[namredla]

Time for some long overdue pictures of the body in the midst of the painting process. For the most part, the body was taken down to bare metal when the bodywork was performed (other than the interior which will be Raptored). First stage was an epoxy primer, then several coats of urethane primer (this is what you see in the pics). A two stage final coat of urethane and then clearcoat will finish off the project. Looks pretty darn good for non-painters in a home-made paint hooch.

[namredla]

I figured that Jeephammer's suggestion about adding the diode to the excite wire on the alternator was a good idea (prevents run-on). Even though I don't know whether this is a problem or not, I figure that it can't hurt. Plus, any excuse to solder is a good excuse for me. I know, I know...

Here is what I picked up at Radio Shack for a whopping $5.35 (less the alternator connection)





Here is my solder job. Basically I just fanned the wires out around the solid wire of the diode and soldered it. One, I hope it will hold although it felt pretty sturdy to me and did not pull out. Two, I hope that soldering that close to the diode did not damage it in any way. Any way to test it to make sure it is functioning properly?



A little bit of heat shrink tape



I am practicing up for the painless wiring harness in my near future.

[VACJ7]

Originally Posted by namredla

Just catching up on your build progress.... looks great!

I noticed you are using that thin gasket between the MC2100 and adapter plate. There is a thicker one (~ 3/8") you can get for about 4.00 and works much better. I had nothing but trouble trying to seal vac leaks with that thin one.

If you have not buttoned up the gas tank yet you also might want to swap out the plastic float for a brass one. I think I have a part number or link if you want. Believe it was from a Chevy Nova.

[CETME]

Dang, I love this thread.

[namredla]

pwa_fcva, I was disappointed with the thin gasket, but it was all I had. I would be willing to pull it all back off and go with a thicker one if it will keep me out of trouble come first fire. Is it a particular gasket that I could buy from AZ or Orielly's, or would it be easier to just get some gasket material and cut my own?

If you have a link for the float I would be interested. It would be a bit easier to change out now...

Did you put any silicone on or around your fuel tank sender? Also, what flavor silicone did you use on your carb install?

[kscott01]

To test a diode, us a multimeter set on resistance (ohms). With the leads touching each side, it should read Zero and beep. Flip the leads, and it should say "OL" or open line.

Just read your eleven pages straight. You motivate me!

[sgtbookie]

Ok, I got sucked in like kscott above. Great build thread. You definitely are inspiring a few new projects for me.

[VACJ7]

Originally Posted by namredla

pwa_fcva, I was disappointed with the thin gasket, but it was all I had. I would be willing to pull it all back off and go with a thicker one if it will keep me out of trouble come first fire. Is it a particular gasket that I could buy from AZ or Orielly's, or would it be easier to just get some gasket material and cut my own?

If you have a link for the float I would be interested. It would be a bit easier to change out now...

Did you put any silicone on or around your fuel tank sender? Also, what flavor silicone did you use on your carb install?

Here is the float. You could probably get one at AZ.

Here is the carb gasket at AZ. If the link does not work it is for a 1974 Ford Truck E100 1/2 ton Van 5.0L 2BL OHV 8cyl.

I did not use any silicone gasket sealer on either the carb or gas tank. Don't think it is necessary.

[NWA_CJ7]

What is the purpose in changing the float????

[Jameslol]

Man i love this build, always liked the look of the renegades. Are you planning on doing the renegade scheme down the body again? or solid color?

Just read all 11 pages, cant wait to see it all done

[namredla]

The diode tested out OK. Not exactly like you describe but identical to the other diode that came in the two-pack from Radio Shack, so I am happy. Thanks kscott01.

pwa_fcva, a trip to AZ is in my future for tomorrow afternoon for the gasket and the float.

NWA_CJ7, look at page 10 (I think), you will see the sending unit that I pulled out of the tank. It is a rusted mass and the float is full of gas. When the little metal "fingers" that held the plastic float rusted, it rusted a hole into the float. The brass one will not have this problem, and getting back in to the tank once the body is on and buttoned up would be a major hassle.

Jameslol, I don't know what the plan is yet for the decals. I am actually a little bit partial to the older school renegade stickers such as this:



But, like I said, the decals are undecided. It might be kind of funny to stick a RUBICON sticker on the hood of an 83 CJ. Probably some kind of blasphemy...

To all the rest who looked and commented, it is much appreciated. Sometimes this type of work can get tedious and frustrating and it is good to know that people are looking.

As for me, I am just coating a few misc. bits and pieces that need coating before the body goes back on.

[aaron2874]

Oh yes... I check this thread daily. It's a great project and your doing a really fine job.

[sgtbookie]

I agree on the older Renegade sticker packages, really good looking. Thought of playing poser Renegade on mine.

[namredla]

This is probably the absolute last of the coating that I will need to do (at least as far as POR goes. The body will be on SOON.







I took the steering and pedal assemblies apart so long ago I really don't remember how it went in. Same goes for the two "brackets" that were attached to the rear-most body mount bolts. Oh well, surely it can only go in one way...

[namredla]

The day has arrived. Here are some shots of the freshly painted body:















Prep for Raptor tonight, Raptor tomorrow night, and I should be dropping on the chassis by Saturday.