Renegade Rebuild - Page 10

namredla · 06-18-2009, 09:32 PM

Hoss,

It is the little metal T that allows me to go from a backward pull (which I think is the stock method although I took most of that apart fairly early and don't really remember what it looked like) to a downward pull which is what I understand is the preferred method for the MC2100 with a 258. Although I have read that the throttle cable off of a 306 engine will hook right up as direct pull. I read a lot of posts about issues with throttle linkage and I am dreading getting this one hooked up. I didn't take any good pictures of it and don't really remember how it worked. The early days of disassembly are a little bit foggy now.

I guess that is why there is a Jeep Forum...

namredla · 06-20-2009, 01:01 PM

Installed the Warn front bumper, winch plate, and winch this morning. The bumper went on fairly easily although I found a couple of issues with the general fit-up. It really needed about 3/8" worth of shimming either up, down, or split the difference to make it tight. The winch plate was the real bear. If there is an opportunity to install this prior to the steering box, then take it. Otherwise you will spend an hour tring to get a washer, lock washer, and nut onto the bolt that secures the winch plate mounting brackets. There is also just a general order of operations that are not spelled out (the directions left a little to be desired). I ended up taking the winch back off the winch plate in order to get the fairlead installed.

All in all, not too bad. Looks good.

Have a few misc parts to put in. New fill lines for the tank, a new sending unit, and a new transmission boot (hopefully this one will keep the mice out). I am going to go out on a limb and say that I might have a body on this thing in a week and a half. Maybe.

namredla · 06-24-2009, 08:46 PM

Well, while the body is nearing completion, I have embarked on another upgrade; fuel delivery. From what I have read, the MC2100 needs to have the fuel pressure regulated at 3-3.5 psi. So, I figured I would at the least have to get a regulator and gauge. But if I am going to have to do that, then I might as well go back with braided SS hose and aluminum fittings. I got some -6AN braided SS hose from Jegs as well as the low pressure Holley regulator and an in-line filter.

I have been playing around with a couple of different configurations. One would be to mount the regulator so that the line in is coming directly up from the fuel pump with the filter in between like this:

Another possibility would be to mount the whole shabang on top of the valve cover and make an "S" type shape out of the filter and regulator like this:

The first one would be simpler but could lead to the filter banging around on engine components. Anybody have any good reasons for doing it a certain way? How hot will that valve cover get?

I am also at a loss as to what type of fitting (it would be -6AN to ?) that fits in the fuel inlet in the MC2100:

I also put the HVAC ductwork back together, greased, and siliconed.

namredla · 06-27-2009, 06:51 PM

Big changes today.

Before:

After:

Picked up the wheels and tires today. Quite a difference.

**CJeep** · 06-28-2009, 07:59 AM

Looks good.

I may be in the minority, but after having a bear of a time with vapor lock on my last CJ, I'm all about staying away from running fuel lines (and regulator, etc.) right on top of the valve cover. On my last MPI CJ, I had to run the line under the radiator, and back up to the fuel rail. Which is how the Hesco/Mopar instructions said to do it, but the PO had installed it with the shortcut over the engine.

I see you are running a carb, but still, I'd keep all of that stuff away from the heat of the engine as much as possible.

namredla · 06-28-2009, 09:42 AM

CJeep, others have said the same thing and that remains my concern. Another option I was looking at was to maybe fabricate the mounting bracket for all of this into a type of heat shield. I don't know if it would really make any difference or not but it might keep some of the heat off of it. How hot will that get on top of the valve cover? Isn't that the original stock location for the filter / line?

Anybody else have any mounting suggestions / locations?

**Tigger01** · 06-28-2009, 10:14 AM

Looks great was thinking of going with 35s on mine but

Just don't know if once the body , wind shield frame and roll bar installed

It will fit in a standard Garage door measured it and I have 82 inches

I do have room to put in an 8 ft opening but thats $$$$$$$$$$$ again

but might have to go with 33s

any one else have this problem

Tigger

namredla · 06-28-2009, 04:24 PM

Tigger, I don't think that it will end up fitting in the garage with the rollbar and windshield up. But, we can deal with that

I realized that I had never taken care of the bellcrank bracket due to the 1" body lift that will go on. Here is my solution to the bracket. I will need to lengthen the linkage a little bit as well but I may make it adjustable like some others here on the JF have done.

Bracket

I cut this piece out trying to retain some of the lateral support that the original bracket had

You can see how this fits up the the bracket. I beveled the edges to make sure that I got penetration with the mig. This is fairly thick metal to be welding with my setup (1/4").

Now I just need to clean it up and start on something for the linkage.

namredla · 06-28-2009, 06:03 PM

Glad I changed this one out before the body was put on

namredla · 06-29-2009, 08:37 PM

Did a little bit of fabrication this evening. I am planning on mounting the pressure regulator and gauge on top of the valve cover but more toward the distributor side of the engine. So I formulated a plan and drew up a couple of pieces.

Cut them out with the trusty angle grinder

This is what I am going for

Enter the mig

A little bit of weld clean up

And here is what the final product will look like. I plan to coat it with some black velvet.

I am hoping that it will not catch as much heat on this side as opposed to sitting more over the manifolds. I think it will add a nice clean look to the engine compartment with some braided hose.

**USMCredneck** · 06-30-2009, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by namredla

I am also at a loss as to what type of fitting (it would be -6AN to ?) that fits in the fuel inlet in the MC2100:

I believe mine was a 1/4" NPT.

Looking good so far.

namredla · 07-02-2009, 09:39 PM

USMC, you are absolutely correct, it is indeed a 1/4" NPT. I had lived in flared tube nut land for so long that the ID vs OD confused me... which is sad.

Here is my first attempt at braided line and hose ends. And a good look at my regulator mount...

namredla · 07-03-2009, 02:51 PM

I ended up having to reconfigure a little bit, but here is the final product:

imtheant · 07-03-2009, 05:24 PM

Man that thing is looking good man! Question, where are you running that other crankcase breather to on the carb??

namredla · 07-03-2009, 09:06 PM

Thanks imtheant, I need to get the body on!!

The crankcase breather that I have on there right now is filtered, so I don't know that I necessarily need to run it to anything. But my original plan (and I still may do this) is to run it to a port on my carb that will draw filtered air. Here is a pic of the nozzle in question.

I will probably end up running this just so I don't have to worry about the filter in the breather clogging up.

07-03-2009, 05:24 PM	#149
imtheant Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 590 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Man that thing is looking good man! Question, where are you running that other crankcase breather to on the carb?? __________________ 1983 CJ7 - Project "Surf Jeep Restoration"