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#16 | |
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Registered User
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This evening I marked out and cut the front fenders for the 35's.
![]() ![]() These are basically the instructions that came with the bushwacker flares. The fenders need a little bit of TLC to fit the flares on right. ![]() ![]() Question for you folks who know. The tranny has some holes in it. They kind of look like they are holes to mount something to, but they are slightly irregular and they have white powder around them. I know that aluminum can powder up like this but I just wanted someone to tell me what these are. I know that there was nothing mounted to these holes when we took the tub off. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Also gearing up for Phase II - mechanical. I am salivating at the prospect. ![]() Blaster 2F not pictured.
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#17 |
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Jeep. There's Only One
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The first photo looks like the top of the bell housing and a hex head bolt is broken, corroded or missing.
Second photo is just corrosion of a non-used cast hole in the trans casing. Third photo can't identify but looks like cast iron corrosion. Fourth and fifth photo are also corroded non-used holes in the trans case.
__________________
. 1984 CJ-7 Renegade __________________ Restoration Thread:http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434226 |
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#18 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#19 |
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Registered User
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Prepped the jeep for POR15. We tried to get it painted today but it really takes quite a while to prep. We also used stripper to get everything we could off of the bottom.
![]() ![]() Had a little extra help ![]() Good paint stripper and a power washer worked pretty well. It seems like the aerosol type stripper worked a little bit better than the gel, brush on type. ![]() Then it was on to the marine clean and metal ready. ![]() ![]() The plan here is to coat the metal that will be below the bushwackers. ![]() Ear plugs for the nuts ![]() ![]() The metal ready brings a slight rust bloom out. As far as I know this is what is supposed to happen. First thing tomorrow, POR15!!! |
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#20 |
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Web Wheeler
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I do like to see a lot of hard work done by someone who will do it this well.
Be certain it's thoroughly dry in all the little tight areas. |
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#21 |
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Thanks mcmud, it is much appreciated.
Well, POR15 went on today. Take a look: ![]() Here we are halfway through the first coat. It lays down really well with a paint brush, somewhat self leveling so you aren't left with a bunch of brush lines. ![]() First coat done. We also did the front fenders and the underside of the hood. ![]() Final coat. ![]() Here is the hood. ![]() And the fenders ![]() And the firewall. We ended up using about 1-1/3 cans (quarts) of POR for the tub, fenders, and hood. We plan on using it on the frame and various parts as well. As with any coating, prep was the crucial step. The final product is a fairly smooth, almost rubberized coating. Considering just trailering the body parts in to Macco for a paint job. Anybody ever use them for a jeep? I just don't see a need to spend a bunch of money to paint this thing, but enough work is going into it that I don't want to rattle can it either. |
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#22 |
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Registered User
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Considering the amount of work you have done to the tub (which is excellent btw) you should have no problem prepping your parts for painting. If you do the priming and sanding and get it ready for someone like Macco to paint it, it should not cost much at all. After all, the only thing they have to do is lay on the coats of paint and clear coat and let it cure. I would get everything you need painted ready and take it all at one time. This will save you time, money, and ensure uniformity in the paint color.
Looks great man! I will keep following this thread for sure. |
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#23 |
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Sorry it took so long to get back to you..
soa vs sua is kind of a personal preference, want vs necessity thing, i suggested the tj flares cause they're a little more "open" than cj flares and will allow bigger tires, or less rubbing, but at the cost of trimming the tub
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-Blake- |
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#24 |
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Newest goodie:
![]() MC2100 1.08 |
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#25 |
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Registered User
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Nice job so far. Looks good. As far as paint, IMO, keep it old school with the Renegade decals with whatever color you decide to go. Can't wait to see the outcome. Have fun!
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#26 |
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Registered User
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I watched the tub drive off on the back of a trailer last night. Still a little bit of body work to do, just bondo and finish work. Then it will be off to Macco for a single stage poly paint job. In the mean time, it's phase 2 time. So I siphoned off the gas in the tank and dropped the tank and the tow bar.
![]() The tangle of vacuum hoses on the engine was just ugly, so it was time for them to go. My plan is to only run the break booster, timing advance, and PCV. I am going to do away with the rest including the cannister. Here are the before pics: ![]() ![]() What a tangled mess. Here are the after pics: ![]() ![]() Still have to take off the intake and the exhaust manifold. Going back on with a heddman header and stock intake. Then clean up and paint everything with some of POR's engine paint. Should look good. |
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#27 |
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Registered User
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More disassembly and degreasing.
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#28 |
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Registered User
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I have a broken plate on top of the transmission. There is a crack in the metal that runs on the front side of the collar. I looked around for a replacement part on the net but nobody seems to carry one. I may just pull it off and try to weld it back.
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#29 |
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Haulin' Groceries
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Nice build. Im interested to see how the paint turned out from maaco.
Brian
__________________
Black wont get you back, but Chrome WILL get you home. 1990 XJ Part Outhttp://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/90-xj-part-out-2-door-ax15-1301969/ 1978 CJ5Being built 1996 4 Door XJ My DD - Now Parting out |
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#30 |
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Registered User
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When I removed the wiring harness from the engine I tagged all of the electrical connections and took a picture both for my future reference and to figure out what a few of them were. Here is a link to the thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/pics-list-engine-connections-751324/ And another one that is pretty helpful: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm |
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