keep the good work up makes me want to get some more work done on my cj2a -J-J-,
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Jeep # 1 - 1947 CJ2a - Restoration in progress...very slow progress Jeep # 2 -1983 CJ7 - 31x10.5R15 Pro Comp Extreme mt's - 4.0 HO head - MC2100 Jeep # 3 - 1990 Cherokee - 4.0, AW4, dana 30 HP, dana 35 -31x10.5 R15 mud terrains, 2" PNP lift.....Gone to the crusher Jeep # 4 - 1999 wj stock and still pretty |
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#45 |
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Started the motor mount replacement tonight. Took the drivers side off:
![]() I have a couple of questions though. The ground braid was on this mount and I noticed that it was just bolted through right to the painted surface of the mount. I plan on coating the brackets before I install the new mount and just wondered if it would be a good idea to sand around the bolt hole where the ground braid would attach and not paint this area just to get the best connection that I could. I would do the same to the block. Maybe it doesn't need it and will travel just fine through the bolt? Also, the stock mount has a hook looking affair on one side. I assume this is a safety in case the mount fails. The new Daystar mounts say they are designed to be internally locking so that this will not happen. So no worries on the hooks now I assume. ![]() ![]() ![]() Well, I am off to wash off the metal ready I applied to the brackets. Coat tomorrow.
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